golgi aparatus
Member
bump..anyone have input on my lighting cycle situation?
Algae indentification
- Thread starter golgi aparatus
- Start date
saltn00b
Active Member
hmm the 2 6ks and and 2 actinics, your tank must seem on the more reddish side, no?
have you had these from the beginning? if you just switched over to T-5 your tank is bound to have a little "light cycle" as it adjusts to the new lighting.
you dont want more than 10 hours normally, and since you are trying to fight the cyano you can cut back temporarily. it is also ok to run without lights for three days (even in a reef tank) every once in a while (simulating cloud cover) which will severely impede unwanted algal growth.
the single best way to combat cyano is increased flow. what is yours at now? you want to be generally at least 10x tank volume in GPH turn over, all the way up to 30X + if you are planning on SPS. this combined with manual removal with a turkey baster, shortening photo period and reducing feeding (check frozen foods for phosphate content) you are good to go. what is your PO4 at now?
have you had these from the beginning? if you just switched over to T-5 your tank is bound to have a little "light cycle" as it adjusts to the new lighting.
you dont want more than 10 hours normally, and since you are trying to fight the cyano you can cut back temporarily. it is also ok to run without lights for three days (even in a reef tank) every once in a while (simulating cloud cover) which will severely impede unwanted algal growth.
the single best way to combat cyano is increased flow. what is yours at now? you want to be generally at least 10x tank volume in GPH turn over, all the way up to 30X + if you are planning on SPS. this combined with manual removal with a turkey baster, shortening photo period and reducing feeding (check frozen foods for phosphate content) you are good to go. what is your PO4 at now?
golgi aparatus
Member
Before I respond to your other comments, let me first edit my above statement to be perfectly accurate:
I have the following combo of bulbs in my TEK kit:
1 x PowerChrome, Midday
T5 Lamps by Giesemann
1 x PowerChrome, Pure Actinic
T5 Lamps by Giesemann*
1 x PowerChrome, Aqua Blue+
T5 Lamps by Giesemann (60% Actinic / 40% white)
1 x Hagen GLO Blue
I know it seems like I have too much blue, but I really don't like the yellow spectum that the Gieseman Midday bulb gives me.
I love the overall color of the tank with this combo...
please give me some feedback!
I have the following combo of bulbs in my TEK kit:
1 x PowerChrome, Midday
T5 Lamps by Giesemann
1 x PowerChrome, Pure Actinic
T5 Lamps by Giesemann*
1 x PowerChrome, Aqua Blue+
T5 Lamps by Giesemann (60% Actinic / 40% white)
1 x Hagen GLO Blue
I know it seems like I have too much blue, but I really don't like the yellow spectum that the Gieseman Midday bulb gives me.
I love the overall color of the tank with this combo...
please give me some feedback!
golgi aparatus
Member
Here are the PAR values of the Geismans:
Midday 325
Aquablue 324
Pure Actinic 157
So I have a total PAR of the 3 Geismans of : 806
How does that stand up? (Assuming that the HAGEN Glo bulb has an average PAR)
Midday 325
Aquablue 324
Pure Actinic 157
So I have a total PAR of the 3 Geismans of : 806
How does that stand up? (Assuming that the HAGEN Glo bulb has an average PAR)
saltn00b
Active Member
lol PAR is different then K. K is Kelvin and is the "color temperature" 20k being blue, 12k white, 10k yellow 6500 k getting into the reds...
the mixing of these will give you different effects on your tanks look.
PAR is a good thing to know, it is really the standardizing factor across all lighting fixtures. its what really matters as it stands for something along the lines of Photosynthetically Available Radiation. or basically what organisms can use for photosynthesis. the beauty of T-5 is that because they are so narrow, they can be individually reflected, and in turn effectively triple their PAR rating. you have a TEK so i assume it is individually reflected bulbs.
the mixing of these will give you different effects on your tanks look.
PAR is a good thing to know, it is really the standardizing factor across all lighting fixtures. its what really matters as it stands for something along the lines of Photosynthetically Available Radiation. or basically what organisms can use for photosynthesis. the beauty of T-5 is that because they are so narrow, they can be individually reflected, and in turn effectively triple their PAR rating. you have a TEK so i assume it is individually reflected bulbs.
golgi aparatus
Member
Man, I kinda feel like an idiot!
I'm just really getting into the specifics as far as lighting is involved. I'm in the beginning of the process of going from a FO to a Reef. Please bear with me!
So what you are telling me is that the K value basically is a personal preferance based on color and that PAR is the important factor for coral growth?
I'm just really getting into the specifics as far as lighting is involved. I'm in the beginning of the process of going from a FO to a Reef. Please bear with me!
So what you are telling me is that the K value basically is a personal preferance based on color and that PAR is the important factor for coral growth?
saltn00b
Active Member
yes, PAR is the main thing to really compare lighting systems, and is why MH and T-5 are the best for coral because they have the highest PAR.
you dont even need actinic bulbs at all, they are just supplemental and bring out nice colors. same may make arguments that it stimulated certain floruscing pigments and what not, but you can have a reef with no actinics and be fine.
you dont even need actinic bulbs at all, they are just supplemental and bring out nice colors. same may make arguments that it stimulated certain floruscing pigments and what not, but you can have a reef with no actinics and be fine.
golgi aparatus
Member
OK, well I"m a bit confused now because I looked at the Geisman Midday bumb I have and it is a 6000K bulb. It puts out a very strong yellow color.
I thought yellow was 10K?
By the way, I LOVE the blue that some actinics put out. I did not know that the Geisman True Actinic was a "true" actinic as it is purple in color. I added another actinc blue to make the water more of a bluish tint.
Do you think my current setup has enough PAR to grow softies and zoos and the like?
If not what type of bulb do you think I need to suppliment my setup?
I thought yellow was 10K?
By the way, I LOVE the blue that some actinics put out. I did not know that the Geisman True Actinic was a "true" actinic as it is purple in color. I added another actinc blue to make the water more of a bluish tint.
Do you think my current setup has enough PAR to grow softies and zoos and the like?
If not what type of bulb do you think I need to suppliment my setup?
kingfish8302
Member
Originally Posted by NigerBang
Coraline can be different colors...I have Purple, Red, Orange, a tad of green..Stioll not sure if thats what it is though..
Right now i have purple, lime green, three different reds, and blue'ish gray all on the same rock. Its crazy what colors coraline can be.
Coraline can be different colors...I have Purple, Red, Orange, a tad of green..Stioll not sure if thats what it is though..
Right now i have purple, lime green, three different reds, and blue'ish gray all on the same rock. Its crazy what colors coraline can be.
saltn00b
Active Member
golgi i think you are stressing about this for no reason
you have a Tek T-5 , a great choice. you dont really need to get into the par value emitted by each bulb. I am assuming your rig has each bulb individually reflected, not one big reflector behind them all. that being the case, as i said, the reflectors will triple your PAR value, making normally decent flourecent bulbs extraordinarally powerful. 4 bulbs over 55 is great, and you can probably house anything you want (lightwise) however 5, or 6 would be exceptional.
as for the Ks, different companys may have some differences in what color something is visually and the K value. 6500 and 6000 should be orange / red. 10k has a yellow tint to it, but this is just a general rule of thumb and will differ from bulb to bulb.
you have a Tek T-5 , a great choice. you dont really need to get into the par value emitted by each bulb. I am assuming your rig has each bulb individually reflected, not one big reflector behind them all. that being the case, as i said, the reflectors will triple your PAR value, making normally decent flourecent bulbs extraordinarally powerful. 4 bulbs over 55 is great, and you can probably house anything you want (lightwise) however 5, or 6 would be exceptional.
as for the Ks, different companys may have some differences in what color something is visually and the K value. 6500 and 6000 should be orange / red. 10k has a yellow tint to it, but this is just a general rule of thumb and will differ from bulb to bulb.
golgi aparatus
Member
Thanks for the response. I know I may be getting a bit caught up in this stuff. It can be a bit overwhelming at times!
I do infact have the retro fit kit with individual reflectors. My canopy just BARELY fits the 4 bulbs. It could not fit anymore.
I'm just a bit anxious as I am venturing out of my comfort zone and into beginning reefing. We'll see how it goes!!
I do infact have the retro fit kit with individual reflectors. My canopy just BARELY fits the 4 bulbs. It could not fit anymore.
I'm just a bit anxious as I am venturing out of my comfort zone and into beginning reefing. We'll see how it goes!!
golgi aparatus
Member
I wanted to update the images of the green , what I hope is, coralline growth in my tank. I went away for the weekend to catch a couple of Widespread Panic shows and when I got home....boom, this algea had spread like crazy!
Let me know what you guys think:
Let me know what you guys think:
golgi aparatus
Member
It really is amazing how quickly corraline can grow! This is the first time I have ever had such a bloom of the stuff. It is pretty cool to watch for sure. You are my official mentor SaltNoob! Like it or not...
golgi aparatus
Member
Well, I have let my tank sit with the lights off for 48 hours due to the fact that people think the purple algae on the one rock may be cyano. I'll post some images of the rocks tonight when I get home. I just wanted to be sure that only the macro algae is growing and not the micro.
One question, what does the coralline algae feel like to the touch? Can you scrape it off of a rock with your fingernail like the other stuff? I am able to scratch the green coralline algae off the rock. I just was not sure if I should be able to do so.
One question, what does the coralline algae feel like to the touch? Can you scrape it off of a rock with your fingernail like the other stuff? I am able to scratch the green coralline algae off the rock. I just was not sure if I should be able to do so.
saltn00b
Active Member
you might be able to scratch it off, it usually very hard and just a coloration. almost no difference in feel from the rock itself. it will grow on your glass eventually and it will take a bit of elbow grease to scrub it off.
i forgot to tell you a trick. when you have a new tank and a rock that has SOME corraline on it, you can take a dedicated tooth brush and gently brush the coralline that you have underwater and let it get into the water column. do this every night for a week. pick up the rock towards the surface, and shut off your pumps for an hour.
i forgot to tell you a trick. when you have a new tank and a rock that has SOME corraline on it, you can take a dedicated tooth brush and gently brush the coralline that you have underwater and let it get into the water column. do this every night for a week. pick up the rock towards the surface, and shut off your pumps for an hour.
golgi aparatus
Member
Awesome, so scrub with a toothbrush and leave the pump off for an hour. I can do that. I guess this encourages the spreading of the coralline , huh?
I'll give that a shot tonight and see what I can do!
By the way Noob, how do you go about getting carbonate/calcium/kalkwasser into your tank? I am considering setting up some sort of drip system with the top off water.
I have read to switch off between mixing top off water with kalkwasser/calcium additive/carbonate hardness. IE: one week mix top off water with one, next week another and so on.
What are your thoughts?
I'm letting my tank mature now, but am preparing to have some softies, zoos that sort of thing.
I'll give that a shot tonight and see what I can do!
By the way Noob, how do you go about getting carbonate/calcium/kalkwasser into your tank? I am considering setting up some sort of drip system with the top off water.
I have read to switch off between mixing top off water with kalkwasser/calcium additive/carbonate hardness. IE: one week mix top off water with one, next week another and so on.
What are your thoughts?
I'm letting my tank mature now, but am preparing to have some softies, zoos that sort of thing.
saltn00b
Active Member
getting a good understanding of alkalinity and calcium is a good thing for you to do, but you dont really need to worry about it untill you start putting LPS and SPS corals in your tank. if you are not going to have any then dont stress about it because calcium is a none issue and alkalinty will stay pretty constant and be replenished with water changes. the more calcerous skeleton corals you have , the faster both will be absorbed. in which case, yes an auto-top off unit is pretty awesome to have hooked up with a kalkwasser-drip. it is something i plan on adding to my set up soon. less involved methods include using additives and testing for them like purple up or two part calcium systems, or kent marine supermarine buffer... and more involved methods would be employing the use of a calcium reactor which can be very costly.
if you are doing only softies i really woulnd bother calcium at all, and just use a buffer like kent super buffer to keep alkalinity in check once in a while. ALWAYS test and test often with quality tests like salifert. when dosing these, you need to pay close attention to pH, Alkalinity and Calcium at the same time as they are closely linked.
if you are doing only softies i really woulnd bother calcium at all, and just use a buffer like kent super buffer to keep alkalinity in check once in a while. ALWAYS test and test often with quality tests like salifert. when dosing these, you need to pay close attention to pH, Alkalinity and Calcium at the same time as they are closely linked.