Anenomies and Lighting Question

[cyn]

What are the light requirements for keeping anenomies? I thought that between 4-5 watts per gallon was sufficient? I currently have 220 wats of compact flourecent lights, half are 10000k daylight and the other half is actintic blue. I am hoping to house both corals and anenomies with very few fish. Advice????

 

[fshhub]

IMO
the best advice that i can give is to avoid anemones all together
but, if you must have them, read, read, read
and then research, research, and research some more
then when you are done do some more research
anemones are very delicate creatures with special needs, that should outlive us, yet rarely see 6 months in an aquarium, or even a year in the tanks of old vets with well established tanks(i mean 5-10 yr vets with 3+++yr. old tanks)
SORRY, if it sounds repititous, but this is how i feel(strongly) about anemones, however, i will not argue about their beauty or mystisism or other qualities

 

[josh]

I totally agree with fsh.. anemome are best left to the ocean and not to aquariums.

 

[up north hermit]

If you absolutely MUST have an anemone, then I advocate the purchase of tank raised animals only. Leave the wild anemones in the sea where they will live for hundreds of years.
The most available and hardy of the tank raised are the bubble tips. (Mine have already split, i.e., reproduced). To say they are hardy is NOT to say they don't have particular needs, especially the lighting issue.
HTH
Hermit

 

[nasotang00]

Just remember to feed them at least twice a week as well. Most anemone deaths are from starvation...

 

[cyn]

I understand all of the issues you have brought up. I am asking these questions in order to help me decide if and when to get a couple bubble tips. My lfs has tank raised bubble tips anyway. I have no intention of getting one anytime soon, I am just trying to learn more. I have been researching this hobby for about 4 years before beginning my tank, but I still want to know more. Currently, I only have LR, mushrooms, a brittle star, tons of pods and a midas blenny.
My question to you all is what is the lighting requirements for these guys. Everything I read seems to be very different. I do not have anywhere but here and the lfs to get advice, and I prefer the honest opinions of people here who have TONS of experience.
Thanks!

 

[up north hermit]

Sounds like a well thought out plan. Your tank sounds like it is progressing well!
Tank raised anemones do best when the lighting they were grown under is replicated. First acertain what lighting was used over the tank they were raised in (not necessarialy the tank in your lfs unless that is where they were raised).
Usually these bubble tips will do well under PC lighting, and thrive under VHO lighting, but MH seem to be a bit strong for them. (Remember, this is rule of thumb, there are always exceptions). So I would recommend VHO, followed by PC. I personally would not use NO (I can hear the moans now) or MH, unless the animal is shaded a bit.
My humble .02
HTH
Hermit

 

[cyn]

Up North,
Thanks for the reply. I will find out more specs on them from the lfs. The one fella there is great, alway answeres my questions and if he is not sure or does not know, he says so and finds the answer.
Right now, I am beginning the change to dsb and will not be adding any livestock for quite a while. I plan on changing 1/3 of my substrate every 2 weeks. It will be 6 weeks or longer before I add anything new .
I know, patience! LOL I have to fix my mistake with cc before I go any further. Currently I have only lr, shrooms, brittle star and a midas blenny.
Just trying to learn, learn, learn! Thanks again!

 

[wrigley11]

Okay cyn, I'll try to help you on this one.
About the lighting question. I'll use my tanks as examples since I've had my anemones for just over 2 years and they have doubled to tripled in size. Both tanks have power compacts with one tank just over 4 watts and the other just over 5.
The type of lighting is not as important as the spectrum on the lighting. You have to run actinic - around 50%. Otherwise the anemone will not be able to get energy throw this source. Anemones die for two reasons... they die when you put it in the tank right away because it was not a good specimen when it was purchased or it wastes away. Alot of people think you have to feed an anemone and this is there major source of food. This is not true, since food is only a secondary source of food and is not enough to keep it alive. When you purchase the anemone make sure it is not clear... if it is most of the time the animal will die with a few weeks.
The other major cause of death is from the waste this animal creates. If the anemone is not in a good current it will die. I've seen this in tank after tank. Create an area where it can put it's foot so it's not in the current, but the arms have to be in a current. I can not stress this enough. The idea that an anemone will walk around until it finds a good spot is wrong. It may die before this happens. Remember that it is filled with water so if it's waste is not carried away by a current it will be drawn back into the animal.
Something else, you have to follow you maintance schedule. If you have any build of waste in the system if will kill it. Also there are trace elements that the anemone needs that usually can only be put back in throw water changes.
Lastly, you can not save a dieing anemone. If it is on the down swing it's going to die. If you good to buy one and it does look good don't buy it. It will die in your tank and cause a ton of problems.
So for your question... the lighting is okay but you need to tells about the rest of the system... filtration, how old running, etc.
A few more bits... it will walk, over time it will get big, and it will kill and coral it touches over time. These three rules you can not stop from happening. Common types are also the eaiest to care for. They come from the caribean in a lot of different colors.
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

 

[cyn]

WoW! Now that is the kind of answer I was looking for! Thank you so much. From your reply, I think I will in the future, late Feb. to early March give it a go. My tank is only just over 2 months old, but all of my tests are running stable and in great levels.
I do routine maintance: test water every 3 days, top off with Kalk nightly, change out 10 to 15% of the water every 2 weeks too. I am using LR and a protien skimmer now and will be changing over to a dsb over the next 6 weeks. I feed my star and midas nightly, and never see leftovers. oh, I add zoe to the food to be sure they are getting what they need. The only other additives I use are Kent Marine strontium and molybdenum 1 tsp every 5 days and iodine 1/8tsp.each night.(8gtts = 1/8tsp.) I am feeding primarily marine cuisine ?sp? and as I said before, I never see leftovers, nor do I get and changes in my water chemistry.
If you need more info to advise me, please ask.
Thanks again for the great answer, this is why I am here.

 

[wrigley11]

The only thing is watch the star... you may want to get one that is reef safe... The one will eat anemones and corals. When you start will corals and anemones I would use the full chemical treatment... iodine, strontium, and there is something else...
Someone help here... also Kent makes some other additives: Coral Excel is expensive but it does really help soft corals. I guess it's the only growth stimulate on the market right now.
Another thing I forgot... watch the powerheads: they will pull the anemone in and kill it. Also if you are going for the clownfish thing... get the fish or the type of anemone that match up.
About adding... make sure the tank is stable... Thats the most important thing.

 

[predator]

I'v got 5 diffrent types of anemonies. 9 all together and have had no problems.Your lighting sounds good,but what size tank you got?If you feed them regularly and have sufficent light then you'll be fine with them.Take your time acclimating them and good luck.I love all of my'n.

 

[cyn]

The powerheads all have pre-fliters, so no exposed places to pull anything in.
As for the star, I was under the impression that this type was reef safe. It came out of an established reef anyway. Hmmm... Live and learn!
If anyone can recall the name of the other additive, send it this way via the board or e-mail if that is allowed.
Thanks,
Cyn

 

[up north hermit]

As an old reefer who has tried just about everything............
I had a carpet anemone for 7 years. Currently I have 3 bubble tips, the "mother" anemone (two are clones of the first which split in my tank) has not moved in two years. Generally, and THAT IS GENERALLY, anemones do not move if they are happy. Once established. But if you change the slightest thing, current, light, additives, etc., this CAN cause them stress and they will then look for that "perfect spot" again. The key is to keep your tank balanced and once you have found what works, don't change anything.
About additives: there are many differing opinions on this one. I add absolutely NOTHING to my tank. I maintain regular water changes (once every 6 weeks----go ahead moan now........), I drip Kalk every night, and I add Kents ProBuffer dkh in the morning before lights on.
My corals are literally growing out of the tank.
I just wanted to give you another opinion on this subject, and as I said, there are many.
Find what works best for you and then stick to it. Many mistakes can be avoided by NOT trying what everyone else is doing, thus causing these constant changes in the chemistry of your own tank. Each and every ecosystem is unique and dances to the tune of its own drummer.
My humble .02
HTH
Hermit

 

[kung fu]

Up North Hermit...
I'm really a newbie at reef tanks, but IMHO that was a HUGE statement you made:
"Find what works best for you and then stick to it. Many mistakes can be avoided by NOT trying what everyone else is doing, thus causing these constant changes in the chemistry of your own tank. Each and every ecosystem is unique and dances to the tune of its own drummer. "
I just had to applaude you for it...
Peace...

 

[cyn]

Up North,
Thanks so much for your guidance. Your replies are well thought out and very informative. Not to mention really appreciated. I have removed the cc and now have 2/3 of a dsb. In 2 weeks I will finish the change to sand and allow the tank to restabilize. Mabey in late feb. I will give it a go. The anenomies at my LFS are tank raised with very similar lighting to mine, so I think I stand a good chance. I described my plan with the owner of the store, and he also thinks I am on the right track.
Thanks again for the advice!
cyn

 

[ironreef]

Maintane you cal ,alk and ph. The trace will come from good foods. Most foods have enough. The anemone will get alot or most from food. Lighting Intensity is more important than spectrium ime. Given 6.5-20k range it really doesn't matter. I will agree bubble tips don't need as much light but do need alot of vho/pc. ppl I know who have 20-50 clones a year have them under alot of vho and have told me they did better when they increased the lighting. PPL I know who have them under halides they seemto stay lower or in shaded areas. My rose bubble i put it in and it stayed within 3-4 " from the oringinal spot and went from a quarter to a baseball in@3mo. I feed @twice a week. if your lighting isn't as good you should feed more. But not too much or they won't stay open. I would only buy captive prop. Bubblestips seem to like less light but there are others that will only do good in halides or usually like ritters but huge anemones like that should have there own tank. Bubbletip captive prop is a good choice. Mine doesn't like alot of current but i have alot of flow =20x for my sps but its seaswirls and my rose is in a lower shelterd area. Another easy anemonie is aiptasia that doesn't need alot of light or feeding but it will grow good but if we are talking host anemones go for captive prop. JME