Ben's New Nano!

very good sign, check your parameters your cycle should be close to finished. Pretty soon you will wanna throw in a clean up crew and do a water change
 

bmorosco

Member
Originally Posted by Freeborder_01
http:///forum/post/2857018
very good sign, check your parameters your cycle should be close to finished. Pretty soon you will wanna throw in a clean up crew and do a water change
How id that possible? The rock has been in the tank since 11/26? thats like 5 days?
 

bmorosco

Member
Ok tested the water and here are the results...
Amonia= 0.50 ppm
Nitrate= 20 ppm
Nitrite= 1.0 ppm
PH= 8.3
Temp= 80.0
Salinity= 1.024
 

nano-newb1983

Active Member
parameters looking good. Nitrates goin up just like they supposed too... YAAY!!! almost time for the CUC
My tanks cycled in about 5-7 days too, must be that nano-cubes just kick @$$. Think it all has to do how cured the LF is
 

bmorosco

Member
ok it said to do a water change once a week should i do that or wait until everything hits zero or wont it if i dont change the water?
 

rotarymagic

Active Member
Originally Posted by Bmorosco
http:///forum/post/2858015
ok it said to do a water change once a week should i do that or wait until everything hits zero or wont it if i dont change the water?
umm... I don't do a water change for like a month or so after starting a tank... I do things alittle differently though... I never buy uncured rock so I don't run into alot of these issues with ammonia lol..
I would just let the tank run its course and do no water change till the tank zeros out... now if it sits at like 10ppm nitrates for a week.. then do a water change.
 

nwdyr

Active Member
Hey your on your way
I would go ahead and do the water change
I used cured LR , from my local fish store ( LFS) , and LS in my JBJ bio and had a very fast small cycle also
I think the time depends on how good the lR is. You will be ready for that CC soon! Keep us posted
 

bmorosco

Member
Originally Posted by Rotarymagic
http:///forum/post/2858017
you don't have bioballs or anything that nonsense in this tank do you?
Yes I do have bioballs in this tank. I am going with the stock setup because that is what the general concensus is. I was told that the people making these Aquariums hopefully know what they are doing. I also hope this same thing. If you think about it why would you put a product out there you have to change as soon as you get it out of the box?? So hopefully with the help of all you fine people here I can get a good tank going!
 

bmorosco

Member

Originally Posted by nwdyr
http:///forum/post/2858032
Hey your on your way
I would go ahead and do the water change
I used cured LR , from my local fish store ( LFS) , and LS in my JBJ bio and had a very fast small cycle also
I think the time depends on how good the lR is. You will be ready for that CC soon! Keep us posted
I have read on here that you can extend your cycle by doing a water change? I definately do not want that.
Also my rock came from the Dr...... and it said it was pre-cured witch means well.....nothing to me. I have read there directions on the live rock and they are saying to do 50% water change weekly???
HERE ARE THE DIRECTIONS....

Method B
: Curing process of live rock for the new aquarium that DOES NOT contain fish, corals, or any other marine animals.
Live rock may be used to cycle a new marine aquarium. Follow the manufacturer's directions on the installation of all filtration devices and accessories. Fill aquarium with freshly mixed saltwater with a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025. Activate all filtration equipment, check for leaks, and set heater and/or chiller to the desired temperature of 72-78°F.
Note: Mechanical filtration will need frequent cleaning during this cycling process.
Rinse each piece of live rock in a small bucket of saltwater to remove any loose organic matter, debris, or sand.
Place live rock into the aquarium to create a stable foundation for corals or decorations.
Keep the lighting system off during the cycling period in order to reduce the likelihood of undesirable algae growth.
Gently scrub the rocks periodically with a new nylon bristle brush or toothbrush to remove loose white film or dead material.
Perform 50% water changes weekly while siphoning out any organic matter and loose debris that accumulates at the bottom of the aquarium.
Measure and monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels in the aquarium weekly.
When both ammonia and nitrite levels are zero, perform a 50% water change on the aquarium.
After 24 hours, check the pH of the water and adjust as needed to achieve the desired level of 8.1-8.4.
Those were the directions on the box!!!
 

bmorosco

Member
Ok tested the water again and here are the results...
Amonia= 0.50 ppm
Nitrate= 20 ppm
Nitrite= .25 ppm
PH= 8.5
Temp= 80.0
Salinity= 1.024
the only change from the last water test is the nitrite went from 1.0 to .25 and I have a ton of brown watever in the tank it is ugly!!!
 

bmorosco

Member
Ok evryone My tank is almost done I think here are the
Amonia= 0 ppm
Nitrate= 10 ppm
Nitrite= 0 ppm
PH= 8.5
Temp= 80.1
Salinity= 1.024
...
 

bigarn

Active Member
You're good to go .... the nitrate reading is fine. 0 nitrates is preferred but rarely obtainable.
 
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