blue favia coral
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treble
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Favia Corals
Albert J. Thiel
Favia Corals are actually not that uncommon in the hobby if you seek them out from stores that specialize in LPS ones and concentrate their efforts on reef tanks.
Several varieties are around and can either be found or ordered from pet stores as they are imported. The ones that I have run across include:
Favia amirocum
Favia maxima
Favia speciosa
Favia flavescens
Favia coeruleus
Favia maeandrinea,
and there are others still
According to literature though there are many more varieties that have not been classified yet (Wilkens, P. 1990). This should come as no surprise as thousands of corals have not been classified (just think of the number of Actinodiscus mushrooms that no one ever categorized).
Description
Favia species exhibit fleshy polyps that have their own cups and can expand and contract rather quickly. This is especially the case if they are harassed by fish, shrimp, bristle worms, urchins and anything else that may crawl around and touch them. Mind you they are powerful stingers themselves.
The graphic shows a portion of F. amicorum.
These are generally solitary corals found in areas where not many other life forms grow. This is interesting to notice. Indeed they are found in real turbid and low quality water which makes them ideal for aquariums of course. In fact, the water in your aquarium may often be of better quality than the water these corals are found.
Roundish in shape and looking like half a ball (most of them), they are easy to recognize (except perhaps for the closely related Favites species) that looks very much the same but is classified as a different coral.
Care
Because these corals come mostly from areas where water quality is not all that good, they are not as demanding as many other corals and will do well in aquariums. They can certainly be considered a beginner's coral. This is interesting to note as there are not many that fall in this category (Plerogyra sinuosa is another one, the Bubble coral).
While the above may give you the idea that this is a coral that does not require much care, such is not the case. It is hardy, yes. It does however need care just as any other animal does.
It is recommended that you pay attention to two main factors:
Lighting
Nutrient supply
This does not mean that other water quality parameters can be disregarded of course but that lighting and nutrient supply are important with respect to Favia corals.
Why is this so?
Lighting
Favia species if often found at depth of 25 to 30 feet and is therefore not accustomed to high intensity lighting but, rather, to lots of blue. When first placing such a coral in your tank it is prudent to shield it somewhat from too strong lighting (this is especially the case if you are using metal halide lights or several VHO type bulbs). Once the coral acclimates though, it can gradually be exposed to more lighting.
The amount of pigmentation is usually a give-away in this respect. Favia with lots of pigments are protecting themselves from too much UV lighting. Specimens with lots of green pigmentation will do very well under metal halides even when they are close to the surface where intensity is highest.
Among the different types you will find some that have hardly any pigmentation and are therefore used to higher amounts of lighting. Still, it is a good practice to increase the amount of light exposure such a coral receives gradually. Suddenly exposing them to a type and intensity of of light that a coral is not used to, can lead to problems.
Feeding
This is a filter feeding coral. Do not mechanically remove plankton and other free floating foodstuffs. Add fine foods to the tank from time to time to ensure that your Favia receives enough sustenance. Note that most of the feeding will occur at night (although it will feed during the day as well but more so when the lights are off).
Favia speciosa
A good practice would be to add a fine powdered food supplement to the tank, at night, at least once a week to ensure that these corals have enough food and can grow. Such foods are widely available now. The method suggested is to take the powder and make sure it is fine enough, if not grind it up a little more, then dilute it in a small amount of water, get any clumps out by breaking them up, stir well, and then add slowly to the aquarium.
Calcium Requirements
You will also need to pay careful attention to your calcium levels and maintain them between 420 and 480 ppm (low and high) with an average of 450 ppm behind a good concentration to aim for. Using kalkwasser, other forms of calcium or a calcium reactor would be a good way to do so. Combination methods of KW (kalkwasser) and a second calcium supplement appear to yield good results, especially in aquariums with a high calcium demand.
High calcium demand is usually the result of the presence of a large number of corals in the tank, as well as good coralline algae growth. Measure calcium concentrations on a regular schedule and adjust as necessary. Dripping KW on a continuous basis allows easy maintenance of high levels of bioavailable calcium and so does the use of calcium reactors.
Water Current
Water current over the corals should be moderate to strong. This keeps the coral clean and also supplies a constant amount of nutrients that it can trap with is ciliae.
This needs to be paid attention to. Since these corals are often placed towards the lower parts of the aquarium, it is important to ensure that enough current exists there. You will need to test that this is indeed so. If detritus accumulates on the coral it will try to rid itself of it by means of it ciliae but can only do so in limited amounts. Good water currents ensure that the coral remains clean.
Because current is really important in all reef tanks, especially turbulence, you should make it a point to test it by placing a small piece of detritus close to the coral and determine whether the amount of current in that area does indeed wash that detritus away. Follow where it goes. It should ideally end up in the overlow so the skimmer can take care of it and remove it from the system.
Note that current, in the context of what we are trying to achieve, is defined as turbulence, the moving of water in all directions in irregular patterns, and not as laminar current or unidirectional current.
Other Additives
As with other corals, the addition of a high quality complete supplement is recommneded. The corals will uptake the nutrients and other ingredients directly from the water.
Favia Corals appear to do well in aquariums that are well balanced and well skimmed and can certainly take a bout of lesser water quality conditions. However since most of us have many other corals in our tanks, this is not likely to be a situation that they are often subjected to.
Alkalinity levels of anywhere from 7 and upwards as measured in dKH appear to be fine and even higher ones are easily tolerated. In one aquarium of mine, several years ago, when the use of limewater had not become the norm for maintaining calcium, I ran a dKH of 15 (which was what many authors recommended at the time; Wilkens in fact recommended levels up to 22), and the two Favia corals in that tank did extremely well.
Whereas there is no evidence that extra iodine or strontium are required, since so many other corals require both of them, most hobbyists add them to their aquariums anyway. As a result Favia corals present in such aquariums can uptake it all the same.
Extra additions of trace elements are not necesary as long as you use a complete reef additive as indicated earlier.
In some recent material in various publication authors such as Ron Shimek and Craig Bingham suggest that bromine may be a needed supplement for all corals. Indeed it is present in natural seawaters and is not present in artificial salts. Since no conclusive evidence is available at this time, judgement as to the need for this supplement will have to be defered until we can find out more information. It would make sense though that corals would benefit from it as its concentration in natural seawater is high.
One note of caution though, if bromine is added to your aquarium, ozone cannot be used as it will create toxic by-products.
Water Quality parameters
Although, as indicated, these corals can live in rather nasty water from a quality standpoint, it is not recommended that you let your water quality deteriorate since, more than likely, you have other corals in your aquarium. Most if not all of these require the high water quality levels that we all strive to achieve.
Keep all levels at what is generally recommended. Other articles on this site and on http://www.******.com contain more details on what general water quality parameters are suggested. You may wish to consult those articles. Should you have any questions about water quality or the articles feel free to Email me.
Compatibility
Favia corals are real strong stingers and they should be kept at a distance from other corals and invertebrates, and sometimes even from each other.
Mushrooms, Elegance coral, any form of Euphyllia, Star polyps, and even Leather corals need to be far enough away from you Favia sp. so stinging and nettling cannot occur. Given the fact that Favia is such a powerful stinger, I suggest you keep any and all corals beyond its reach. Better safe than sorry.
In nature this coral is often found in areas where nothing else grows. This is attributed by some to the fact that Favia can survive in water where other corals cannot one one hand, but also to the fact that a number of Favia corals located in one and the same area will drive anything else away or prevent it from growing.
Watching a video of a real reef not too long ago, I noticed that algae where not even present in areas with large amounts of these corals. Whether they actually help us in algae control in our aquariums is untested but may be the case. One would have to collect data over time from hobbyists who have these corals and determine whether any algae actually manage to grow around them or not.
This would be an interesting test to perform. Anyone with input on this matter is certainly welcome to send me Email.
Note that certain animals can gain the upperhand and inflict damage to the coral: bristle worms and certain shrimp. Peter Wilkens suggests that Saron and Rhynchocinetes shrimp will attach your Favia and other corals and should not be kept in reef tanks.
He also suggests that Centropyge Pigmy Angels should not be kept in reef tanks. I have found out from personal experiences that such is indeed a real accurate recommendation as these fish will pick at corals and harass them, resulting in corals closing and not being able to photosynthesize and feed.
I got this from a page, enjoy!
[ December 19, 2001: Message edited by: Treble ]
Albert J. Thiel
Favia Corals are actually not that uncommon in the hobby if you seek them out from stores that specialize in LPS ones and concentrate their efforts on reef tanks.
Several varieties are around and can either be found or ordered from pet stores as they are imported. The ones that I have run across include:
Favia amirocum
Favia maxima
Favia speciosa
Favia flavescens
Favia coeruleus
Favia maeandrinea,
and there are others still
According to literature though there are many more varieties that have not been classified yet (Wilkens, P. 1990). This should come as no surprise as thousands of corals have not been classified (just think of the number of Actinodiscus mushrooms that no one ever categorized).
Description
Favia species exhibit fleshy polyps that have their own cups and can expand and contract rather quickly. This is especially the case if they are harassed by fish, shrimp, bristle worms, urchins and anything else that may crawl around and touch them. Mind you they are powerful stingers themselves.
The graphic shows a portion of F. amicorum.
These are generally solitary corals found in areas where not many other life forms grow. This is interesting to notice. Indeed they are found in real turbid and low quality water which makes them ideal for aquariums of course. In fact, the water in your aquarium may often be of better quality than the water these corals are found.
Roundish in shape and looking like half a ball (most of them), they are easy to recognize (except perhaps for the closely related Favites species) that looks very much the same but is classified as a different coral.
Care
Because these corals come mostly from areas where water quality is not all that good, they are not as demanding as many other corals and will do well in aquariums. They can certainly be considered a beginner's coral. This is interesting to note as there are not many that fall in this category (Plerogyra sinuosa is another one, the Bubble coral).
While the above may give you the idea that this is a coral that does not require much care, such is not the case. It is hardy, yes. It does however need care just as any other animal does.
It is recommended that you pay attention to two main factors:
Lighting
Nutrient supply
This does not mean that other water quality parameters can be disregarded of course but that lighting and nutrient supply are important with respect to Favia corals.
Why is this so?
Lighting
Favia species if often found at depth of 25 to 30 feet and is therefore not accustomed to high intensity lighting but, rather, to lots of blue. When first placing such a coral in your tank it is prudent to shield it somewhat from too strong lighting (this is especially the case if you are using metal halide lights or several VHO type bulbs). Once the coral acclimates though, it can gradually be exposed to more lighting.
The amount of pigmentation is usually a give-away in this respect. Favia with lots of pigments are protecting themselves from too much UV lighting. Specimens with lots of green pigmentation will do very well under metal halides even when they are close to the surface where intensity is highest.
Among the different types you will find some that have hardly any pigmentation and are therefore used to higher amounts of lighting. Still, it is a good practice to increase the amount of light exposure such a coral receives gradually. Suddenly exposing them to a type and intensity of of light that a coral is not used to, can lead to problems.
Feeding
This is a filter feeding coral. Do not mechanically remove plankton and other free floating foodstuffs. Add fine foods to the tank from time to time to ensure that your Favia receives enough sustenance. Note that most of the feeding will occur at night (although it will feed during the day as well but more so when the lights are off).
Favia speciosa
A good practice would be to add a fine powdered food supplement to the tank, at night, at least once a week to ensure that these corals have enough food and can grow. Such foods are widely available now. The method suggested is to take the powder and make sure it is fine enough, if not grind it up a little more, then dilute it in a small amount of water, get any clumps out by breaking them up, stir well, and then add slowly to the aquarium.
Calcium Requirements
You will also need to pay careful attention to your calcium levels and maintain them between 420 and 480 ppm (low and high) with an average of 450 ppm behind a good concentration to aim for. Using kalkwasser, other forms of calcium or a calcium reactor would be a good way to do so. Combination methods of KW (kalkwasser) and a second calcium supplement appear to yield good results, especially in aquariums with a high calcium demand.
High calcium demand is usually the result of the presence of a large number of corals in the tank, as well as good coralline algae growth. Measure calcium concentrations on a regular schedule and adjust as necessary. Dripping KW on a continuous basis allows easy maintenance of high levels of bioavailable calcium and so does the use of calcium reactors.
Water Current
Water current over the corals should be moderate to strong. This keeps the coral clean and also supplies a constant amount of nutrients that it can trap with is ciliae.
This needs to be paid attention to. Since these corals are often placed towards the lower parts of the aquarium, it is important to ensure that enough current exists there. You will need to test that this is indeed so. If detritus accumulates on the coral it will try to rid itself of it by means of it ciliae but can only do so in limited amounts. Good water currents ensure that the coral remains clean.
Because current is really important in all reef tanks, especially turbulence, you should make it a point to test it by placing a small piece of detritus close to the coral and determine whether the amount of current in that area does indeed wash that detritus away. Follow where it goes. It should ideally end up in the overlow so the skimmer can take care of it and remove it from the system.
Note that current, in the context of what we are trying to achieve, is defined as turbulence, the moving of water in all directions in irregular patterns, and not as laminar current or unidirectional current.
Other Additives
As with other corals, the addition of a high quality complete supplement is recommneded. The corals will uptake the nutrients and other ingredients directly from the water.
Favia Corals appear to do well in aquariums that are well balanced and well skimmed and can certainly take a bout of lesser water quality conditions. However since most of us have many other corals in our tanks, this is not likely to be a situation that they are often subjected to.
Alkalinity levels of anywhere from 7 and upwards as measured in dKH appear to be fine and even higher ones are easily tolerated. In one aquarium of mine, several years ago, when the use of limewater had not become the norm for maintaining calcium, I ran a dKH of 15 (which was what many authors recommended at the time; Wilkens in fact recommended levels up to 22), and the two Favia corals in that tank did extremely well.
Whereas there is no evidence that extra iodine or strontium are required, since so many other corals require both of them, most hobbyists add them to their aquariums anyway. As a result Favia corals present in such aquariums can uptake it all the same.
Extra additions of trace elements are not necesary as long as you use a complete reef additive as indicated earlier.
In some recent material in various publication authors such as Ron Shimek and Craig Bingham suggest that bromine may be a needed supplement for all corals. Indeed it is present in natural seawaters and is not present in artificial salts. Since no conclusive evidence is available at this time, judgement as to the need for this supplement will have to be defered until we can find out more information. It would make sense though that corals would benefit from it as its concentration in natural seawater is high.
One note of caution though, if bromine is added to your aquarium, ozone cannot be used as it will create toxic by-products.
Water Quality parameters
Although, as indicated, these corals can live in rather nasty water from a quality standpoint, it is not recommended that you let your water quality deteriorate since, more than likely, you have other corals in your aquarium. Most if not all of these require the high water quality levels that we all strive to achieve.
Keep all levels at what is generally recommended. Other articles on this site and on http://www.******.com contain more details on what general water quality parameters are suggested. You may wish to consult those articles. Should you have any questions about water quality or the articles feel free to Email me.
Compatibility
Favia corals are real strong stingers and they should be kept at a distance from other corals and invertebrates, and sometimes even from each other.
Mushrooms, Elegance coral, any form of Euphyllia, Star polyps, and even Leather corals need to be far enough away from you Favia sp. so stinging and nettling cannot occur. Given the fact that Favia is such a powerful stinger, I suggest you keep any and all corals beyond its reach. Better safe than sorry.
In nature this coral is often found in areas where nothing else grows. This is attributed by some to the fact that Favia can survive in water where other corals cannot one one hand, but also to the fact that a number of Favia corals located in one and the same area will drive anything else away or prevent it from growing.
Watching a video of a real reef not too long ago, I noticed that algae where not even present in areas with large amounts of these corals. Whether they actually help us in algae control in our aquariums is untested but may be the case. One would have to collect data over time from hobbyists who have these corals and determine whether any algae actually manage to grow around them or not.
This would be an interesting test to perform. Anyone with input on this matter is certainly welcome to send me Email.
Note that certain animals can gain the upperhand and inflict damage to the coral: bristle worms and certain shrimp. Peter Wilkens suggests that Saron and Rhynchocinetes shrimp will attach your Favia and other corals and should not be kept in reef tanks.
He also suggests that Centropyge Pigmy Angels should not be kept in reef tanks. I have found out from personal experiences that such is indeed a real accurate recommendation as these fish will pick at corals and harass them, resulting in corals closing and not being able to photosynthesize and feed.
I got this from a page, enjoy!
[ December 19, 2001: Message edited by: Treble ]