And What if I Want a Reef?

[michael r]

Okay, my interest has been peaked; what do I need to have a reef?
I have a 90 gallon FOWLR with 1 Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Firefish and 1 Solar Fairy Wrasse (all of whom I know to be reef safe).
I don't have a sump or fuge, but I manage fine without them and have two bunches of caulerpa and chaetomorpha macro algae in my aquarium.
I have about 10x turnover per hour in my aquarium.
I have a skimmer and a sand bed around 1-1.5" deep, and 75 lbs LR.
I use glass tops on top of my aquarium as I have fish that tend to jump, are the tops fine?
I measure pH, ammonia, nitrites, ammonia, GH and KH.
I really want to get into SPS right away but I've heard they aren't the best starter corals.
I know I'll need light: I was considering the 48" Tek T5H0 4x54w or two Coralife 150w MH.
What complications will arise from each of the above lighting systems?
Anyways, that's just the beginning. I'd like a list of items necessary to get into a reef from my point.

 

[travis89]

For the lighting I would go with the 6 bulb TEK T5 setup and you'll be fine, T5's run more efficient then MH does and still allow you to keep whatever you want. I would also recommend starting with some soft corals because they are easier to keep. When you go SPS will need about 20-25x turnover in your tank. I would replace the glass tops with either eggcrate or fiberglass screening, it allows better gas exchange which helps the temps stay lower and they can cause problems with the ph. You need to measure calcium, phosphates, and magnesium if you get into SPS. I might have missed something but thats all i have right now.

 

[geoj]

Add calcium and phosphate to your test kits
If the tank is over 20 inches tall go 250 MH light or you will have to keep most sps up high, this is based on my experience with x2 65w power compacts and one 150w MH
The rest looks good to me

 

[geoj]

Originally Posted by Travis89
For the lighting I would go with the 6 bulb TEK T5 setup and you'll be fine, T5's run more efficient then MH does and still allow you to keep whatever you want. I would also recommend starting with some soft corals because they are easier to keep. When you go SPS will need about 20-25x turnover in your tank. I would replace the glass tops with either eggcrate or fiberglass screening, it allows better gas exchange which helps the temps stay lower and they can cause problems with the ph. You need to measure calcium, phosphates, and magnesium if you get into SPS. I might have missed something but thats all i have right now.
Will T5's penetrate deep tanks?

 

[geoj]

Temp range you need to keep it as small as you can 2-3 degrees

 

[notsonoob]

I would think about your tops. If you increase the wattage of your lights, you will increase the heat generated to your tank.
Plus you will need to think about hte gas exchanges. I pulled the solid tops off mine and got some egg crate to replace it. It also will keep your jumpers from jumping out.
With the tops, I got up to 85 degrees, without 79.

 

[travis89]

Originally Posted by GeoJ
Will T5's penetrate deep tanks?
yes, a 24" deep tank would be fine under T5 as long as they have individual reflectors.

 

[dragonzim]

You are going to want to increase your turnover. 10X is not enough. You should be more in the 15x to 20x range. T5's are a great choice, but I would look at the TEK 6x54 rather than the 4x54.

 

[swalchemist]

Get a sump, put your skimmer in it.
Increase turnover to above 20X for softies and LPS.
SPS 40-75X depending on species and size of colonies.
If you are thinking of SPS on a 90 get a Tunze 6101 first, you will not regret it.
Coralife aqualight 2X250 HQI (my favorite light so far)
Switch out bulbs to 14K
Kalk Reactor with autotop off I suggest and use TUNZE Osmolator for the job.
IF SPS start off with easier species like Montipora, digitata, pocilliopora.
Learn about Alkalinity and calcium and how they are related it will save you lots of time and problems.