Bio-wheel=Nitrates?

L

lsu

Guest
I've had a constant battle with nitrates, even with water changes and with the use of an aquaripure denitrator. I thought I read somewhere that bio-wheels increase nitrates. I took mine out today to see if it will affect my nitrate levels. My test is a little biased though because all of my fish are in my QT due to a recent ick issue that I encountered. I was wondering if ya'll have heard the same thing and if if bio-wheels are really a necessity while using a skimmer.
 

weberian

Member
Do you have live rock? If so, how many pounds? In what size tank? The current trend is to use live rock and live sand to harbor the nitrifying bacteria instead of a bio-wheel. Some people use a bio-wheel instead of live rock because live rock is so expensive.
Live rock proponents will tell you that live rock has places deep inside that harbor oxygen-starved bacteria which will actually break down nitrate into nitrogen gas. So LR can do even more than the bio-wheel if you believe that. I have yet to read the hard data, although there is probably some out there. I use LR myself.
 
L

lsu

Guest
It's a fifty-five corner thats been up for about five years. 60 lbs Ls, 75lbs Lr, it was overstocked for about two months while I had to hold onto my buddies fish while he moved, but after I gave him his fish back the nitrate levels still ran high. I've had the denitrator for almost two months but I heard they take a while to cycle so I'm gonna give that more time. I could have sworn that I read or someone told me that biological filters such as bio-wheels will increase nitrate levels.
 

weberian

Member
They cannot create nitrate. I think people (those who know what they're talking about anyway) who are against bio-wheels, are just trying to say that contrasted to LR, you would end up with more nitrate. Do you know what I mean?
 

aztec reef

Active Member
I would do a Large water change with ro/di. and when you do that clean out the filters and powerheads as well as the skimmer if dirty. cut back on feeding a little. what else do you run in filter? carbon/sponge?
The only reason why biowheels or hang on back filters create "Nitrates" is the lack of maintenance in other words running filters dirty. so the filters don't create Nitrates, some people do.
 

hatessushi

Active Member
Originally Posted by LSU
I've had a constant battle with nitrates, even with water changes and with the use of an aquaripure denitrator. I thought I read somewhere that bio-wheels increase nitrates. I took mine out today to see if it will affect my nitrate levels. My test is a little biased though because all of my fish are in my QT due to a recent ick issue that I encountered. I was wondering if ya'll have heard the same thing and if if bio-wheels are really a necessity while using a skimmer.
If the aquaripure denitrator was working properly then you would not have a nitrate problem. You might look into to it to see if it is working properly.
 

ophiura

Active Member
How high are your levels?
What test kit do you have?
Have you had it checked elsewhere?
What fish do you have?
How much, what and how often do you feed?
How much, how often do you change water?
Do you use RO water?
Skimmers and biowheel filters are not really related in what they do.
 
L

lsu

Guest
Originally Posted by ophiura
How high are your levels?
What test kit do you have?
Have you had it checked elsewhere?
What fish do you have?
How much, what and how often do you feed?
How much, how often do you change water?
Do you use RO water?
Skimmers and biowheel filters are not really related in what they do.
My levels are nitrites 0, ph 8.0-8.2, nitrate is 60, ammonia 0. My test kit is the Liquid master test kit by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. My tank is fishless at the moment due too ick. I had 2 maroon clowns 2inch and 1 1/2 inch, 2 purple firefish, 1 midas blenny, 1 lawnmower blenny, and 1 bi-color angel(the cause of the ick, had a previous thread about him). I fed them once at night 1 cube frozen mysid thawed, 1/2 cube frozen prime reef thawed, and fomula I and II pellets, I normally due a 5 gallon change a week but sometimes every other week. My LFS got the same readings as I did. I use RO for topoffs. I also have 2 fireshrimp, 2 sexy shrimp, 2 cleaner shrimp, 1 yellow brittle and assorted hermits and snails. I think the dentrator is still cycling as the instructions said it would take 4-10 weeks to see a difference. I didn't change the filters on the bio-wheel as much as I should have which may have been the problem. Is it alright to remove the bio altogether or just the carbon?
 

ophiura

Active Member
YOu definitely fed A LOT...so this is a major issue.
How old is your test kit? I would have it double checked against a newed, and I hate to say it but - more accurate - test kit. The liquid master test kit is not really a great one, sorry to say. The filters in the biowheel should be rinsed at least once a week...but the biowheels themselves do not need anything more than a rinse in some old tank water when you do a water change.
What is your alkalinity and calcium? Specific gravity? What kind of skimmer do you have? You may not need the biowheels if you have a lot of live rock...
 
L

lsu

Guest
My buddy borrowed my refractometer and calcium test so I do not know my SG at the moment and I do not have an alk test kit. I have a coralife super skimmer 65g. 75 Lbs of Lr and plan on getting about twenty more pounds on Saturday when I go to the LFS to get my water for a change. What test kits would you recommend? I use the frozen prime reef to spot feed the star and shrimp every few days sorry I didn't mean every night.
 

aztec reef

Active Member
You don't need the biowheel
Also for the Test kits i recomend SALIFER hands down for accurary, reliability and simpleness.
Is a good idea to keep the Star well fed but if i was you i wouldn't worry about feeding the shrimps.
and sorry to tell you but in that size of tank with a Starfish, The sandbed is not working as effecient as it should be due to the Star eating some of the beneficial critters that live in the sandbed.
 

renogaw

Active Member
i have a bio-wheel on my QT and even when i had the 20 as my main tank before the 75, i always had nitrates issue. I tested last night just to see, and yup, nitrates. Brand new salifert test kit showed about 40ppm (i believe, cant remember now). according to penguin, i'm never supposed to clean, dry, or replace the biowheel, and there's a filter before it that generally gets any excess food (if any). It probably has to do with the biowheel almost constantly out of water as it spins.
 

symon

Member
Like Crushed Coral , the bio wheel can be a nitrate trap.
Remove the bio wheel itself, and filter unless you need to run carbon or some other media, now you have a waterfall on your tank that helps to aireate your tank!
 

renogaw

Active Member
Originally Posted by Symon
Like Crushed Coral , the bio wheel can be a nitrate trap.
Remove the bio wheel itself, and filter unless you need to run carbon or some other media, now you have a waterfall on your tank that helps to aireate your tank!
but i would also have no ammonia breakdown--this is the qt.
 

weberian

Member
The bio-wheel itself does not trap detritus. It houses nitrifying bacteria that convert nitrite to nitrate, the same as live rock. Really you guys have to read over the nitrogen cycle and trust that Marineland's number one filter is not "bogus".
The other part of the filter DOES trap detritus, and therefore should be cleaned frequently.
I agree with that much LR, that a bio-wheel here is not necessary.
 
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