Another NewB
- Thread starter g-stacks
- Start date
g-stacks
Member
Originally Posted by petjunkie
Just a tip, I wouldn't add two anemones to a 30 gallon, you don't really have the light to support either of them and there will be massive chemical warfare between them, plus they both will outgrow that tank.
F^&%ing LFS 130w of light is not ebough? Damn what should i get?
Just a tip, I wouldn't add two anemones to a 30 gallon, you don't really have the light to support either of them and there will be massive chemical warfare between them, plus they both will outgrow that tank.
F^&%ing LFS 130w of light is not ebough? Damn what should i get?
rykna
Active Member
Originally Posted by G-Stacks
Thanks for the info. Rykna
No Problem~
Here's some more info
When designing a lighting system for any aquarium, we are faced with a
multitude of products to choose from. This is due, in part, to the many
advancements that have been made in the lighting industry over the past
decade. It is important to know the spectrum and intensity of light that
is required by the organisms that will be kept in the aquarium prior to
designing the lighting system. The various types of lighting systems
also differ in price, operating costs, and the amount of heat produced
by the bulbs and ballasts. This article will explain the various
lighting systems that are offered on the market and their
characteristics. A table at the end of the article summarizes this
information.
The most common lighting systems available for aquarium use include:
* Incandescent
* Fluorescent
o Standard fluorescent
o HO and VHO fluorescent
o Power compact fluorescent
* Metal halide
* HQI
It is important to remember that the bulbs and ballasts associated with
these systems are specific to those systems and cannot be interchanged.
Incandescent
Incandescent bulbs for aquariumsIncandescent bulbs are the typical
lights used in the home for general use. An incandescent light consists
of a glass bulb with a filament within it. When electricity is passed
through the filament, it causes the filament to heat up and glow,
producing light. Incandescent lights are very inexpensive, feature long
lamp life, and come in a variety of colors. However, their uses in the
aquarium hobby are limited due to both the low spectrum of light and the
amount of heat produced. Due to these factors, incandescent bulbs are
only offered in low wattages, making them useful only on small,
fish-only aquariums, which do not require a wide light spectrum or
intensity.
Lighting systems requiring ballasts
IceCap ballast for aquariumsOther than incandescent, all other aquarium
lighting systems require ballasts that have been designed for that
specific system. A ballast provides the correct starting voltage and
maintains the correct current to the bulb. There are two different types
of ballasts available: magnetic and electronic. Electronic ballasts are
relatively new to the industry and feature a smaller, cooler running
design. Not only do the electronic ballasts produce less heat, they are
also more energy efficient and feature a longer bulb life. For example,
bulbs used for a planted or reef aquarium with a magnetic ballast system
should be replaced after 6 months of operation. However, with an
electronic ballast, these same bulbs can be kept in operation for 18 to
24 months without significant losses in spectrum or intensity. Although
electronic ballasts are more expensive initially, the energy savings and
lower bulb replacement costs are significant over the life of the system.
Types of fluorescent lighting: There are many different types of
fluorescent systems available on the market today, making them the most
popular type of lighting system. The different types of fluorescent
systems include; standard, HO (High Output) and VHO (Very High Output),
and power compact. Fluorescent bulbs come in many different sizes,
wattages, and spectrum ranges, which make them one of the most versatile
systems. All of these systems require a ballast that is specific to that
system. The bulbs cannot be interchanged between systems.
A fluorescent light consists of a glass tube filled with gas.
Electricity is passed through the tube causing the gasses within the
tube to heat to the point to where they glow, producing light. Different
spectrums of light are achieved by coating the inside of the tube with
different blends of phosphors. As the light passes through the coating,
the phosphors produce colors based on their chemical makeup. Over time,
however, the gas and coating within the bulb will degrade with use,
changing both the intensity and spectrum of the light produced by the
bulb. It is important that these bulbs are changed on a regular basis.
Thanks for the info. Rykna
No Problem~
Here's some more info
When designing a lighting system for any aquarium, we are faced with a
multitude of products to choose from. This is due, in part, to the many
advancements that have been made in the lighting industry over the past
decade. It is important to know the spectrum and intensity of light that
is required by the organisms that will be kept in the aquarium prior to
designing the lighting system. The various types of lighting systems
also differ in price, operating costs, and the amount of heat produced
by the bulbs and ballasts. This article will explain the various
lighting systems that are offered on the market and their
characteristics. A table at the end of the article summarizes this
information.
The most common lighting systems available for aquarium use include:
* Incandescent
* Fluorescent
o Standard fluorescent
o HO and VHO fluorescent
o Power compact fluorescent
* Metal halide
* HQI
It is important to remember that the bulbs and ballasts associated with
these systems are specific to those systems and cannot be interchanged.
Incandescent
Incandescent bulbs for aquariumsIncandescent bulbs are the typical
lights used in the home for general use. An incandescent light consists
of a glass bulb with a filament within it. When electricity is passed
through the filament, it causes the filament to heat up and glow,
producing light. Incandescent lights are very inexpensive, feature long
lamp life, and come in a variety of colors. However, their uses in the
aquarium hobby are limited due to both the low spectrum of light and the
amount of heat produced. Due to these factors, incandescent bulbs are
only offered in low wattages, making them useful only on small,
fish-only aquariums, which do not require a wide light spectrum or
intensity.
Lighting systems requiring ballasts
IceCap ballast for aquariumsOther than incandescent, all other aquarium
lighting systems require ballasts that have been designed for that
specific system. A ballast provides the correct starting voltage and
maintains the correct current to the bulb. There are two different types
of ballasts available: magnetic and electronic. Electronic ballasts are
relatively new to the industry and feature a smaller, cooler running
design. Not only do the electronic ballasts produce less heat, they are
also more energy efficient and feature a longer bulb life. For example,
bulbs used for a planted or reef aquarium with a magnetic ballast system
should be replaced after 6 months of operation. However, with an
electronic ballast, these same bulbs can be kept in operation for 18 to
24 months without significant losses in spectrum or intensity. Although
electronic ballasts are more expensive initially, the energy savings and
lower bulb replacement costs are significant over the life of the system.
Types of fluorescent lighting: There are many different types of
fluorescent systems available on the market today, making them the most
popular type of lighting system. The different types of fluorescent
systems include; standard, HO (High Output) and VHO (Very High Output),
and power compact. Fluorescent bulbs come in many different sizes,
wattages, and spectrum ranges, which make them one of the most versatile
systems. All of these systems require a ballast that is specific to that
system. The bulbs cannot be interchanged between systems.
A fluorescent light consists of a glass tube filled with gas.
Electricity is passed through the tube causing the gasses within the
tube to heat to the point to where they glow, producing light. Different
spectrums of light are achieved by coating the inside of the tube with
different blends of phosphors. As the light passes through the coating,
the phosphors produce colors based on their chemical makeup. Over time,
however, the gas and coating within the bulb will degrade with use,
changing both the intensity and spectrum of the light produced by the
bulb. It is important that these bulbs are changed on a regular basis.
rykna
Active Member
Variety of standard fluorescent daylight and actinic bulbs for
aquariumsStandard fluorescent: A standard fluorescent system includes a
ballast that is designed to operate bulbs in the size range from 18" to
72" in length. Along with the different lengths, bulbs are also offered
in different diameters. The diameter is represented by the bulb's T
rating. The T rating is based on a scale of 1/8 inch. Therefore, a bulb
with a T rating of 8 has a 1" diameter. The most common diameters for
standard fluorescent bulbs are a T-8 and T-12. Most fixtures will accept
either of the two, but the wattages are different. For two bulbs of the
same length, the one smaller in diameter will have a lower wattage. For
example, a 48" T-12 bulb produces 40 watts, whereas a 48" T-8 bulb only
produces 32 watts. Also, fluorescents offer a wide variety of spectrums
to choose from. These spectrums range from the fish-only beauty lights,
to specialty plant bulbs, all of the way up the Kelvin scale to the
actinic bulbs for saltwater aquariums.
The initial cost of standard fluorescents are in the low to medium price
range depending on the type of ballast included. The commonly available
sizes for these systems range from 18" to 48" with wattages from 15 to
40 watts. The operating costs for these systems are low in comparison to
other types of lighting. Bulb replacement is recommended on these
systems every 6 to 18 months, again depending on the type of ballast
that is used. Another advantage to these systems is the lower amount of
heat produced. Therefore, an aquarium that is illuminated with standard
fluorescents typically does not require a water chiller or a hood with
cooling fans. Standard fluorescent systems are a good choice for both
freshwater and saltwater fish-only aquariums. Multiple-bulb systems can
also be used for aquariums housing only those live plants and corals
that require low light levels.
Hamilton Magnetic Super Power VHO system for aquariums
HO and VHO fluorescent: High Output (HO) and Very High Output (VHO)
fluorescents are similar in design to the standard fluorescent, but
offer higher light output in the same size bulb. They require a
different ballast and end caps than are used with the standard
fluorescent systems. The bulbs for HO and VHO cannot be used with a
standard fluorescent system. With the advent of VHO bulbs, which produce
more light per watt, HO bulbs are not commonly used.
VHO and HO bulbs cannot be used with a standard fluorescent ballast.
These systems fall into the medium price range and will vary depending
on whether the system includes a magnetic or electronic ballast. These
bulbs are available from 24" to 72" long, with various T ratings, and
with wattages ranging from 75 to 160 watts. Because of the wattage
difference, these systems will use more electricity and are more
expensive to operate than the standard fluorescents. Bulbs should be
replaced every 4 to 6 months with a magnetic ballast, and every 12 to 24
months with an electronic ballast.
aquariumsStandard fluorescent: A standard fluorescent system includes a
ballast that is designed to operate bulbs in the size range from 18" to
72" in length. Along with the different lengths, bulbs are also offered
in different diameters. The diameter is represented by the bulb's T
rating. The T rating is based on a scale of 1/8 inch. Therefore, a bulb
with a T rating of 8 has a 1" diameter. The most common diameters for
standard fluorescent bulbs are a T-8 and T-12. Most fixtures will accept
either of the two, but the wattages are different. For two bulbs of the
same length, the one smaller in diameter will have a lower wattage. For
example, a 48" T-12 bulb produces 40 watts, whereas a 48" T-8 bulb only
produces 32 watts. Also, fluorescents offer a wide variety of spectrums
to choose from. These spectrums range from the fish-only beauty lights,
to specialty plant bulbs, all of the way up the Kelvin scale to the
actinic bulbs for saltwater aquariums.
The initial cost of standard fluorescents are in the low to medium price
range depending on the type of ballast included. The commonly available
sizes for these systems range from 18" to 48" with wattages from 15 to
40 watts. The operating costs for these systems are low in comparison to
other types of lighting. Bulb replacement is recommended on these
systems every 6 to 18 months, again depending on the type of ballast
that is used. Another advantage to these systems is the lower amount of
heat produced. Therefore, an aquarium that is illuminated with standard
fluorescents typically does not require a water chiller or a hood with
cooling fans. Standard fluorescent systems are a good choice for both
freshwater and saltwater fish-only aquariums. Multiple-bulb systems can
also be used for aquariums housing only those live plants and corals
that require low light levels.
Hamilton Magnetic Super Power VHO system for aquariums
HO and VHO fluorescent: High Output (HO) and Very High Output (VHO)
fluorescents are similar in design to the standard fluorescent, but
offer higher light output in the same size bulb. They require a
different ballast and end caps than are used with the standard
fluorescent systems. The bulbs for HO and VHO cannot be used with a
standard fluorescent system. With the advent of VHO bulbs, which produce
more light per watt, HO bulbs are not commonly used.
VHO and HO bulbs cannot be used with a standard fluorescent ballast.
These systems fall into the medium price range and will vary depending
on whether the system includes a magnetic or electronic ballast. These
bulbs are available from 24" to 72" long, with various T ratings, and
with wattages ranging from 75 to 160 watts. Because of the wattage
difference, these systems will use more electricity and are more
expensive to operate than the standard fluorescents. Bulbs should be
replaced every 4 to 6 months with a magnetic ballast, and every 12 to 24
months with an electronic ballast.
rykna
Active Member
The heat generated by the HO and VHO bulbs needs to be addressed prior
to the installation. At the very least, ventilation fans should be
incorporated into the lighting hood. Otherwise, depending on room
temperature, a water chiller should be included in the budget for the
installation.
The HO and VHO systems are typically used for saltwater reef aquariums.
These systems are also used for taller aquariums (24" or more) that
require the extra wattage to illuminate the bottom of the aquarium. The
spectrum available for these systems is typically in the higher Kelvin
range, making them unsuitable for freshwater planted aquariums unless
supplemental lighting is incorporated to provide the correct spectrum.
Power Compact complete hood for aquariumsPower compact fluorescent:
Power compact fluorescent systems operate with the same principles as
the other types of fluorescent systems. Their appearance is different
when compared to other systems. Instead of using one glass bulb, power
compacts incorporate bulbs that have a twin tube design. When looking at
the wattage ratings on these bulbs, the rating includes both tubes in
the total output of the bulb.
Power compact fluorescent systems fall into the medium price range and
are modest on energy consumption. They range from 6" to 34" in length
with intensities of 9 to 96 watts. There are two commonly available
designs: square pin and straight pin socket bases. These bulbs require
the sockets that have been designed for the pin layout of the specific
bulb type and cannot be interchanged. Because they are operated by an
electronic ballast, the average life of these bulbs is 14 to 24 months,
depending on the number of hours per day that they are used.
Like the other high-powered fluorescent systems, the power compacts
produce an amount of heat that is proportional with the number of watts
of the system. When multiple bulbs are used, a cooling fan should
ideally be incorporated into the lighting hood to remove any excess
heat. A water chiller may be needed when illuminating an aquarium with
approximately 4 watts per gallon or more depending on room temperature.
Power compact fluorescents are an excellent choice for any type of
aquarium. They are available in a wide range of spectrums, ranging from
the low Kelvin rated bulbs for freshwater planted aquariums up to the
blue spectrum needed for saltwater reef aquariums. Because of the low
operating cost and the longevity of the bulbs, these systems are a good
choice for most aquariums.
to the installation. At the very least, ventilation fans should be
incorporated into the lighting hood. Otherwise, depending on room
temperature, a water chiller should be included in the budget for the
installation.
The HO and VHO systems are typically used for saltwater reef aquariums.
These systems are also used for taller aquariums (24" or more) that
require the extra wattage to illuminate the bottom of the aquarium. The
spectrum available for these systems is typically in the higher Kelvin
range, making them unsuitable for freshwater planted aquariums unless
supplemental lighting is incorporated to provide the correct spectrum.
Power Compact complete hood for aquariumsPower compact fluorescent:
Power compact fluorescent systems operate with the same principles as
the other types of fluorescent systems. Their appearance is different
when compared to other systems. Instead of using one glass bulb, power
compacts incorporate bulbs that have a twin tube design. When looking at
the wattage ratings on these bulbs, the rating includes both tubes in
the total output of the bulb.
Power compact fluorescent systems fall into the medium price range and
are modest on energy consumption. They range from 6" to 34" in length
with intensities of 9 to 96 watts. There are two commonly available
designs: square pin and straight pin socket bases. These bulbs require
the sockets that have been designed for the pin layout of the specific
bulb type and cannot be interchanged. Because they are operated by an
electronic ballast, the average life of these bulbs is 14 to 24 months,
depending on the number of hours per day that they are used.
Like the other high-powered fluorescent systems, the power compacts
produce an amount of heat that is proportional with the number of watts
of the system. When multiple bulbs are used, a cooling fan should
ideally be incorporated into the lighting hood to remove any excess
heat. A water chiller may be needed when illuminating an aquarium with
approximately 4 watts per gallon or more depending on room temperature.
Power compact fluorescents are an excellent choice for any type of
aquarium. They are available in a wide range of spectrums, ranging from
the low Kelvin rated bulbs for freshwater planted aquariums up to the
blue spectrum needed for saltwater reef aquariums. Because of the low
operating cost and the longevity of the bulbs, these systems are a good
choice for most aquariums.
rykna
Active Member
This is what you will need :
Reef Sun metal halide system for aquariumsMetal halide: Metal halide
bulbs are similar to incandescent bulbs in appearance, but offer higher
intensities and wattages. Metal halides also offer spectrum ranges that
have been designed for the aquarium industry. A metal halide light
consists of a glass bulb with a series of wires connected to another
glass bulb within it. When electricity passes through this ********
glass bulb, it causes the gas to produce light. The base of the bulb is
threaded like an incandescent lamp, but requires a special socket,
called a mogul, that is specific to that system. The ballast required to
operate this system is typically located in the cabinet below the
aquarium, where the heat it produces will not be added to the aquarium.
There is a wide range of bulbs available for the metal halide systems
with spectrums ranging from 4000K up to 20,000K, and intensities ranging
from 175 watts up to 1000 watts. The metal halide bulbs are expensive;
the higher the wattage of the system, the more expensive the bulbs. Bulb
prices range from $60 to $120 each for a 175-watt system. Along with the
increase in price for bulbs, the higher wattage systems require an
increased amount of electricity needed to operate the system.
Metal halide lighting systems are in the high price range for both
initial and operating costs. Initial cost will vary depending on the
type of ballast and bulb that is included with the system. Magnetic and
electronic ballasts are available for these systems.
The higher cost of operating a metal halide system is a result of power
usage and bulb replacement costs. Magnetic ballasts for a 175-watt
system draw 1.8 amps of power, and electronic ballasts draw 1.47 amps.
The electrical cost of operating a metal halide system with a magnetic
ballast for 10 hours per day, at an average of $.08 per Kilowatt, is
approximately $4.75 per month. The same system with an electronic
ballast operating for the same amount of time will cost approximately
$3.88 per month. The average life of a metal halide bulb is between 6
and 18 months depending on the type of ballast and the number of hours
that the bulb is used per day.
Even though metal halide systems are expensive, they are actually very
efficient. Watt for watt, they produce more light than other systems.
But because they are used to produce so much light, they do have high
energy costs. Trying to produce that much light using other systems
would require far too many bulbs or, in reality, be impossible.
The bulbs of a metal halide system produce a large amount of heat that
will both warm the air within the lighting hood as well as warm the
aquarium water through its radiant heat. Circulation fans are a must
with these systems in order to remove the hot air from the lighting
hood. Also, a water chiller is typically needed, unless the aquarium
water is purposefully being maintained at a high temperature. Raising
the lighting system off of the top of the aquarium by at least 8" can
reduce the amount of heat that is transferred to the water. This will
allow greater air circulation and will reduce the amount of radiant heat
added to the water.
/>In addition to heat, there are other drawbacks associated with metal
halide systems. When in operation, these bulbs become very hot to the
touch. The bulb could potentially explode if it is splashed with water
while in operation. Furthermore, these bulbs emit some harmful
ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Either glass tops should be used to cover
the aquarium, or the lighting system needs to be covered by glass. The
glass will eliminate both the chance of the bulb being splashed and will
reduce the amount of UV rays that enter the water.
Glitter lines in an aquarium produced by a metal halide lightMetal
halides are different than the other lighting sources mentioned thus
far. They are an intense light source coming from a small area that
produces an effect that is referred to as glitter lines. Glitter lines
are light waves that have been intensified by the movement of the
surface of the water. If looking at a pool of water in the sunshine, you
will notice light waves dancing on the bottom of the pool as the surface
water of the pool moves. These intensified light rays not only produce
an attractive effect on the aquarium, but have also been speculated to
provide benefits for photosynthesis within corals.
A metal halide system is useful for any aquarium setup that demands high
light intensities. It is useful for very tall, fish-only aquariums where
the light intensity is needed to illuminate the entire aquarium. This
type of lighting is also ideal for freshwater planted and saltwater reef
aquariums.
Reef Sun metal halide system for aquariumsMetal halide: Metal halide
bulbs are similar to incandescent bulbs in appearance, but offer higher
intensities and wattages. Metal halides also offer spectrum ranges that
have been designed for the aquarium industry. A metal halide light
consists of a glass bulb with a series of wires connected to another
glass bulb within it. When electricity passes through this ********
glass bulb, it causes the gas to produce light. The base of the bulb is
threaded like an incandescent lamp, but requires a special socket,
called a mogul, that is specific to that system. The ballast required to
operate this system is typically located in the cabinet below the
aquarium, where the heat it produces will not be added to the aquarium.
There is a wide range of bulbs available for the metal halide systems
with spectrums ranging from 4000K up to 20,000K, and intensities ranging
from 175 watts up to 1000 watts. The metal halide bulbs are expensive;
the higher the wattage of the system, the more expensive the bulbs. Bulb
prices range from $60 to $120 each for a 175-watt system. Along with the
increase in price for bulbs, the higher wattage systems require an
increased amount of electricity needed to operate the system.
Metal halide lighting systems are in the high price range for both
initial and operating costs. Initial cost will vary depending on the
type of ballast and bulb that is included with the system. Magnetic and
electronic ballasts are available for these systems.
The higher cost of operating a metal halide system is a result of power
usage and bulb replacement costs. Magnetic ballasts for a 175-watt
system draw 1.8 amps of power, and electronic ballasts draw 1.47 amps.
The electrical cost of operating a metal halide system with a magnetic
ballast for 10 hours per day, at an average of $.08 per Kilowatt, is
approximately $4.75 per month. The same system with an electronic
ballast operating for the same amount of time will cost approximately
$3.88 per month. The average life of a metal halide bulb is between 6
and 18 months depending on the type of ballast and the number of hours
that the bulb is used per day.
Even though metal halide systems are expensive, they are actually very
efficient. Watt for watt, they produce more light than other systems.
But because they are used to produce so much light, they do have high
energy costs. Trying to produce that much light using other systems
would require far too many bulbs or, in reality, be impossible.
The bulbs of a metal halide system produce a large amount of heat that
will both warm the air within the lighting hood as well as warm the
aquarium water through its radiant heat. Circulation fans are a must
with these systems in order to remove the hot air from the lighting
hood. Also, a water chiller is typically needed, unless the aquarium
water is purposefully being maintained at a high temperature. Raising
the lighting system off of the top of the aquarium by at least 8" can
reduce the amount of heat that is transferred to the water. This will
allow greater air circulation and will reduce the amount of radiant heat
added to the water.
/>In addition to heat, there are other drawbacks associated with metal
halide systems. When in operation, these bulbs become very hot to the
touch. The bulb could potentially explode if it is splashed with water
while in operation. Furthermore, these bulbs emit some harmful
ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Either glass tops should be used to cover
the aquarium, or the lighting system needs to be covered by glass. The
glass will eliminate both the chance of the bulb being splashed and will
reduce the amount of UV rays that enter the water.
Glitter lines in an aquarium produced by a metal halide lightMetal
halides are different than the other lighting sources mentioned thus
far. They are an intense light source coming from a small area that
produces an effect that is referred to as glitter lines. Glitter lines
are light waves that have been intensified by the movement of the
surface of the water. If looking at a pool of water in the sunshine, you
will notice light waves dancing on the bottom of the pool as the surface
water of the pool moves. These intensified light rays not only produce
an attractive effect on the aquarium, but have also been speculated to
provide benefits for photosynthesis within corals.
A metal halide system is useful for any aquarium setup that demands high
light intensities. It is useful for very tall, fish-only aquariums where
the light intensity is needed to illuminate the entire aquarium. This
type of lighting is also ideal for freshwater planted and saltwater reef
aquariums.
rykna
Active Member
Saltwater reef aquariums
Reef aquariumThe type of light provided for a saltwater reef aquarium is very important due to the fact that the corals and invertebrates that live in the system rely on light for a major portion of their nutritional needs. The intensity of light that corals and invertebrates require varies dramatically. This is due in part to the varying landscape of the reef and the adaptations that many corals have made to survive in low light conditions. If the correct spectrum and intensity of light is not provided for these organisms, their survival rate will be poor.
Most of the corals that are collected for the hobby come from areas surrounding the reef at a depth of 15 to 65 feet. In the wild, they receive light that is primarily blue in color with a high Kelvin rating.
As with any aquarium, when considering different types of lighting, both the initial and operating costs, intensity and spectrum of the lighting, and the heat that is associated with the unit must be considered. Due to the high costs involved with lighting systems for reef aquariums, they tend to be one of the major expenses of the installation. Not only is the initial expense high, but also the amount of electricity needed to run these systems. Also, depending on the type of lighting, the regular bulb changes can be very costly and will add to the operating costs.
A general rule, to correctly light a reef aquarium that is 24" deep or less, provide between 4 to 6 watts of light per gallon. Of course there are exceptions to this rule. Aquariums that are shallow, 16" or less, do not require the intensities of taller aquariums. Also, a reef aquarium could be set up to house both corals and invertebrates that require low levels of light, as well as non photosynthetic invertebrates. In no case would I suggest going below 2 watts per gallon when photosynthetic invertebrates are to be kept.
Because of the conditions in nature, all invertebrates have adapted to use light that is from the blue side of the spectrum. There are bulbs available for most lighting systems that focus on this wavelength. For example, fluorescent systems offer bulbs that are strictly blue in color. These bulbs are called actinic. Although most corals and invertebrates can be successfully grown under blue light, this type of setup can be unpleasing to the eye. So, most systems will employ actinic bulbs for the health of the system in conjunction with another light source that is mostly white in color for aesthetics. A general rule for reef aquariums is to provide approximately ½ of the light from actinic bulbs and ½ from bulbs producing white light in the range of 8000 to 12000 K. This mixture of lighting provides the invertebrates with the spectrum that is necessary for growth, and produces the spectrum that is necessary for accurate color rendition within the aquarium.
Reef aquariumThe type of light provided for a saltwater reef aquarium is very important due to the fact that the corals and invertebrates that live in the system rely on light for a major portion of their nutritional needs. The intensity of light that corals and invertebrates require varies dramatically. This is due in part to the varying landscape of the reef and the adaptations that many corals have made to survive in low light conditions. If the correct spectrum and intensity of light is not provided for these organisms, their survival rate will be poor.
Most of the corals that are collected for the hobby come from areas surrounding the reef at a depth of 15 to 65 feet. In the wild, they receive light that is primarily blue in color with a high Kelvin rating.
As with any aquarium, when considering different types of lighting, both the initial and operating costs, intensity and spectrum of the lighting, and the heat that is associated with the unit must be considered. Due to the high costs involved with lighting systems for reef aquariums, they tend to be one of the major expenses of the installation. Not only is the initial expense high, but also the amount of electricity needed to run these systems. Also, depending on the type of lighting, the regular bulb changes can be very costly and will add to the operating costs.
A general rule, to correctly light a reef aquarium that is 24" deep or less, provide between 4 to 6 watts of light per gallon. Of course there are exceptions to this rule. Aquariums that are shallow, 16" or less, do not require the intensities of taller aquariums. Also, a reef aquarium could be set up to house both corals and invertebrates that require low levels of light, as well as non photosynthetic invertebrates. In no case would I suggest going below 2 watts per gallon when photosynthetic invertebrates are to be kept.
Because of the conditions in nature, all invertebrates have adapted to use light that is from the blue side of the spectrum. There are bulbs available for most lighting systems that focus on this wavelength. For example, fluorescent systems offer bulbs that are strictly blue in color. These bulbs are called actinic. Although most corals and invertebrates can be successfully grown under blue light, this type of setup can be unpleasing to the eye. So, most systems will employ actinic bulbs for the health of the system in conjunction with another light source that is mostly white in color for aesthetics. A general rule for reef aquariums is to provide approximately ½ of the light from actinic bulbs and ½ from bulbs producing white light in the range of 8000 to 12000 K. This mixture of lighting provides the invertebrates with the spectrum that is necessary for growth, and produces the spectrum that is necessary for accurate color rendition within the aquarium.
g-stacks
Member
This is what it comes with 2 65 Watt - 21 Inch 50/50 Power Compact Lamp with Straight Pin Base.
50/50 lamps combine 50% 10,000K with 50% True Actinic 03 Blue phosphors for essential biological reactions.
At a 130 watts thats 4.5 watts per gallon so it shouldl be decent for now right?
50/50 lamps combine 50% 10,000K with 50% True Actinic 03 Blue phosphors for essential biological reactions.
At a 130 watts thats 4.5 watts per gallon so it shouldl be decent for now right?
rykna
Active Member
Originally Posted by G-Stacks
This is what it comes with 2 65 Watt - 21 Inch 50/50 Power Compact Lamp with Straight Pin Base.
50/50 lamps combine 50% 10,000K with 50% True Actinic 03 Blue phosphors for essential biological reactions.
At a 130 watts thats 4.5 watts per gallon so it shouldl be decent for now right?
It should be, but lighting is not my specialty, I'd ask Darth. I just bought the best out there for my 90 gallon so I knew I could put anything in there.
This is what it comes with 2 65 Watt - 21 Inch 50/50 Power Compact Lamp with Straight Pin Base.
50/50 lamps combine 50% 10,000K with 50% True Actinic 03 Blue phosphors for essential biological reactions.
At a 130 watts thats 4.5 watts per gallon so it shouldl be decent for now right?
It should be, but lighting is not my specialty, I'd ask Darth. I just bought the best out there for my 90 gallon so I knew I could put anything in there.
g-stacks
Member
Not so well, I just about gave up on fish keeping after my anemone began to shrivle up
and my ph dropped to 7.6 and nitrates were at 2.0
. After that i went to check out the price of a canister filter
(they get expensive) and then i hear that i dont have enought light after i thought i did. But then came to my senses and decided to keep trying if my anemone makes it, then i will go pick up my canister filter continue buying LR untill my tank has a good 35 lbs. of it and continue to enjoy this expensive hobby. But we will see.
colourmop
Member
post a picture of your tank! 
also make sure the LR are cured (my LFS sold me uncured LR as cured before....).
for a 30gal you may want to get a MH or atleast something like a T5, watt/gal aint THAT important depend on the type of light(specially for anemone) I think they'd do great under MH light, you could try one of those sun-pod 150W MH.
I currently have no 'offical' filtration system for my 24gal(cannister etc etc) but I do have tons of LR, a TSB and a refug, they are really nice once you have them set-up (dont need to clean etc etc)
also make sure the LR are cured (my LFS sold me uncured LR as cured before....).
for a 30gal you may want to get a MH or atleast something like a T5, watt/gal aint THAT important depend on the type of light(specially for anemone) I think they'd do great under MH light, you could try one of those sun-pod 150W MH.
I currently have no 'offical' filtration system for my 24gal(cannister etc etc) but I do have tons of LR, a TSB and a refug, they are really nice once you have them set-up (dont need to clean etc etc)
g-stacks
Member
Originally Posted by colourmop
post a picture of your tank!
also make sure the LR are cured (my LFS sold me uncured LR as cured before....).
for a 30gal you may want to get a MH or atleast something like a T5, watt/gal aint THAT important depend on the type of light(specially for anemone) I think they'd do great under MH light, you could try one of those sun-pod 150W MH.
I currently have no 'offical' filtration system for my 24gal(cannister etc etc) but I do have tons of LR, a TSB and a refug, they are really nice once you have them set-up (dont need to clean etc etc)
They claim its cured LR but how cani tell?
post a picture of your tank!
also make sure the LR are cured (my LFS sold me uncured LR as cured before....).
for a 30gal you may want to get a MH or atleast something like a T5, watt/gal aint THAT important depend on the type of light(specially for anemone) I think they'd do great under MH light, you could try one of those sun-pod 150W MH.
I currently have no 'offical' filtration system for my 24gal(cannister etc etc) but I do have tons of LR, a TSB and a refug, they are really nice once you have them set-up (dont need to clean etc etc)
They claim its cured LR but how cani tell?
rykna
Active Member
Originally Posted by G-Stacks
I white bubble tip anemone. I found it this morning caught in my filter tube shriveled up (I think it committed suicide)
That's typical with a dying anemone, even a healthy one. make sure you cover up your intakes with sponges or something, or this will continue to claim other tank victims.
I white bubble tip anemone. I found it this morning caught in my filter tube shriveled up (I think it committed suicide)
That's typical with a dying anemone, even a healthy one. make sure you cover up your intakes with sponges or something, or this will continue to claim other tank victims.