any input on a refuge

biglurr545

Member
1 first stage box stuffed with pre filter
2 box with bio balls water spread out evenly and dripped on the balls
3 macro algae in 10 gallon tank with 32 watt pc light with walls to keep substrate and algae away from pumps and pipes
4 return pump either out through side or straight up
5 protein skimmer probably a prism hang on
6 intake from over flow box with valve to adjust water flow so it equals the pump
7 return to tank through a uv sterilizer then out a spray bar
Additional info: 1 + 2 will be mounted above the 10 gallon tank and water will run through pipe to 10 gallon so it doesn’t interfere with the light 10 gallon tank will be used as main sump and a 5 gallon tank for the wet dry part of filter. This will be for a 46 gallon bow show reef with thoughts of later upgrading to 72 bow and a 30 gallon fuge. Also in fuge that’s not pictured is grounding probe and heater
Reverse osmosis unit will be separate for water changes and top offs
Over flow will be 8 inches long and 1 inch outlet 600 gph
 

jasenhicks

Member
If you keep the water high enough to support a hang-on skimmer you will overflow your sump. If the power goes out, you will still be gravity draining water down into the sump untill the water line goes below your standpipe, if the water is high in the 10gal already it will overflow. Your setting yourself up for failure with this. Keep the water low in the pump section to ensure you have some room for overflow if the power goes out. My water line in my sump where the pump is, only 6" high and my sump is 18" high. The idea behind it is good, but keep the water flow physics in mind. Also, instead of using 1 wall for the seperation between the fuge and return area, id recommend using 3 one low, one high, and one low to keep the bubbles out of the pump area. And also, the auto topoff from the RO unit is good, i use that idea too. Put that in the pump area because thats where you will see water level lower as water evaporates.
 

biglurr545

Member
ok so i think i might try to find a taller tank for this maybe like a 20 tall or 15 and ill scratch the prizm skimmer and get an in tank skimmer how do you have your rodi top off set up? this is my first sump design and i havent looked into top off systems yet so im goign into this blind so any info and pics you can send me would be great. you deffinetly saved me and my floor from alot of water already lol never thought about needing room for the water in the pipes thanks again
 

jasenhicks

Member
Well my sump is a custom acrylic sump bchbum built me, very good prices. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the side and installed a float valve. Up its shut, down its open. I then ran a 1/4" rigid tube from it to my 55 gallon drum that my RO/DI fills up. I installed a bulkhead in the bottom of it, used a few converters and tube sizes, and hooked up the 1/4" to the drum. Water gets low, the valve opens up , the water is gravity drained to the sump. Simple, and no electronics invovled.
 

biglurr545

Member
how do you get a float valve? can they be made? do you add any salt to the filtered water to compesate for the salt crust that build up? i have a good idea now hoe to do one if i could see a float valve and how it works
 

jasenhicks

Member
Kent marine makes them, i think they may sell them here. I add no salt to the filtered water because when the water in the tank evaporates it leaves the salt in the tank and only the water goes away. I wouldnt make one, they are only 10-15 dollars, thats too cheap to worry about it. I just sweep the salt crust back into my tank when im tidying up.
 

biglurr545

Member
i couldnt find it on this site but im guessing there easy to come by how does it work though can you make it work either way like floats up open valve or floats up valve closes? and anyone else have any input on the wet dry fuge i wanna make sure its flaw less be for i make it the other thing is i thought about getting two pumps to pump the water back so i dont need power heads or should i allow the water more time in the fuge and filter to get real clean
 

jasenhicks

Member
If you want to get rid of power heads, get a SCWD. It randomly redirects your flow from one outlet nozzle to another. They are around $35, require no power, and is put on the outlet of your return pump. I had one for a while, and loved it. Do some searches on google and you can find all sorts of info on it.
Float vavlve, yes can be float up open, or sink down open. Either way. I did sink down open so that it refilled my sump to make up for evaporation.
 
Top