Auto Topoff Equipment

[tree]

I have been using the drip method for auto topoff for about 5 months now. I am tired of filling up the gallon container every night. It is also not conducive to going on vacation.
The goal - Put a tank of RO/DI water in the garage and run a water line to the sump. This will require that I use powerhead & some sort of float switch.
The Problem - I am confused about the different selections out there. I have looked at lifereef, autotopoff, Kent. Does anyone have any suggestions? :help:

 

[tree]

I forgot to say I don't have room to put a larger container for drip topoffs. The container of RO/Di in the garage will be at approximately the same height as the sump so gravity won't work for me there either.

 

[vyperone]

This really depends on whether or not you want an out of box solution or want to make something yourself.
If you run a line from your RO unit to the sump its pretty easy.
I used an automatic sprinkler valve, 12 volt transformer and a float switch. I do not have a large reservoir of water, I just run the line directly from the RO unit to my sump. If interested I could diagram it for you.

 

[marvida]

My auto top off system consists of a float switch, bucket, a Maxi-Jet 1200, 2 $1 extension cords, and some shrink wrap.

 

[tony detroit]

Run the kent marine float valve kit in your sump direct from your RO filter, forget the float switch, just one more electrical device to fail.

 

[tree]

VyperOne & tony detroit - Based on my current free time - out of the box is best. But if it does not take a lot of time, I can make one.
Unfortunately the RO/DI unit is located nowhere near my tank and running a line from it is not a possibility. I will still have to fill a RO/DI water storage tank in the garage to have the water close to the tank & have electrical available.
MarVida & -VyperOne what float switch did you use & have you had any problems/regrets about that choice?

 

[tony detroit]

You can hook up the float valve kit in a quarter of the time of a float switch, plus I have yet to hear of one fail, I've heard of numerous float switch failures.

 

[tree]

tony, I understand there is a failure rate issue with switches but I just can't seem to figure out how to get a float valve to trigger a pump/powerhead to turn on. I need to pump the water in from a potentially equal or lower height water source. Gravity drip will not work in this case. If you have a method/diagram of how to make a float valve work to turn on a pump please post it. I would love to go with the method that has less of a failure rate.

 

[tony detroit]

The float valve runs on water pressure. The kit comes with a shutoff solenoid. When the unit gets backpressure (i.e. float valve is floating), it closes the solenoid.
If you have a RO filter this is the way to fly, you hook it up direct to your RO.

 

[beamer]

My ro/di unit is a good ways from my tank. My tank guy installed the unit under the sink. I use it for drinking and cooking purposes and then he ran a line from under the sink, behind the frig up through the wall to the attic, accross the attic down into the AC closet and out the return vent to my sump with a float valve. I don't have to fool with carrying any water at all for top off. Since the line comes down through the AC closet I have the line split off so that after I do a WC I just roll my trash can over to the closet and drop the line into it and fill it up for the next time. Pretty easy! I'm looking into getting a sensor type device to replace the float valve. My hubby is the one that's been looking at that. I think I heard him say that it is made by Tunze. I believe it has two sensors on it to keep the water level where it should be ??$161.00??and is less likely to fail.
My float valve has messed up once but I caught it before it over flowed. I used the float valve that came with my ro/di system. I've been told that the Kent float valve (plastic) would be the bettter choice.
Good luck with your decision!
Here's a pic of my float valve on the right.
Cindy

 

[tony detroit]

email me and I'll send you a link
packtony@hotmail.com

 

[marvida]

I prefer the electrical switches, but my systems are not so complex that maintaining them is a consideration. The only problem that i've had was once a turbo took a ride on the switch & turned the pump on. This can be easily prevented.
Here's the switch I use. They are less than $10 delivered.

 

[vyperone]

My RO unit is in my garage. I ran the line into the attic to the other side of the house, dropped out of the eaves through the wall to the back of my sump. You only need to drill about a 1/4 inch hole through the wall. Put some caulking around it and you are set. Trust me this is the way to go if you can do it. you can buy the float switch from Graingers, ----, etc...

 

[beamer]

VyperOne,
I would be interested in your sprinkler valve and transformer. I'm not real secure with what I am using. My ro/di set up is like yours going directly to the sump. I'm afraid of my float valve getting stuck and then I'll really have a mess. I'm fixing to have to break down and move my tank further down the wall and that would be a good time to change things up since I'll have to re-route my tubing to the sump a bit.
Thanks,
Cindy

 

[yaksplat]

If your afraid that a float valve will stick then use two of them. If either one closes the circuit then the pump will turn off. Double failure mode is much less likely. I use the floatswitch that is pictured above on my tank. It's there just in case the power goes out and the cpr loses its siphon. It worked perfectly when the power went out while i was on vacation.
if you need any electrical diagrams let me know.
Jim

 

[beamer]

Originally I had wanted to put in two float valves but my tank guy looked at me like I was crazy saying that he'd never had anyone complain of it before and that I was just worrying to much about things and making them more complicated than they needed to be. It's true I was worrying too much about things when I bought this existing tank and had it moved 130 miles, however I wish I had insited on his putting in the two like someone else had suggested I do. Oh well! LIve and learn.
We were thinking about getting a device that goes in the sump with 2 sensors. I can't remember who makes it. I thought it was Tunz but I couldn't find it yesterday. It was a little pricey but for peace of mind I think it would be well worth it since we are out of town so much.
If you have the diagrams handy and its not any trouble, I would like to see them.
Thanks,
Cindy

 

[robchuck]

Originally posted by beamer
We were thinking about getting a device that goes in the sump with 2 sensors. I can't remember who makes it. I thought it was Tunz but I couldn't find it yesterday. It was a little pricey but for peace of mind I think it would be well worth it since we are out of town so much.
If you have the diagrams handy and its not any trouble, I would like to see them.
Thanks,
Cindy
Cindy,
You were right thinking it was Tunze. The unit you're thinking of is the Universal Osmolator 3155. It's a bit pricy, but works very well and is extremely accurate. I used to use a float switch, but picked up one of these used for a decent price when a local reefer was tearing his tank down. I don't have any pics of one, partly because the Osmolator is made up of so many pieces. It uses an optical sensor to monitor the water level in your sump and the controller triggers a small pump in the topoff resevoir to start pumping. The optical sensor is so accurate that the pump is only on for a few seconds at a time when it refills my 20 gallon sump. The controller automatically shuts the pump off if it's been running for more than ten minutes, and if in that ten minutes the water level has raised too high, there is a float switch that raises, shutting off the pump and the controller makes an obnoxious noise.

 

[yaksplat]

see, now that's what i want to do in my tank. With a bunch of sensors, relays, and a computer you can program it to do anything.

 

[beamer]

ThanksRobChuck!
I'll go back and look that up on line. I don't use a top off reservoir. My ro'di is plumbed directly into the sump with the float valve. Since I don't use a top off reservoir will I still be able to use the Tunze unit?
Cindy

 

[tree]

Thought I would give an update. I purchased the Tunze Osmolater 3155. It has been almost a year. It works great. Well at least it did. Recently I have had a problem with it

It will register when the water is low, but not turn the pump on. I wrote the company after following all their troubleshooting directions. They emailed me back saying to send it in for service - still under warranty.

It will only cost me the shipping to have it repaired.
With my situation where I have to pump the water up, this seemed to be the only solution and it has worked well. I would buy another. In fact I probably will so that I have one, while the original is out for service.