Blue is sick - tail looks bloody

S

saxman

Guest
Glad to hear the fish is doing better!
As for temp, we never run our setups above 76*F or 77*F. There is really no good reason to do so, and it gives you a little more "fudge factor" if your ambient room temp spikes or your heater malfunctions (they always seem to stick in the "on" position).
If your fish is flashing on the rocks, it's likely trying to rid itself from ectoparasites such as ******. The fish was stressed, and this is when other pathology tends to take hold. Keep a close watch on it.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
I'm ok with 79-80 temp.
pH should not drop below 8.0.
Are you using selcon or zeocon?
 

calypsois

Member
Beth:
Thanks so much!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beth http:///t/394499/blue-is-sick-tail-looks-bloody/20#post_3512218
I'm ok with 79-80 temp.
pH should not drop below 8.0.
- I'm thinking I should get the buffer that starts with a "k". (I'll check your FAQ's.)
Are you using selcon or zeocon?

- Zoecon

Also, posted this earlier today: - Got more testing equipment to use instead of the strips.

--- pH: 7.8 at 1:30 PM yesterday
---------7.9? at 7 PM yesterday
----------7.9? at 9:45 AM today
--- cal >520 yesterday
--- carbonate (alkalinity): 11/196.9 yesterday
What about the calcium and alkalinity?
(Of course, I always like to deal with 1 thing at a time.)
 

calypsois

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/394499/blue-is-sick-tail-looks-bloody/20#post_3512206
Glad to hear the fish is doing better!
As for temp, we never run our setups above 76*F or 77*F. There is really no good reason to do so, and it gives you a little more "fudge factor" if your ambient room temp spikes or your heater malfunctions (they always seem to stick in the "on" position).
If your fish is flashing on the rocks, it's likely trying to rid itself from ectoparasites such as ******. The fish was stressed, and this is when other pathology tends to take hold. Keep a close watch on it.
Thanks, Saxman. Yes, watching Blue verrrrrrrry closely.
 

calypsois

Member
Hi Beth:

Trying to have a reef tank. Corals haven't done well though. Have 2 in there - maybe 1 is alive? Have a leather and another that I'd like to bring into the aquarium after everything's all straightened out. My other aquarium is a bio cube. The corals love it in there.

[*]
Been doing the 2-gal water changes
[*]
And the improved diet:
[*]
Dry food AM

Dry and frozen mixed with zoe PM

Temp is 79 now; it will go up after the lights come on in a couple hours.

Will be doing some water tests today.

All fish: Blue, the pair of clowns and the cleaner wrasse are doing well.
Very little rock-scraping by Blue going on and hoping his HLLE is completely gone soon. Thanks so much!
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Ok, if your tank will stabilize with a temp of 80 then do that. If the lights are causing a lot of temp fluxuations between on and off periods, then that could be a problem. What is the temp with the lights on?
What type of lighting do you have?
 

calypsois

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beth http:///t/394499/blue-is-sick-tail-looks-bloody/20#post_3512296
Ok, if your tank will stabilize with a temp of 80 then do that. If the lights are causing a lot of temp fluxuations between on and off periods, then that could be a problem. What is the temp with the lights on?
What type of lighting do you have?

OMG! Finally found the light book I got out and then misplaced the other day. It is a Coralife High Output T5 Lunar Aqualight: daylight, actinic and blue moon glow. Blue on 24/7 and others 10 hrs/day. Too long, huh? Heater not budging below 82-guess I'm not turning enough. I'll try again. Meantime bigger probs.


*** Blue is not happy. He seems to be trying to shake something off. See new pics: Is this ICK?


Pics 1, 3 are both his left fin

Don't know if pic 2 is accurate; I don't see all that white stuff by eye.

HELP!!!


 

calypsois

Member
pH: 7.8 . . . rats!
NO3: 40 . . . more rats!!!
SG: 1.031
Temp: 82 . . . Will get it down to 80

Pls see pics of Blue 2 posts above with white stuff . . . yikes!
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
You should turn all the lights off after 10 hours. Fish need to sleep.
Are you using zoecon or selcon?
This fish has a bad case of HLLE. Are those dots round or irregular shape? Describe them.
 

calypsois

Member
Also: 30-gal I've been using to make saltwater for the 2-gal swaps in main tank has 18 gals - heated. If fish need to be in HT, I can add a little sand, a rock and some? water from main tank to this 30-gal. Also have a PVC elbow that should be big enough for Blue. I assume Blue + his tank-mates would all make the move? There are 2 percula clowns and a cleaner wrasse.. The side fins on Mr. Clean are looking really short. Think the clowns are OK. Blue's rt side doesn't look so bad. Not good that the wrasse has it? too.
 

calypsois

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beth http:///t/394499/blue-is-sick-tail-looks-bloody/20#post_3512706
You should turn all the lights off after 10 hours. Fish need to sleep.
Are you using zoecon or selcon?
This fish has a bad case of HLLE. Are those dots round or irregular shape? Describe them.
OK - all lights will be out after 10 hrs
Using Zoecon
Spots - patchy on Blue's lt side fin. Kinda looks like scrapes on his face front. He's not scraping on the rocks any more.

 

ak_reefer

Member
One thing when setting up a hospital tank do Not add sand or live rock. You can use PVC pipe for the fish to use for shelter. You can also pant the bottom of the tank which helps as well with disorientation.
Sent From my Frontal Lobes via TapaTalk!!
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
There is no need for a hospital tank to treat HLLE. This syndrome results due to environmental and/or nutritional inadequacies. You have high nitrates which tangs just do not tolerate this well.
Now, do you actually see any ich on this fish? I can't really see any on those pics.
 

calypsois

Member
So glad to hear that. I'm not thinking ich either, any more. See pics. Playing around with different lighting, because white areas were showing up on the fish that I didn't see by eye. (Especially on texture of Blue's face.) These look better, except for reflections on the glass.



- So I'll continue with the 2-gal water changes

- What about buffer?

- pH: 7.9

- NO3: 40

Darn! Maybe I shouldn't have tried scraping algae off the back wall. Caught most in net, but not all, of course.
Thanks so much.
PS Do you think the cleaner wrasse has lost any length of his side fins? (See last pic.)

.
.




 

ak_reefer

Member
I was answering his question if he had to set up a hospital tank which he asked about in his post. Advising that if he did to Not put sand or Live rock in it.
Sent From my Frontal Lobes via TapaTalk!!
 

calypsois

Member
Thanks, AK.
- Got some blue-leg and turban crabs to help clean up
- Will be scraping/sucking off the remaining algae from the back wall
- Purchased Reef buffer by Seachem to raise pH from its current 7.9

- By the way - I use RO water
 
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