Brown Algae wont go away

dingo0722

Member
First,
ph 8.2
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 0
phosphate 0
calcium 345
alk 9dkh
This 90g tank has been running for over 6 years. When I moved(6 months ago) I set up the tank just like before. I used tap water for the first and second fill after moving(1st month of re-setup). I noticed a spike in phosphate, so I bought a RO/DI system and have been using it since, while running Kent phosphate sponge to rid the phosphates. The system has been at the current levels for 4 months now. I have been working on raising the calcium level but I don’t think that is the problem. I had a brown algae bloom after the first month and it wont go away. I increased my cleanup crew with 12 more large turbo, and 25 more hermit(I am unsure how many are in the tank before the increase) 6 weeks ago. They seem to eat the algae, but it grows faster than they eat. I don’t want to add any more snails and crabs to the tank. To remove the algae should I vacuum the gravel and the live rock? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Lighting: 2 110w vho actinic, 2 175w MH 6500k
11 hours on for the MH, 12 hours on VHO per day
Filters: wet/dry, Magnum 350 and, protien skimmer
 

usinkit

Member
there is probly a good amount of phosephates in the tank still. its still leaching out of the liverock most likely. it may take awhile longer for the water to be completely made up of ro/di.
 

zman1

Active Member
Originally Posted by dingo0722
Lighting: 2 110w vho actinic, 2 175w MH 6500k
11 hours on for the MH, 12 hours on VHO per day
Filters: wet/dry, Magnum 350 and, protien skimmer
I didn't know you could get 6500k in 175w. Thought they started at 250W
Beside what you have done and the previous poster said. How old are the bulbs? Have you thought about cutting your photo period down?
 

dingo0722

Member
Coral life makes the 175w 6500k MH bulbs. They were purchased 03/05, so they are not the problem. Would cutting down on my lighting period help with this problem? I have a few polyps’, soft coral and anemones and was concerned about doing this. If I cut the period down for a week to 6 hours MH 7 VHO would the photosynthetic corals be ok?
 

usinkit

Member
for a few days it wont hurt. the anemones my freak a bit. but thats just putting a bandaid on problem. i would just keep doing water changes like normal with rodi water and wait and see if the phosphates go away.
 

sillynecco

Member
perhaps use a filter or phosphate absorber. I was running into the same problem myself.
things to remember,
cut down on the feeding
cut down on the lighting
keep up on water changes
cut the lighting down 20%
as for siphoning the gravel, i was told not to do that, but you might have to if there is a lot of unwanted

[hr]
in the tank.
good luck
 

zman1

Active Member
Besides not using RO the first time and I think you said "while running Kent phosphate sponge to rid the phosphates."
You don't have any old pellet carbon in your Magnum 350 filter do you?
4 Months seems like a long time to be battling this from a move, granted you didn't use RO/DI the first or second time. Have you done any water changes with your new RO/DI?
Have you tested your water before adding it to the tank for a base line?
 

dingo0722

Member
I am using IO but am thinking about switching to Reef Crystals. I was changing my water every 2 weeks, 30 gallons using RODI water. I read on a post here, dealing with this problem, that you should reduce you water change frequency so that the algea will use up all the minerals that they need to grow and your cleanup crew will finish off the algea. I have done this, it will be a month this weekend and I am planning on changing the water on Sat.
My magnum only has Kent phosphate sponge, no carbon, in it which I changed regulaly.
I also have reduced my feeding to once a day from twice aday. If I feed them any less my fish will kill my snails and crabs.
I guess I will reduce my lighting a bit, do a water change, and try to remove as much algea I can while changing the water
 
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