Hmmmm.....ahhhhh........oohhhhhh.....I see.
OK, your design would work, bit I think it is getting a bit complicated. I kind of like the KISS principle (Keep It Simple and Stupid). If you did want to go that way though, it would work.
A few things though. The way the float switches are designed, the wiring goes into a tube at the top and the remainder of the tube is totally sealed. The opening at the top of the tube is then sealed. In my design, the top of the tube never comes in contact with the water at all so there is no chance of the wires even getting wet (unless there is a stuck float) so that reduces the chances of a short to near zero. The floats are designed to work in acidic/caustic conditions so I am not worried about corrosion. With your design, the low float would be completely submerged a good deal of the time. Having that wire under water that much would worry me. So, to sum up, my design has all electrical wiring out of the water. In fact, the solenoid assembly is over a foot from the sump so if salt creep gets to it......I got major neglect problems!!
Another concern with your design is that, depending on the size of your sump return chamber, you could be adding several gallons at a time. With a tank like my 125, that won't do much to the salinity level, but may cause minor swings in a smaller system.
Yes, I found that it does cycle on and off more than 5 times per day. Probably once per hour is what I am thinking now. It is on for 10-20 seconds. May get to be more often in the summer with evaporation increasing and the fans on the tank. That is a lot of cycling, but the valves are designed to cycle dozens of times per hour and last for years. I am not worried about wear.....it least for the next few years. Still, I will be inspecting on a regular basis.
So, what are your ideas?
This is what I like about this forumn. People bouncing ideas off each other!!
