Brown algae / salt mix

Bob Sterling

Bob Sterling

New Member
I have always gotten sound advice in this forum and I appreciate all of the shared wisdom! As I reach the end of the cycling of my new 40 gallon reef tank, I have two new questions:

1. As mentioned, my 40 gallon hexagonal reef tank has been cycling for the past 6 weeks and I believe it is near the end. I now have the brown algae (diatoms) growing on my live rock and decorations and I read in several other posts that this usually signals the end of the cycling process. I am a new reefer, so I did something stupid by using tap water for my initial fill. I have since heard that was probably a bad idea. I just did a 25% water change today using RO water. My question: If I am diligent with the 25% weekly water changes using RO water, can I reverse my mistake without doing a 100% water change? The water parameters are good except for nitrates. As of yesterday (before today's water change), the nitrates are 40ppm. This is cut in half from last week where the nitrates tested at 80ppm. Nitrite = 0.0, Ammonia = 0.0, PH = 8.0 ( I have heard this should be a touch higher). I want to eliminate this brown algae and I want to ask if you think I am taking the correct approach?

2. I am using Instant Ocean salt and mixing my change water the day before the change. I mixed today's water yesterday around noon. This salt appears to be stubborn to dissolve completely. After 26 hours, there was still a small mound of salt settled in the bottom of the container. I mixed it well and stirred it on several occasions. What salt is most people using for a reef tank? Instant Ocean reef crystals or maybe Red Sea salt? Also, what is your method for mixing the solution? Do you also have problems with undissolved particles?

Thanks for all the help!
 
lmforbis

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
You will know your cycle is over when your ammonia and nitrite read 0 and stay there. Don't worry about the tap it will get diluted over time. It will make your diatom bloom worse as it contains silica.
I also use instant ocean salt (I use the reef crystals). It isn't fast to go into solution. I use a pump to mix it then add tubing to the pump to pump it into the tank. It works better if the water isn't heated, then I let the pump mix it over night. I typically don't heat the water I use for water changes. I make the water for the next water change immediately after I finnish changing it. This way it is ready just in case I have an emergency
It sounds like you are doing things right. .
 
Bob Sterling

Bob Sterling

New Member
Thanks for the quick reply! I will continue the weekly water changes and monitor the parameters closely. I forgot to mention about my lighting. I am using a Current USA Orbit Marine LED fixture and I turned the intensity way down to stop fueling the algae bloom. I do not plan on adding any marine life until after we return from our vacation on the 23rd. I hope everything is stabilized by then. Also, I believe I will start using the reef crystals and using a pump to mix the water as you mentioned. Thanks again!
 
lmforbis

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
It depends on what you consider dramatically. Mine are usually between 10 and 25. Many consider that too high. It doesn't cause any problems in my tank. It would be nice if they were a little bit lower but I can't maintain that so I stopped worrying about it.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
I agree what do your consider a dramatic drop. in a reef it should be less then 1 PPM NO3-N ideally BUT it needs not be kept that low. in fact 40 PPM nitrogen can encourage growth in corals.Where very high nitrates effect a tank is when you maintain corals. high nitrates deplete calcium and alkalinity
 
Bob Sterling

Bob Sterling

New Member
Yeah, I was going by the marine parameters for a reef tank that is listed on SWF. I am going to continue with the weekly water changes and once the nitrates come down to <10 I am going to introduce some corals to the tank. Thanks for all the input.
 
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