Aquarium Sharks Information

risc

Member
Aquarium Sharks
Sharks are from 6 inches to 50 feet. The ones collected for aquariums are generally 3 feet to 14 feet. There are a few species that only grow to about 20 inches that can also be acquired but they are much more expensive because of their lack of being collected.
Here is a breakdown and information on the basic types of sharks available in the aquarium trade.
Bamboo Sharks (Bamboos and Epaulettes):
There are many bamboo sharks that are available in the trade, but I will touch on a few of the more popular. These sharks are ideal for most shark beginners. They easily adapt and once accustomed to their home and surroundings will feed regularly. These sharks have very rapid digestive systems and will feed generally every day. It is not recommended to feed them every day. Even if your bamboo shark is going around eating your hermits and snails, do not feed them every day. A good rule of thumb for these sharks is to feed them once every two days when they are young (16 inches or smaller) and then wait out for three days when they are adults. Don’t worry about them starving to death… these sharks can go for weeks without food. All bamboo sharks can be housed in tanks less than 300 gallons. I personally recommend for white and brown banded bamboos and epaulettes a 540 gallon due to their more active nature and radial body width. Generally speaking all bamboos grow about 6 to 7 inches a year. Epaulettes have been known to grow as much as 11. If your shark grows faster than that your tank is too warm and you are feeding too much. Optimal conditions are 76 degrees and regularly spaced feeding days. Bamboo sharks breed in captivity exceptionally well. I have been witness to this happening about five times myself. I have hatched hundred of bamboos from eggs with a loss only around five or six after birth because they refused to feed. Hatching bamboos from eggs should not be done by a first time shark owner. You could be biting off far more than you can chew, especially if you can’t get it to eat. Normal bamboo diets consist of fish, shrimp, mollusks, crabs, and some worms. I personally feed all of mine squid, octopus, fish, and shrimp. Average cost for Bamboo setup and upkeep $2,800.
Bullhead Sharks (Horn sharks and Port Jackson sharks, etc)
These sharks do excellent in aquariums and they are really inexpensive. They are generally cold water sharks from 55 to 70 degrees. I have acclimated mine to live in 75-80 degree water. These sharks live very long lives… and can successfully housed in an aquarium for 20 or more years. The Horn shark is the smallest of them growing to only around 40 inches and weighing about 22-24 pounds they make excellent aquarium inhabitants for tanks around 300 gallons. These sharks will generally eat regularly without fault. They will accept any seafood I’ve found from experience. They are very friendly to other tank mates and to you as their owner. Mine will surface to the top of the aquarium when he sees me and pokes his nose and eyes out and lets me touch him. This maybe because every time I do that he gets some sort of treat… but none the less it shows that they can learn from experience and get to realize you as their owner. They tend to spend most of the day in hiding (darkness) if they can find it. If you own one of these sharks it’s a good idea to build them a little rock work home or place to hide when your lights are on in the tank. If you want him to come out of hiding so you can show him off just offer it up a little treat like octopus and they will instantly come out of hiding. The Port Jackson shark grows much larger for the species and attains a length around 5 feet. They grow an average of 2 to 3 inches per year. Egg cases are sometimes found available for these in the aquarium trade. These sharks will need aquariums in the area of 800 to 1,000 gallons. Average cost for Bullhead shark setup and upkeep $3,100.
Blind Sharks and Carpet Sharks:
Neither of these shark species is seen too often in the trade but I will talk a little about them in case anyone is interested in trying to acquire them. These are both cold water sharks living in 55 to 70 degree water. Both of these species of sharks spend almost 90% of the day in hiding places. So you need to construct ample spaces for them to wedge their bodies into during the daylight. Blind sharks grow to about 4 feet but you generally don’t find them growing that large in home aquariums. They eat almost any seafood and tank mate small enough to fit in their mouth. They have been known to regularly breed in captivity. They require a tank of around 500 gallons due to the extensive amount of aquascaping needed. Carpet sharks generally grow to a length of about 32 inches and they required the same aquascaping requirements of Blind sharks. They however can all live in tanks around 200 gallons. Carpet sharks love squid, shrimp, and snails. They can be made to eat other types of seafood as well. These sharks breed exceptionally well in captivity. Thousands of reported cases have been made. Average cost for Blind shark or Carpet shark setup and upkeep $3,000.
Catsharks (coral cat, marbled cat, swell shark, spotted cat, tiger cat, cloudy cat, leopard cat, shyshark, puffaddershark, etc)
There are more than 100 species of cat shark and all of them have their own unique coloring and beauty. They live over 20 years and many of them can be housed together. All catsharks are cold water sharks and need a tank 60 to 68 degrees. This shark is especially easy to keep and an excellent beginner shark. Catsharks spend most of their days hiding about in reef rock and crevices. They search for food at night and feed on just about every type of seafood. All of the species are generally born at 3.5 to 4 inches and grow to about 23 to 30 inches. There are a few species that will grow to around 40 inches. Most species of catsharks can live out their entire life in 100 gallon tanks. There are few exceptions like swell sharks, pufferadders, pyjama, leopard, black spotted, and small spotted that will need tanks of around 300 gallons. Almost every catshark has breed actively in captivity. Catsharks may look shy but they are very aggressive feeders. They have been known to eat tank mates up to five times the length of their body. Obviously not consuming their entire carcass, but eating what they can digest. Average cost for Catshark setup and upkeep $3,000.
Nurse Sharks (tawny and common):
Nurse sharks are born at about 10 inches in length. They grow about 12 inches a year and about 6 pounds so if you plan on getting one… plan years in advance for their rapid growth. These sharks can attain a maximum length of 15 to 16 feet but most never get over 12. The largest being the Tawny nurse shark is rarely captured for home aquariums. These sharks are EXTREMELY easy to keep. They have an unheard of immunity to fluctuating tank conditions. They don’t seem to care if the tank is 88 degrees or 65 degrees. Diseases rarely if ever affect these sharks. They can live in low and high salinity conditions. The only problem with them is that they will outgrow any normal home system. These sharks will eat any and every piece of seafood given to them. They don’t have preferences and will even eat cubed prepared foods. Nurse sharks will devour and swallow whole any tank make slow enough to be caught or dumb enough to get pinned in corners. They are ferocious feeders and will not stop until their prey is consumed in entirety. Nurse sharks are also not sensitive to copper like other sharks. They will breed in captivity and can live to over 25 years of age. It’s been said this shark can live in tanks around 5,000-5,200 gallons… I however would not recommend any tank less than 10,000 gallons. Average cost for Nurse shark setup and upkeep $6,000 to $15,000.
Hammerhead Sharks (bonnethead):
Bonnetheads are about the only type of hammerhead shark known to do well in captivity. They are born at about 14 inches in length and grow to about 5 feet. They only grow a little over a foot a year. They also don’t live very long. Their life span is only estimated to be around 12 years for females and even less for males. Bonnetheads eat mostly shrimp and crab; they can also be feed squid, octopus, and other marine life. Bonnetheads is on the list of sharks that shouldn’t be purchased by average home hobbyists. They require better than excellent care. If you do get a Bonnethead shark you should hire an aquarium service technician with a lot of shark experience to do all your tank upkeep for 6 months. After 6 months your bonnethead should be sufficiently broken-in to your tank environment to live out the rest of its life. This is of course as long as you can provide the same care the technician could. It has been written that bonnetheads can live in 2,500 to 2,800 gallon aquariums… but I wouldn’t ever house them in less than 5,000 gallon tanks. Average cost for Bonnethead setup and upkeep $10,000.
 

risc

Member
Angel Sharks:
Born at 9 to 10 inches, these sharks grow to a little less than 5 feet. They are very difficult to keep and require monitoring on a 10 to 12 hour basis in your home aquarium. Longest recorded angel shark living in captivity is close to around two years. They are cold water sharks and should be kept around 60-70 degrees. They spend most of their time in the sand but they are nomadic and will travel in excess of a mile in the wild, so a large tank is required to suit them. Suggested tank size for them is 800 gallons… but I keep mine in an 11,000+ gallon pond. Mine are currently one year and four months old. These have never been known to breed in captivity but when they do they have a liter of up to twenty but usually only around ten. I feed them fish only and only at night. It is essential to establish routine feeding times with these sharks or they will most likely never accept food from you. Average cost for Angel shark setup and upkeep $12,000.
Smoothhound Sharks (grey, brown, and leopard)
Grey and Brown smoothhounds are born at about 8 inches in length. They grow about 6 inches a year and live to about 7 years for males and 10 for females. They grow to about 4 feet in length. These sharks love shrimp, squid, and prepared cubed foods. They are cold water sharks living normally 55 to 70 degree water. These sharks will jump out of tanks if the situation allows them to. They need great care and proper tank conditions. They have very thin skin and rock work can cause wounds that can contract bacterial infections. These sharks require a minimum 1,500 gallon tank, but are best suited in 2,000 gallon rounds. The Leopard shark grows much larger, attaining a maximum length of 6 feet. They eat much the same food as Greys and Browns… and they thrive in the cold temperature water as well. I have had them in 78 degree water before and there have been no ill-effects. Leopard sharks will live to over 20 years and are known to breed in captivity. They require a tank in the area of 4,500 to 5,000 gallons for their comfort. Average cost for Smoothhound setup and upkeep $3,500 for grey and brown $12,000 for leopard.
Requiem sharks (Blacktips, Whitetips, Sand Tiger, and Lemons):
All of these sharks are not well suited for home aquariums. All of these sharks have special needs in sizes, filtration, aquascaping, tank mates, and dietary needs. These sharks need excellently planned tank construction. Squared walls are definite no-no. Circular or oval tanks are ideal so if you have to go with a squared tank make sure you use something to buffer the corners or add some material to round them off or soften them. If a requiem shark is started and smashes into the side of a tank its chances for death are great. Blacktips are the easiest to keep of all of them. They are born around 13 to 16 inches and grow to a length of about 6 feet. They generally feed on reef fish and invertebrates. They also have been known to hunt down and eat stingrays. These are warm water sharks that require a tank around 3,800 for square and 6,000 for round. The Whitetip is born at about 21 inches and grows to near 7 feet. Whitetips have the same eating habits as Blacktips and will eat all tank mates. They are known to breed readily in captivity. They require a tank of 6,500 gallons for square and 9,000 gallons for round. Sand Tiger sharks are born at around 30 to 40 inches and attain a maximum length of around 10 to 11 feet. These are fairly un-aggressive fish but will eat all tank mates as well as invertebrates. They have been known to live around 10 years in captivity. They require a tank of 10,000 gallons for square and 15,000 for round. Lemon sharks are born at around 24 inches and attain a maximum length of 11 feet. They grow around 7 inches per year and do very well in captivity. Lemon sharks can lie about on the bottom of an aquarium at times like nurse sharks… but generally speaking they will continue to swim at all hours of the day. Lemon sharks need professional care and shouldn’t be kept by average hobbyists even if you have an exceptionally large aquarium. Lemons should be fed every two days to insure they are eating regularly and properly. They will bite the aquarist and they will eat all other tank mates. Lemons need a tank of 10,000 gallons square and 13,000 gallons round. Average cost for Black or Whitetips setup and upkeep $14,000 to $16,000 for Sand Tigers and Lemons $25,000 to $30,000.
Wobbegongs (Cobbler’s, Tasseled, Spotted, Japanese, Ward’s, Ornate)
Wobbegongs, sometimes called Wobbies, are a rather expensive shark to keep for the average hobbiest. Not only do they cost a decent amount, but their feeding can be irregular and sometimes it’s obscene how much they can consume. They are all born at a size of about 7 to 8 inches. The range greatly in size; so much so that some can be kept in 125 gallon tanks and others need a good 4,500 gallons or better. They are difficult to manage and keep happy. They often refuse to eat for weeks at a time. Wobbegongs are intolerant to temperature fluctuations and salinity fluctuations and anything drastic in either of the two will kill them quickly. Wobbegongs are ambush predators and their eye sight isn’t all that great. They will and have been known to repeatedly attack humans. The smallest of the wobbegongs, the Ward’s and the Japanese grow to a length of slightly less than 3 feet. They are extremely difficult to come by in the aquarium trade unless you request them specifically. The other wobbegongs all grow to a size between six to ten feet in length. Typically you will find the Spotted and the Ornate in stores. Both of these species grow extremely large. Their sizes can vary greatly depending on their surroundings and geography. They are typically only found in the Australian region but have been known to be caught as far north as Japan. All wobbegongs have some type of dermal appendages or barbells which these use to lure in and also seek food. All wobbegongs have very different and unique patterns to their bodies. It allows them to blend in like a chameleon with their surroundings. All wobbegongs eat octopi, squid, crabs, sharks, reef fish, and even rays. All wobbegongs should be kept at a tank temperature of very close to 74 degrees F and never change it. It is important with wobbegongs that you do not keep it with any tankmates unless you are extremely skilled with handling the animal. They will eat all eels, sharks, rays, triggers, tangs, angels, crabs, starfish, lobsters, snails, cleaner fish, shrimp, you name it… its lunch. Believe me I’ve seen mine swallow down 16 to 18 inch remora in one giant gulp. Average cost for small Wobbegongs setup and upkeep $4,000 for large Wobbegongs $7,000 to $15,000
Zebra Shark
This shark is the only member of its family. Its tail, much like the thresher shark, is almost as long as it’s body. These sharks are on rare occasion available to the aquarium trade, as well as their egg cases. They have been known to reproduce very well in captivity and also live very lengthy lives. Zebra sharks should only be purchased by expert aquarists who have a great deal of time to dedicate to these beautiful sharks. Not only are Zebra sharks expensive themselves… you would need a tank of around 8,000 gallons to keep it in. Zebras are born at a length of about 9 to 10 inches and grow to a length around 7 to 8 feet. There have been reported cases of this shark exceeding 11 feet but it is rarely seen that large. Zebra sharks like nurse sharks and bamboo sharks can rest about on the bottoms of the ocean for long periods of time. The Zebra sharks primary diet is snails, clams, crabs, mussels, and occasionally small fish. Zebra sharks are warm water sharks and should be kept at around 76 to 78 degrees F. Average cost for Zebra shark setup and upkeep $25,000 to $50,000. (Cost of this shark can be as much as $10,000 but is usually around $2,500)
 

risc

Member
Filtration for Sharks
You can never have enough filtration for sharks. If you plan on keeping sharks in your aquarium plan on buying more filtration then you can afford. If you are a millionaire even better… you can spend all that much more. Sharks should never be undercut when it comes to filtration. It is essential for their long term survival and over-all sanity. A shark can die within minutes of being exposed to high levels of ammonia. So a shark should never be used to cycle a tank unless your tank is in excess of 50,000 gallons. Horn sharks have long been used to cycle tanks because they are one of the more hardy species. This is a horrible idea. Not only are you risking the life of your shark who will suffer a very awful death of being burned by ammonia… but you are prolonging your cycling of the tank.
It is almost essential for every shark aquarium to have a wet/dry or trickle filter. It is also a good practice to have a fluidized bed filter to accompany it. If using a wet/fry filter it is essential that you replace the pre-filter foam at least every month. If you wait longer you risk flooding your tank with nitrates. Nitrates being the less harmful of ammonia and nitrite can still cause death in large concentrations. The sooner you change the filter media the less likely it will be that you will have to do an 80% water change in the future. Which believe me … stresses sharks out big time. It’s not the water change that affects them it’s the conditions of the change. Even if you have acclimated RO water with the same temperature and salinity factors… sharks can sense the differences in the new water because it’s *new* water. They will make every effort to hide from the water because they think it’s an invader in their home. Also it is unwise to dump water and salt right into your aquarium with sharks and other bony fish as well because you could burn their gills with the raw material salt before it has had time to dissolve.
Another major filter device required for sharks is a foam fractionator aka protein skimmer. Skimmers are essential for extracting the waste composites that the sharks leave. Even if you have good tank cleaners you still will revere your investment in a good quality skimming device.
Other filters you can buy that will work well are carbon based filters. These should only be used to accompany the other more efficient filters. Like an Emperor 400 or Magnum 350 to name a few. These filters alone will not be adequate to filter and shark tank however. Even if you buy 12 of them to filter a 150 gallon tank it will not handle all the variables you need to handle. Live sand is an excellent source of filtration but when it comes to large shark aquariums it is rather expensive and can be solved by a much cheaper mechanical device method. Live sand in very deep beds can also house parasites and other potentially dangerous invaders to sharks.
No matter what type of filtration system you are buying for a shark tank it is always best to take the reading on the box and cut it in half. For example: You have a 400 gallon tank and you are purchasing a skimmer for a 400 gallon tank. That skimmer in a shark environment is only good for 200 gallons worth. Look at buying a bigger skimmer or an additional one. The 400 gallon one won’t cut it. You will need to buy enough pumping equipment and filtration equipment to turn the tank completely 5 times every hour. So your 400 gallon tank would need two 1,000 gallon per hour pumps just to cycle water. Maximum water movement and oxygenation is essential. Don’t skimp and buy cheap power heads. You need lots of movement all the time.
Things in the nature of UV sterilizers and calcium reactors really depend on your aquarium installation. If you feel the need for such devices they will not inhibit the life of the shark in anyway so go right ahead.
So all and all there isn’t much difference for shark filtration other than you need a heck of a lot more of it. As well, you need almost three times the water movement of normal bony fish aquariums. Shark aquariums should be well planned out and not just jumped into. If you do jump into owning a shark you will most likely find yourself spending far more money then you imagined or eventually getting rid of the shark because you cannot properly care for the animal.
 

risc

Member
Hey whats up brother..... yeah I've been out of the loop for awhile.. busy and other computer problems and what not. I have a new diver now too... so I am real excited. I am down to 11 sharks... but I am looking at a place in Australia to build a home and maybe research Whale sharks. That is a huge passion of mine... I think they are the most amazing of sharks... I have gone diving with them a few times... I'd like to raise one... but I know thats basically impossible. I'm trying to work out a deal with H.R. Demry, they are a realtor for beach front property in Aussie...and since I'm not engaged anymore... I don't reallly give a ---- about moving :p
So... the cards are in the air and I am thinking of moving and taking my fish with me... hehe :)
Anyone that wants to see my SharkCam is always open on Yahoo messenger at risc_x .... just message me and I will allow you too see my sharks now on Webcam.
Later,
Jim
 

reeferdude

Member
If you are going to dive with "meat-eating" sharks just remember to stay calm and keeps your hands in!!!!! I have seen whole fingers be taken off by white tip reef sharks!!!!
 
M

mr hanky

Guest
risc,
good info! you seem like a shark guy(understatement!?) do you know if freycinets epaulette or chain shark(scyliorhinus retifer) are available in the trade? if so do you have any suggestions as where to look? or should i just give up on those species?! i look forward to reading/hearing more from you!! :) :D :cool: :eek:
mr hanky/robby k
 

rgmason

Member
Originally Posted by risc
Filtration for Sharks
You can never have enough filtration for sharks. If you plan on keeping sharks in your aquarium plan on buying more filtration then you can afford. If you are a millionaire even better… you can spend all that much more. Sharks should never be undercut when it comes to filtration. It is essential for their long term survival and over-all sanity. A shark can die within minutes of being exposed to high levels of ammonia. So a shark should never be used to cycle a tank unless your tank is in excess of 50,000 gallons. Horn sharks have long been used to cycle tanks because they are one of the more hardy species. This is a horrible idea. Not only are you risking the life of your shark who will suffer a very awful death of being burned by ammonia… but you are prolonging your cycling of the tank.
It is almost essential for every shark aquarium to have a wet/dry or trickle filter. It is also a good practice to have a fluidized bed filter to accompany it. If using a wet/fry filter it is essential that you replace the pre-filter foam at least every month. If you wait longer you risk flooding your tank with nitrates. Nitrates being the less harmful of ammonia and nitrite can still cause death in large concentrations. The sooner you change the filter media the less likely it will be that you will have to do an 80% water change in the future. Which believe me … stresses sharks out big time. It’s not the water change that affects them it’s the conditions of the change. Even if you have acclimated RO water with the same temperature and salinity factors… sharks can sense the differences in the new water because it’s *new* water. They will make every effort to hide from the water because they think it’s an invader in their home. Also it is unwise to dump water and salt right into your aquarium with sharks and other bony fish as well because you could burn their gills with the raw material salt before it has had time to dissolve.
Another major filter device required for sharks is a foam fractionator aka protein skimmer. Skimmers are essential for extracting the waste composites that the sharks leave. Even if you have good tank cleaners you still will revere your investment in a good quality skimming device.
Other filters you can buy that will work well are carbon based filters. These should only be used to accompany the other more efficient filters. Like an Emperor 400 or Magnum 350 to name a few. These filters alone will not be adequate to filter and shark tank however. Even if you buy 12 of them to filter a 150 gallon tank it will not handle all the variables you need to handle. Live sand is an excellent source of filtration but when it comes to large shark aquariums it is rather expensive and can be solved by a much cheaper mechanical device method. Live sand in very deep beds can also house parasites and other potentially dangerous invaders to sharks.
No matter what type of filtration system you are buying for a shark tank it is always best to take the reading on the box and cut it in half. For example: You have a 400 gallon tank and you are purchasing a skimmer for a 400 gallon tank. That skimmer in a shark environment is only good for 200 gallons worth. Look at buying a bigger skimmer or an additional one. The 400 gallon one won’t cut it. You will need to buy enough pumping equipment and filtration equipment to turn the tank completely 5 times every hour. So your 400 gallon tank would need two 1,000 gallon per hour pumps just to cycle water. Maximum water movement and oxygenation is essential. Don’t skimp and buy cheap power heads. You need lots of movement all the time.
Things in the nature of UV sterilizers and calcium reactors really depend on your aquarium installation. If you feel the need for such devices they will not inhibit the life of the shark in anyway so go right ahead.
So all and all there isn’t much difference for shark filtration other than you need a heck of a lot more of it. As well, you need almost three times the water movement of normal bony fish aquariums. Shark aquariums should be well planned out and not just jumped into. If you do jump into owning a shark you will most likely find yourself spending far more money then you imagined or eventually getting rid of the shark because you cannot properly care for the animal.
i would have to say excellent information couldnt agree more.answered some of my ?'s saveing from more threads!!!!
 

robn

Member
RISC,
Nice posts, very informative.....
I would agree that most of the catsharks and swellsharks are cool-water species, but I believe that some of the sharks in the genus Atelomycterus (Scyliorhinidae family) are tropical.... the coral and marbled catsharks for example.
I am getting my 240gal set up for a FOWLR tank.....was thinking about the Coral or Marbled with a Snowflake and spotted snake eel.....what would be some other suitable tankmates? I'm staying away from Angels, Puffers, and Triggers.....would a Tang (Orange Shoulder or Clown) or maybe a Blue Jaw Trigger work?
Thanks!!!
 

robn

Member
1<3Fish,
The smallest shark...depends on who you read.....the Dwarf Lanternfish (Etmopterus perryi) is about 7 1/2"-8" long (Females) and 6"-7" (males)....the Spined pygmy shark (Squaliolus laticaudus) is about 8" (Females) and 7" (males).....I've never seen either for sale though.....the smallest sharks I've seen for purchase are the Coral and Marbled cat sharks.....about 22"-24" max length.
 

robn

Member
Yeah, pretty much....like I said, the 2 that I mentioned being smaller are not offered for sale, or at least I've never seen them......I had to look pretty hard to find online sites that would even offer the catsharks.......
 

robn

Member
Mitzel,
You mean my search for finding sharks to buy online? Yes, I did....found a few places.......
I had forgotten about the forum rules on that one :thinking:
 

jr2857

Active Member
know this thread is a little old but i believe the smallest requim shark is the atlantic sharpnose shark maxing at 4ft. please tell me if i'm wrong or right though i'm pretty sure i'm right
 

sharkboy97

Member
if not then it might be a bonnethead but i think ur right, why, and what happened to that big tank your parents were gonna let u build
 

jr2857

Active Member
well my dad has agreed to build one in the summer with me when i have no school we plan on using a swimming pool
 

jr2857

Active Member
Originally Posted by Sharkboy97
if not then it might be a bonnethead but i think ur right, why, and what happened to that big tank your parents were gonna let u build
and bonnets are hammerhead shark family
 
Top