Are Crocea Clams hard to keep? (Tridacna Crocea)
- Thread starter dutchswan
- Start date
btldreef
Moderator
They need stable water parameters and should only be put into a mature tank (9+ months old). You need good calcium/alk levels as well. Ca should really never go below 400ppm (420ppm if you really want to be safe), alkalinity 8-10dKH. I always suggest getting the Salifert or Elos test kits for alkalinity and calcium if you're going to keep critters that require these (clams, SPS, etc) API kits are not as accurate.
They are a rock boring clam and usually do not thrive in sand.
They need intense lighting (MH or good T5). If placed correctly under your lighting, you should be fine.
If you do intend on feeding them, add the food to the water column and allow them to filter it (turning off all filtration helps), do not attempt to force feed them, this will usually kill them. Smaller clams are the ones that really require feeding, over 2-3" do not need to be fed, they will just filter what's in the water column and since you have fish in your tank, they won't starve.
Under 2" usually = death. They have a much higher survival rate over 3"
Be very specific with finding out what type of lighting they have been kept under, especially a smaller specimen as you may need to adapt it to your lighting. I try to tell people that if you have MH's, don't buy a clam that's been kept under T5's for a long period of time, it just makes the process easier for you, but it's not impossible either way.
I think you have a Coral Beauty (correct me if I'm wrong, I can't keep track of everyone), if so, just keep an eye out that they don't nip at the mantle.
As far as difficulty level, if they're placed in a stable tank with good lighting that already has fish, they're fairly easy to keep. It's when they're placed in a new tank, or a tank with inadequate lighting, or a tank with inhabitants that aren't suited for a clam that there are issues.
They are a rock boring clam and usually do not thrive in sand.
They need intense lighting (MH or good T5). If placed correctly under your lighting, you should be fine.
If you do intend on feeding them, add the food to the water column and allow them to filter it (turning off all filtration helps), do not attempt to force feed them, this will usually kill them. Smaller clams are the ones that really require feeding, over 2-3" do not need to be fed, they will just filter what's in the water column and since you have fish in your tank, they won't starve.
Under 2" usually = death. They have a much higher survival rate over 3"
Be very specific with finding out what type of lighting they have been kept under, especially a smaller specimen as you may need to adapt it to your lighting. I try to tell people that if you have MH's, don't buy a clam that's been kept under T5's for a long period of time, it just makes the process easier for you, but it's not impossible either way.
I think you have a Coral Beauty (correct me if I'm wrong, I can't keep track of everyone), if so, just keep an eye out that they don't nip at the mantle.
As far as difficulty level, if they're placed in a stable tank with good lighting that already has fish, they're fairly easy to keep. It's when they're placed in a new tank, or a tank with inadequate lighting, or a tank with inhabitants that aren't suited for a clam that there are issues.
dutchswan
Member
You should be ok with the MH lighting, they need intence lighting. I would not get one smaller than 3 inches. The small ones tend to die. Some people feed them Phyto. How long has your system been up and running for?
I began my cycle on June 10, 2010...so I am approaching the 8 month mark. I have a ton of live rock, and have had stable water conditions for over 6 months now.
dutchswan
Member
They need stable water parameters and should only be put into a mature tank (9+ months old). You need good calcium/alk levels as well. Ca should really never go below 400ppm (420ppm if you really want to be safe), alkalinity 8-10dKH. I always suggest getting the Salifert or Elos test kits for alkalinity and calcium if you're going to keep critters that require these (clams, SPS, etc) API kits are not as accurate.
They are a rock boring clam and usually do not thrive in sand.
They need intense lighting (MH or good T5). If placed correctly under your lighting, you should be fine.
If you do intend on feeding them, add the food to the water column and allow them to filter it (turning off all filtration helps), do not attempt to force feed them, this will usually kill them. Smaller clams are the ones that really require feeding, over 2-3" do not need to be fed, they will just filter what's in the water column and since you have fish in your tank, they won't starve.
Under 2" usually = death. They have a much higher survival rate over 3"
Be very specific with finding out what type of lighting they have been kept under, especially a smaller specimen as you may need to adapt it to your lighting. I try to tell people that if you have MH's, don't buy a clam that's been kept under T5's for a long period of time, it just makes the process easier for you, but it's not impossible either way.
I think you have a Coral Beauty (correct me if I'm wrong, I can't keep track of everyone), if so, just keep an eye out that they don't nip at the mantle.
As far as difficulty level, if they're placed in a stable tank with good lighting that already has fish, they're fairly easy to keep. It's when they're placed in a new tank, or a tank with inadequate lighting, or a tank with inhabitants that aren't suited for a clam that there are issues.
I have a 150W MH in my 30" tall column. My LR reaches up about 24-26", so there is only 4-6" from the top of the LR to the surface of the water. MH is clipped on about 6-8" above the water line. My CB seems to be quite peaceful, as he has never nipped at the anthelis, goniopora, or my zoos. The BT anamone seems to like the top layer of rock and has wedged itself in. It does move, but only to different spots on the top layer of LR. Would the BTA and the clam play well together in the proverbial sandbox? Based on my tank description, would a lower layer of rock be acceptable for it? I am already turning everything off and adding 2 tsp. Of microplankton every other day for about 5 min.
carlos413
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLDreef http:///forum/thread/383544/are-crocea-clams-hard-to-keep-tridacna-crocea#post_3355348
I would wait a month for the anemone to find a permanent spot. It should by then, which will make adding a clam easier. If your anemone finds a happy place (which it should), it should play nice with the clam. I would keep a Crocea mid-way and up in your tank.
+1
Originally Posted by BTLDreef http:///forum/thread/383544/are-crocea-clams-hard-to-keep-tridacna-crocea#post_3355348
I would wait a month for the anemone to find a permanent spot. It should by then, which will make adding a clam easier. If your anemone finds a happy place (which it should), it should play nice with the clam. I would keep a Crocea mid-way and up in your tank.
+1
mrdc
Active Member
Thanks for reminding of that. Now get this ... the tank it is in is one of 12 that are all hooked to the same system. They had some sort of anemone die and wiped out practically everything but not the derasa. A few weeks ago, they had a heater malfuntion and the water got to 90 degrees (I felt it and it sure felt hot). Derasa still kicking.
gill again68
Active Member
I would say watch that CB. My coral beauty was all nice and never bothered anybody. From time to time now since I added my derasa the dang thing will go by and take a nip. It doesnt do it to often and the clam seems to be, well happy as a clam
. Just watch it. I wouldn't trust them. Mine has almost gotten a ride to the LFS for picking on my clowns and such.