Algae problem

thang45

Member
I have the following algae:
Cyano
Film Algae
Blue Green Cyano
Dinoflagellates
I read on this forum to stop feeding too much and start using phosphate remover in order to control the algae.
What does it mean stop feeding the corals as well? or just fish?
I have cheato in my sump and my nitrate is 0, I have no clue about the phosphate becuase I don't have a test kit.
How do you guys get rid of those algae?
 

truperc

Member
Originally Posted by thang45
http:///forum/post/3060198
I have no clue about the phosphate becuase I don't have a test kit.

As far as how to get rid of it.
How long are your lights on? How much are you feeding?
If you want invert to help
Strombus sp.
 

soulsigma

Member
To understand how to get rid of unwanted algae it is necessary to first understand exactly what algae are? Algae are the simplest forms of plant life on the planet and have been around in one form or another for over 200 million years. Micro algae are the single celled type that can only be determined by a microscope and a good reference guide. Macro algae are the larger types of algae that to the casual observer resemble terrestrial plants. Actually these plants are really only slightly more advanced than the micro algaes in that they have defined structures such as stolons for attachment and petioles that resemble leaves. Since these plants are so primitive it makes it difficult to completely eradicate them, even when none are seen there is still enough material present so that when conditions are right the algae will grow again rapidly.
For those of you keeping Caulerpa you may be asking yourself why should I get rid of my Caulerpa since it looks so nice in my aquarium. First it is not natural for macro algaes to be growing around corals, as for the most part algaes are restricted to the turf zone or lagoon in most instances and are not part of the reef itself. This is because in these areas the grazers usually keep their growth in check. In addition, the corals are actually harmed by algae in that the algae will eventually overgrow the coral and the algae's holdfasts can bore into soft corals. The algae may also produce compounds or antibiotic like substances that inhibit coral growth. Also for those of you that have viewed some of the public aquaria housing algae you will have noticed that the water is yellow. This is also a result of substances produced by the algae and this reduces the amount of light that can penetrate the water that further inhibits the coral's ability to thrive. It is my opinion that a reef tank will be much more successful long term when most algae are kept to a minimum or when they are kept out of the main display tank and housed in a refugium. More hobbyists have probably left reef keeping due to algae problems than for any other reason.
Now hopefully you are dissuaded from trying to keep algae in your aquarium you are now wondering how to get rid of it. The best way to get rid of algae is to limit it from the start. That is, from when you first get your live rock you should start trying to limit the conditions that enhance algae growth. If your tank is already set up this situation will be discussed below. Getting rid of and controlling algae first requires understanding what makes it grow. Algae require certain nutrients to thrive. The predominant nutrients are nitrate and phosphate. These nutrients are the result of the processes of metabolism and decomposition, but can also be found in some salt mixes as well as tap water. Care should be taken when choosing a salt so that it does not contain either phosphate or nitrate. In the case of tap water if nitrate or phosphate are found to be present it may be necessary to use a method to remove them. To find out if they are present the tap water should be tested and you can ask your local water authority for a chemical read out of what is in your water. They will usually provide this information for free. Values for nitrate and phosphate should be as close to zero as possible.
The easiest methods for removing unwanted elements from water are either reverse osmosis or deionizers. Either of these systems adequately removes these unwanted compounds as well as heavy metals, and other undesirable substances so the choice is yours. The best systems contain both components to filter these nutrients out as well as sediment cartridges and carbon filters to help maintain the viability of the cartridges. The water that is produced by these units is very pure. These units have a high initial cost, but when their cost is considered for the years they will be in service the water they produce only costs pennies per gallon.
 

spanko

Active Member
Yup. Algae require nutrients and light to grow. If you are have a concern with the amount of algae you have in your tank find the source of the nutrient and reevaluate your photoperiod.
Overfeeding
Too much livestock for the amount of biofiltration and or mechanical chemical filtration you have
Lights on too long, bulbs old.
 

thang45

Member
Thanks soulsigma very much for the long post. I'm starting to understand it better now.
This is my setup:
90gal
38gal sump with refugium with chaeto
I use RO water with DDE H2 Ocean PRO salt.
I have MSX200 skimmer
2 purple fire fish
2 cardinal
2 clown
1 small blue tank (2-3 inches)
1 yellow tank, (3-4 inches)
tuxedo urchin
lighting schedule (actinic blue on 10 hours, and MH on 9 hours)
10 hermit crabs, 30 snails
Cal 420, Alkalinity 9 dkh, Mag 1280
2 Koralia # 4
1 Koralia # 3
Maxi-jet 900
Feeding the fish twice a day. Now feeding them 1 once a day or every other day.
Feeding coral 2 twice a week
WC every 3 weeks 10%
Lighting Coralife 48" 2x250W and 2 96W actinic blue ( installed 3 months ago)
Temp is 76F
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3062095
Yup. Algae require nutrients and light to grow. If you are have a concern with the amount of algae you have in your tank find the source of the nutrient and reevaluate your photoperiod.
Overfeeding
Too much livestock for the amount of biofiltration and or mechanical chemical filtration you have
Lights on too long, bulbs old.
Am I doing something wrong or too much live stock?
 

tdog7879

Member
Originally Posted by thang45
http:///forum/post/3064353
Thanks soulsigma very much for the long post. I'm starting to understand it better now.
This is my setup:
90gal
38gal sump with refugium with chaeto
I use RO water with DDE H2 Ocean PRO salt.
I have MSX200 skimmer
2 purple fire fish
2 cardinal
2 clown
1 small blue tank (2-3 inches)
1 yellow tank, (3-4 inches)
tuxedo urchin
lighting schedule (actinic blue on 10 hours, and MH on 9 hours)
10 hermit crabs, 30 snails
Cal 420, Alkalinity 9 dkh, Mag 1280
2 Koralia # 4
1 Koralia # 3
Maxi-jet 900
Feeding the fish twice a day. Now feeding them 1 once a day or every other day.
Feeding coral 2 twice a week
WC every 3 weeks 10%
Lighting Coralife 48" 2x250W and 2 96W actinic blue ( installed 3 months ago)
Temp is 76F
Am I doing something wrong or too much live stock?
Cut back the MH light to 8 hours and feed every other day(check bulbs how long u have had them) and up the WC to weekly 10% till everything seems to get better and then maybe go to bi-weekly.
 

spanko

Active Member
From your post it looks to me like you have been feeding too much, and I don't notice any clean up crew besides the urchin. Without a good cleanup crew when you were feeding so heavily willing to bet there was a lot of uneaten food going to the sand and rocks. Also try blowing on rockwork with a turkey baster just before you do a water change and see how much gunk blows off of them.
 

tdog7879

Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3064369
From your post it looks to me like you have been feeding too much, and I don't notice any clean up crew besides the urchin. Without a good cleanup crew when you were feeding so heavily willing to bet there was a lot of uneaten food going to the sand and rocks. Also try blowing on rockwork with a turkey baster just before you do a water change and see how much gunk blows off of them.
he got 10 hermit and 20 snails but he could also up that up
 

thang45

Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3064369
From your post it looks to me like you have been feeding too much, and I don't notice any clean up crew besides the urchin. Without a good cleanup crew when you were feeding so heavily willing to bet there was a lot of uneaten food going to the sand and rocks. Also try blowing on rockwork with a turkey baster just before you do a water change and see how much gunk blows off of them.

Originally Posted by tdog7879

http:///forum/post/3064373
he got 10 hermit and 20 snails but he could also up that up
I do see lots of debris when using the turkey baster. Maybe more cleaning crew, but what should I buy?
I just send in my skimmer pump for repair today hopefully the tank will survive 10 days without a skimmer.
I'm thinking of getting the Phosphate reactor, any recommend?
BTW, the bulbs and light fixture is only 3 months old.
 

soulsigma

Member

Originally Posted by thang45
http:///forum/post/3064353
Thanks soulsigma very much for the long post. I'm starting to understand it better now.
This is my setup:
90gal
38gal sump with refugium with chaeto
I use RO water with DDE H2 Ocean PRO salt.
I have MSX200 skimmer
2 purple fire fish
2 cardinal
2 clown
1 small blue tank (2-3 inches)
1 yellow tank, (3-4 inches)
tuxedo urchin
lighting schedule (actinic blue on 10 hours, and MH on 9 hours)
10 hermit crabs, 30 snails
Cal 420, Alkalinity 9 dkh, Mag 1280
2 Koralia # 4
1 Koralia # 3
Maxi-jet 900
Feeding the fish twice a day. Now feeding them 1 once a day or every other day.
Feeding coral 2 twice a week
WC every 3 weeks 10%
Lighting Coralife 48" 2x250W and 2 96W actinic blue ( installed 3 months ago)
Temp is 76F
Am I doing something wrong or too much live stock?
In any aquarium, the light cycle, or amount of time the lights are on per day, can have a dramatic effect on the growth of nuisance algae.

If you have a lighting system with both daylight (white bulbs) and actinic (blue bulbs) lights, it is best to have the actinic blue lights come on 1 hour to 1.5 hours before the daylight lights and stay on 1 hour to 1.5 hours after the daylight bulbs turn off. This can be easily accomplished with the use of two timers.
I recommend a white daylight cycle of 8-9 hours with the actinic blue lights coming on before and remaining on after the daylights.
If you have rapid growth of nuisance algae, try cutting you light cycle back by 15-30 minutes.
Sometimes it only takes a small decrease in the light cycle to make a big difference.
 

soulsigma

Member
Feed Your Tropical Marine Aquarium Fishes!
Today I’d like to talk a little about a favorite topic of marine aquarists—feeding. As marine aquarists, our hobby requires more consistent care than some other hobbies. If we stop looking after our aquatic charges—even for a relatively short time—their health may well suffer. Toward that end, and despite what you may have heard previously, feeding should be a daily endeavor.
Most Saltwater Tanks Should be Fed Several Times a Day
I’m pretty sick of hearing people recommend that saltwater aquarists underfeed their tanks. I even heard a speaker at a trade show tell a large audience to feed “maybe twice a week—that’s all they really need.” While it is certainly true that some animals commonly kept do not need to be fed daily, it is also true that the vast majority of community FOWLR and reef tanks should be fed at least twice a day.
If it’s true that most tanks should be fed twice a day, why is it that so many people harp on not overfeeding instead of not underfeeding? The answer is simple: Filtration. And, more specifically, insufficient filtration. When you add food to your aquarium, that food, in one form or another, is going to stay in the aquarium until it is filtered out. It follows that if you feed more, you are going to increase the nutrients in your tank, which may lead to decreasing water quality and algae blooms—the bane of many aquarists’ existence.
Filter More Instead of Feeding Less
The solution to excessive nutrients, however, is not to feed less. Instead, the responsible aquarist truly concerned with appropriately caring for his or her animals will ramp us the system’s filtration to be able to handle the nutrients associated with suitable feeding. It’s simple—increasing feeding and increasing filtration is, more often than not, a good thing in the tropical marine aquarium.

Long Term Effects on Health and Behavior
Why is this? I mean you may know someone with a beautiful tank who claims he or she feeds every third day or even less. While it is possible for many marine fishes to go for periods of time without proper nutrition, the long term effect is cumulative and will result in stress and health issues.
On the reef, there is a near constant supply of food in the water column and fishes are nearly always feeding. In our closed systems, especially ones that are less than a year old, this is clearly not the case. While a certain amount of foraging occurs in the tank, the fishes are very dependent on when you—the aquarist—feeds the tank. Feeding infrequently is not natural, and it will affect everything from the health to the behavior of your animals.
An Approriate Feeding Schedule
In a future blog entry, we can talk a little more about what to feed, but, as a general rule of thumb, try to feed a varied diet appropriate to the animals you keep 3-5 times per day. Each feeding can be relatively small (the old trick of feeding as much as is consumed in 5 minutes is an okay metric if you are feeding 3 or more times per day). Be sure to target feed any animals that are not aggressive feeders (e.g., jawfishes) at least twice a day, and be sure to use high quality foods (or even fresh table seafood) that will not unnecessarily increase the nutrient levels in your system.
Feeding more frequently is in the best interest of your animals in terms of their health and behavior—do it! And if you need to increase your filtration capacity, do that too.
Hope this article helps you as much as it has me
 

thang45

Member

Originally Posted by soulsigma
http:///forum/post/3067389
Feed Your Tropical Marine Aquarium Fishes!
Today I’d like to talk a little about a favorite topic of marine aquarists—feeding. As marine aquarists, our hobby requires more consistent care than some other hobbies. If we stop looking after our aquatic charges—even for a relatively short time—their health may well suffer. Toward that end, and despite what you may have heard previously, feeding should be a daily endeavor.
Most Saltwater Tanks Should be Fed Several Times a Day
I’m pretty sick of hearing people recommend that saltwater aquarists underfeed their tanks. I even heard a speaker at a trade show tell a large audience to feed “maybe twice a week—that’s all they really need.” While it is certainly true that some animals commonly kept do not need to be fed daily, it is also true that the vast majority of community FOWLR and reef tanks should be fed at least twice a day.
If it’s true that most tanks should be fed twice a day, why is it that so many people harp on not overfeeding instead of not underfeeding? The answer is simple: Filtration. And, more specifically, insufficient filtration. When you add food to your aquarium, that food, in one form or another, is going to stay in the aquarium until it is filtered out. It follows that if you feed more, you are going to increase the nutrients in your tank, which may lead to decreasing water quality and algae blooms—the bane of many aquarists’ existence.
Filter More Instead of Feeding Less
The solution to excessive nutrients, however, is not to feed less. Instead, the responsible aquarist truly concerned with appropriately caring for his or her animals will ramp us the system’s filtration to be able to handle the nutrients associated with suitable feeding. It’s simple—increasing feeding and increasing filtration is, more often than not, a good thing in the tropical marine aquarium.

Long Term Effects on Health and Behavior
Why is this? I mean you may know someone with a beautiful tank who claims he or she feeds every third day or even less. While it is possible for many marine fishes to go for periods of time without proper nutrition, the long term effect is cumulative and will result in stress and health issues.
On the reef, there is a near constant supply of food in the water column and fishes are nearly always feeding. In our closed systems, especially ones that are less than a year old, this is clearly not the case. While a certain amount of foraging occurs in the tank, the fishes are very dependent on when you—the aquarist—feeds the tank. Feeding infrequently is not natural, and it will affect everything from the health to the behavior of your animals.
An Approriate Feeding Schedule
In a future blog entry, we can talk a little more about what to feed, but, as a general rule of thumb, try to feed a varied diet appropriate to the animals you keep 3-5 times per day. Each feeding can be relatively small (the old trick of feeding as much as is consumed in 5 minutes is an okay metric if you are feeding 3 or more times per day). Be sure to target feed any animals that are not aggressive feeders (e.g., jawfishes) at least twice a day, and be sure to use high quality foods (or even fresh table seafood) that will not unnecessarily increase the nutrient levels in your system.
Feeding more frequently is in the best interest of your animals in terms of their health and behavior—do it! And if you need to increase your filtration capacity, do that too.
Hope this article helps you as much as it has me

Thank you very much. This is great. I think you are right feeding 2 times a day is not too much as long as they can finish the food within 5 minutes and lots of filtration.
I will continue to feed twice a day but since I have no skimmer I will do 10% WC every week.
Any recommend for phosphate remover?
 

soulsigma

Member
Description
Filtra P Fast Anti Phosphate
Phosphates may be present as organic or inorganic phosphates inside our marine aquarium. Since inorganic phosphates are much easier to be removed from water, organic phosphates will mostly not be impacted by phosphate-binding materials normally available to the aquarium hobby.
Elos Filtra P FAST is an efficient phosphate remover based on IRON. In contrast to ALUMINUM base FILTRA P, this product is used to quickly remove phosphate both, inorganic as well as organic. It is completely reef safe unlike some competing products adsorbants which may leach phosphates back to the aquarium or may simply precipitate driving more phosphate onto the sand and rock and suspended CaCO3 particulates.
ELOS FiltraP FAST, should be use as a "symptomatic product". It should be used to rapidly reduce the level of phosphate. It is also suggested to use the ALUMINUM BASED formula (ELOS FILTRA P) from the setup in order to keep PO4 constantly under control.
Important tips: many types of seafood contain various inorganic phosphate salts intentionally added to them as preservatives. Also aragonite, normally used as media in Calcium reactor, may contains phosphates which will be released at low pH level back to the aquarium. The use of our marine fish food SVM as well as Ca Pur, our highly pure media for calcium reactors, can be very beneficial in order to avoid the accumulation of PO4.
Note: We suggest not to reduce phosphate levels too quickly in SPS dominated reef tanks as experience has shown that such practices have been the cause of tissue necrosis (RTN and STN).
HIGHLIGHTS:
helps to remove excess phosphate both organic and inorganic
reef safe
based on iron formula
naturally promotes clear aquarium water
helps to restore and maintain the natural eco – balance
 

thang45

Member
Originally Posted by soulsigma
http:///forum/post/3068058
Description
Filtra P Fast Anti Phosphate
Phosphates may be present as organic or inorganic phosphates inside our marine aquarium. Since inorganic phosphates are much easier to be removed from water, organic phosphates will mostly not be impacted by phosphate-binding materials normally available to the aquarium hobby.
Elos Filtra P FAST is an efficient phosphate remover based on IRON. In contrast to ALUMINUM base FILTRA P, this product is used to quickly remove phosphate both, inorganic as well as organic. It is completely reef safe unlike some competing products adsorbants which may leach phosphates back to the aquarium or may simply precipitate driving more phosphate onto the sand and rock and suspended CaCO3 particulates.
ELOS FiltraP FAST, should be use as a "symptomatic product". It should be used to rapidly reduce the level of phosphate. It is also suggested to use the ALUMINUM BASED formula (ELOS FILTRA P) from the setup in order to keep PO4 constantly under control.
Important tips: many types of seafood contain various inorganic phosphate salts intentionally added to them as preservatives. Also aragonite, normally used as media in Calcium reactor, may contains phosphates which will be released at low pH level back to the aquarium. The use of our marine fish food SVM as well as Ca Pur, our highly pure media for calcium reactors, can be very beneficial in order to avoid the accumulation of PO4.
Note: We suggest not to reduce phosphate levels too quickly in SPS dominated reef tanks as experience has shown that such practices have been the cause of tissue necrosis (RTN and STN).
HIGHLIGHTS:
helps to remove excess phosphate both organic and inorganic
reef safe
based on iron formula
naturally promotes clear aquarium water
helps to restore and maintain the natural eco – balance
Thank you. I guess I don't need a reacotr for this?
 
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