Anyone with 120 Gallon Reef

florida joe

Well-Known Member
I see where you posted another thread about your questions on your returns into your DT. Can you post a pic of what pluming hardware came with the tank.You should have a least 4 bulkheads. for you overflows and returns you need to make sure you have them installed in the right orientation.
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Ok, Cam, this is crude, but hopefully you'll get the idea. As Joe stated, overflow lines and return lines should be as straight as possible to reduce friction. The return line is shown bent just because of the drawing.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Ok Randy he really needs a camera to start postng pics of what he has. Right off the bat my first question is how does he prevent the water from his 55 and tank with the live rock from overflowing the sump if he losses his return pump. IMO he needs the three tanks on the same level
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3206918
Ok Randy he really needs a camera to start postng pics of what he has. Right off the bat my first question is how does he prevent the water from his 55 and tank with the live rock from overflowing the sump if he losses his return pump. IMO he needs the three tanks on the same level
With this design Joe, both the LR tank and the 55 are fitted with overflows. Thus when the power shuts down, only the upper portion drains into the sump, same as a regular tank system. LR tank would have a home-made overflow, with PVC forming an L inside the tank, holes drilled in the top portion of the pipe. 55 could have the more tradition overflow style.
 

cam78

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3206871
I see where you posted another thread about your questions on your returns into your DT. Can you post a pic of what pluming hardware came with the tank.You should have a least 4 bulkheads. for you overflows and returns you need to make sure you have them installed in the right orientation.
Sure. Let me go pick them up. Long story, had to make two trips and haven't made the 2nd yet. I might get it today. As soon as I do I will post the pics of the hardware.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Sorry randy I did not see the overflow box in the 55. But now he must make sure the overflow GPH in his DT is greater then the gph of his return. but the return pump is not so strong that it sucks the water out of the 55 faster then it crests over the overflow yet still be strong enough to handle the head pressure of the system. I think the wise thing for him to do at this point is work on the DT set up the overflow and return lines coming into and out of the tank. Mock up his pvc with out gluing and position his DT make where he would have to drill the floor and check the ceiling from the basement for any encroachment of his drilling.. . If all looks good he can drill a pilot hole in the floor drop a line though attach a plum bob mark the floor so he will have reference points for what he needs to do in the basement
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3207013
Sorry randy I did not see the overflow box in the 55. But now he must make sure the overflow GPH in his DT is greater then the gph of his return. but the return pump is not so strong that it sucks the water out of the 55 faster then it crests over the overflow the water to be sucked below the OF yet still be strong enough to handle the head pressure of the system
Correct Joe, thats also why all the main overflow lines are plumbed with ball valves. if the return capacity of the pump is slightly too low, he can throttle down the overflowes. He'll also what to include a ball value on the return line (which I forgot to show), so he can throttle down the return pump if it is slightly too strong and tends to suck the sump dry. So long as all the overflows are plumbed the same as the original overflows in the tank, calculating overflow vs. return shouldn't be too complicated.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
yes i agree i also added some more to my previous post do you agree. My only concern is all the use of valves to control flow. the chance of valve getting clogs with out a full bore and As i am sure you know he may spend the rest of his life balancing and continuing to constantly balance his fluid circulation system. What about kicking around and presenting to him the idea of connecting his 55 and the smaller LR tank and using a dedicated pump in the 55 for the return use one of his overflows piped to the 55 and the other to his sump. This could give him straight vertical lines to and from both floors of his home
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3207031
yes i agree i also added some more to my previous post do you agree. My only concern is all the use of valves to control flow. the chance of valve getting clogs with out a full bore and As i am sure you know he may spend the rest of his live balancing and continuing to constantly balance his fluid circulation system

Originally Posted by florida joe

http:///forum/post/3207013
I think the wise thing for him to do at this point is work on the DT set up the overflow and return lines coming into and out of the tank. Mock up his pvc with out gluing and position his DT make where he would have to drill the floor and check the ceiling from the basement for any encroachment of his drilling.. . If all looks good he can drill a pilot hole in the floor drop a line though attach a plum bob mark the floor so he will have reference points for what he needs to do in the basement
I agree Joe, although if he needs to have the containers and tanks drilled for the overflows, he may want to get started on that as well.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
What about kicking around and presenting to him the idea of connecting his 55 and the smaller LR tank and using a dedicated pump in the 55 for the return use one of his overflows piped to the 55 and the other to his sump. This could give him straight vertical lines to and from both floors of his home
what are your thoughts on this
to the OP (what is your name by the way)This is something way down the line but you may want to consider it. check the quality of your tap water. If it is not to bad use a hose adapter from a Faust in your home to fill your system and check for leaks. After any issues are addressed you can add water conditioners and start adding salt to the tap water in your system. From then on you can go with RO for water changes and top off.
BTW I envy you I wish I had a basement, to have a walk around filtration system . It leaves you with unlimited possibility's
 

cam78

Active Member
Did not read all of the responses since I left but here is the kit and a picture of the tank.



 

cam78

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3207085
what are your thoughts on this
to the OP (what is your name by the way)This is something way down the line but you may want to consider it. check the quality of your tap water. If it is not to bad use a hose adapter from a Faust in your home to fill your system and check for leaks. After any issues are addressed you can add water conditioners and start adding salt to the tap water in your system. From then on you can go with RO for water changes and top off.
BTW I envy you I wish I had a basement, to have a walk around filtration system . It leaves you with unlimited possibility's
Sorry Joe, my name is Carlo. Yes I am very lucky to have a basement like this. I am a blessed person in life. As for this project all your talk with Randy is honestly scaring me LOL. About the water quality....I currently have reef tank and was hoping to have it all transfered over so I am not sure if that could work using my tap water then doing WC's with R/O. I have a RO unit that is right next to where the sump and everything is gonna go. So I might just start filling from there.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
OK I am sure you know this but I am going over it for my own benefit as if this was my setup. I would take the 4 bulkheads install them, one 1inch and one 3/4 in each overflow box making sure the gasket was inside the tank and locking nut on the outside. Is there a hole drilled in the side of your overflow box near the top for the the return line to feed into your DT
 

cam78

Active Member
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I know they aren't MH but they were in the package. What can I keep with these?

 

cam78

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3207129
OK I am sure you know this but I am going over it for my own benefit as if this was my setup. I would take the 4 bulkheads install them, one 1inch and one 3/4 in each overflow box making sure the gasket was inside the tank and locking nut on the outside. Is there a hole drilled in the side of your overflow box near the top for the the return line to feed into your DT
On both sides of both overflows there are two area where they are not holes but looked like they can be punched out. They look like perforated circles near the top on the sides. Is that what you mean?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by CAM78
http:///forum/post/3207138
On both sides of both overflows there are two area where they are not holes but looked like they can be punched out. They look like perforated circles near the top on the sides. Is that what you mean?
Yes do you know how to set up your return line in the overflow box
 

cam78

Active Member
Just saw on the instruction sheet that is what the perforated thing is for. So to answer your question...YES!!! Im sorry but I have to cut his short. I am gonna get ready for work, Im a cop crazy hours. Will check on here in a little while though. Thanks!!!!
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by CAM78
http:///forum/post/3207141
Just saw on the instruction sheet that is what the perforated thing is for. So to answer your question...YES!!! Im sorry but I have to cut his short. I am gonna get ready for work, Im a cop crazy hours. Will check on here in a little while though. Thanks!!!!
no problem stay safe
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3207031
yes i agree i also added some more to my previous post do you agree. My only concern is all the use of valves to control flow. the chance of valve getting clogs with out a full bore and As i am sure you know he may spend the rest of his life balancing and continuing to constantly balance his fluid circulation system. What about kicking around and presenting to him the idea of connecting his 55 and the smaller LR tank and using a dedicated pump in the 55 for the return use one of his overflows piped to the 55 and the other to his sump. This could give him straight vertical lines to and from both floors of his home
I agree Joe that the best thing is to get a pump that will operate as close to full bore as we can - just want him to include the ball valves "in case" he needs to do a little adjusting. Not sure what you're suggesting here, are you looking to plumb everything into the 55, and then into the sump or you looking to chamberize the 55 and include the sump. The reason I suggested the seperate fuge, is to provide an opportunity for restricted flow through the fuge. Everyone is always talking about how algae absorbed nutrients better with contact time, since he has the space and the tanks, I figure he oughta go for it - 55 gallons of water in long contact time with macro algaes should give pretty good filtration. If I understand what you are suggesting correctly, we would end up with two seperate overflows and two seperate returns, and I would thing that again, this would cause a major headache when trying to balance the two.
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3207085
BTW I envy you I wish I had a basement, to have a walk around filtration system . It leaves you with unlimited possibility's
Yeah, makes me wish I would have put my DT on the main floor instead of in the basement.
Originally Posted by CAM78

http:///forum/post/3207122
Sorry Joe, my name is Carlo. Yes I am very lucky to have a basement like this. I am a blessed person in life. As for this project all your talk with Randy is honestly scaring me LOL. About the water quality....I currently have reef tank and was hoping to have it all transfered over so I am not sure if that could work using my tap water then doing WC's with R/O. I have a RO unit that is right next to where the sump and everything is gonna go. So I might just start filling from there.
Carlo, don't let Joe and I scare you, we've both been playing this game for a long time (Joe much longer than me of course :) - we'll walk you through step by step if thats what you need/want. Correct then, use the RO water, not the tap.
Originally Posted by florida joe

http:///forum/post/3207145
no problem stay safe
Ditto that ^
 
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