algae eating fish
- Thread starter helpme74
- Start date
promisetbg
Active Member
Instead of looking for a fish to eat the algae{they will eat it if it's short..not long} look at why the algae is there. Most likely high phosphates{PO4}. Manual removal of the algae, water changes with RODI water with 0 TDS , and possibly some phosphate remover or a phosphate removing pad will go alot further in helping with the problem than a fish. It could be that the bulbs in your lighting are overdue to be replaced. It could be overstocking, not enough clean-up crew. or over-feeding. Another fish is just going to add more detritus, and add to the bio-load{problem}.
merredeth
Active Member
If your tank can handle it and your fish are can handle the foxface I highly recommend them to get rid of hair algae.
However, your problem is not solved really when you think about it. You need to figure out what is causing the problem. Old lights, lights on too long, phosphates... you get the picture, right?
Denise M.
However, your problem is not solved really when you think about it. You need to figure out what is causing the problem. Old lights, lights on too long, phosphates... you get the picture, right?
Denise M.
120reefer
Member
Whoa... 13 hour light cycle is most likely the problem for the algae bloom. Try cutting back to 8 hours or so and see if that helps. I would also look at your clean up crew and check your PO4. My scarlets did an awsome job on a patch of hair algae on the sand bed, and my photogenic period is down to 1hour actinic, then 6 hour halides, then 1 hour actinic, then moonlights, and PO4 reads out zero, and hardly any signs of hair algae
isistius
Active Member
your phosphates may read zero because the diatoms or algae are sucking it up faster than you can read them. i had (and still battling) this same problem. definately cut back on the photoperiod. icut mine back from 12 hrs to about 7. also, using a phosphate sponge works well. make sure you're using ro or ro/di water for water changes and topoffs. DO NOT USE TAP WATER!!!!! if all else fails you can use boyd's chemiclean. great stuff. expensive for 2 grams, but well worth it if the problem is out of hand.
murph
Active Member
Originally Posted by helpme74
it's a new tank no fish in tank just water lr and 13 hours of light
New tank means various algae outbreaks of various types. Certainly not time to panic or take any overly aggressive attempts at solving the problem. If tank is cycle add your cleanup crew. Hermits and snails for the most part.
The following weak add a kole tang. A ravenous apatite for all types of algae and a mouth perfectly suited for scraping those algae off of surfaces includeing your glass. This fishes diet is not algae exclusive like some of the other suggestions so as algae disappears from tank other prepared foods will continue to sustain it.
Tangs are notorious for parasite problems so after a few weeks of no apparent problems with your kole you are free to add the rest of your fish after a QT period.
it's a new tank no fish in tank just water lr and 13 hours of light
New tank means various algae outbreaks of various types. Certainly not time to panic or take any overly aggressive attempts at solving the problem. If tank is cycle add your cleanup crew. Hermits and snails for the most part.
The following weak add a kole tang. A ravenous apatite for all types of algae and a mouth perfectly suited for scraping those algae off of surfaces includeing your glass. This fishes diet is not algae exclusive like some of the other suggestions so as algae disappears from tank other prepared foods will continue to sustain it.
Tangs are notorious for parasite problems so after a few weeks of no apparent problems with your kole you are free to add the rest of your fish after a QT period.
promisetbg
Active Member
Never put a tang into a new unstable system.
murph
Active Member
If the tank is cycled you are fine adding the tang. Especially the hardier species and IMO if you are to have them they should be one of the first additions so that they can become established and well nourished in your care prior to other additions that despite your best efforts can introduce parasites to the system. These parasites can be introduced to the tank even by adding a few pieces of LR down the road. Its almost inevitable.
Established well nourished tangs stand a far better chance of warding off parasitic infections and do quite poorly in cramped QT situations which will be required if added as one fo the last additions. Go ahead and add him.
Established well nourished tangs stand a far better chance of warding off parasitic infections and do quite poorly in cramped QT situations which will be required if added as one fo the last additions. Go ahead and add him.