Brownish greenish algae

cynthia

New Member
I have a brownish greenish algae growing all over my live rock.It is hairy and seems to be killing my polyps. After the algae started I started getting a really dark purplish growth that looks like mushrooms or sponges in various places on my rock. Can anybody tell me what it is and should I get rid of it and if so how?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cynthia http:///t/391122/brownish-greenish-algae#post_3467138
I have a brownish greenish algae growing all over my live rock.It is hairy and seems to be killing my polyps. After the algae started I started getting a really dark purplish growth that looks like mushrooms or sponges in various places on my rock. Can anybody tell me what it is and should I get rid of it and if so how?
Welcome to the site...
Can you post a picture...It sounds like cyanobacteria and a mix of diatoms.
Please answer the following questions:
How large is the tank?
How long has it been set up?
How much are you feeding?
What kind of lights and how old are the bulbs?
What are the test result readings?...just saying all is good won't help.
Are you using tap or RO (reverse osmoses) water?
 

cynthia

New Member
Sorry to reply so late having computer problems. I have a 90 gal. reef tank. I've had it for over three years. I use RO water. My temp ranges between 78 and 82 degrees. My ammonia, nitrite and phosphate are 0. My iodine is .02 The nitrate ranges between 30 and 40. PH is 8.0.Gravity is 1.21. I have 8 lights. T5HO 54 watt. 4 are blue and 4 bright. I was leaving the 4 astinic on for 10 hours and the brights for 8. I have decreased that to all on for 6 hours. I was feeding once a day but have cut down to every other day. The brownish greenish algae has turned all green. The deep purple growth that looks like a sponge is fairly easy to pull off. What do you think? I'll try to send a picture if you still need one.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
What is the TDS reading on your RO Unit, and do you test it? How do you know for a fact that the RO water you are putting in your tank is pure and clean to begin with?
What salt mix are you using?
What test kits are you using and how old are they?
How old are your bulbs? I know you told us how long they are on each day, but how long has it been since you changed them last? Also, what brand of bulbs are they?
How much internal flow do you have in your tank? IE the gph coming from all of the powerheads in your tank... Example.... a 20g aquarium needs 400gph minimum for a total of 20x turnover rate. A 75g tank x 20 (turnover rate) = 1500gph of flow from all the powerheads minimum.
It also matters where the powerheads are located, and if you are getting detritus out of your tank.
If you don't have enough sand stirrers and detrivores like nassarius snails, cleaner clams, brittle stars etc. the sandbed can become septic - where nitrate and phosphate clog the sandbed and then it slowly leaches back into the tank.
I do not believe that your nitrates and phosphates are zero. They may be zero because algae is consuming it, but I know for a fact that your tank is no longer handling the bioload that easily.
Do you have a refugium with a light that is changed every three months? What algae do you grow?
Do you have a protein skimmer that you regularly maintain and get at least one cup of skimmate every three to four days?
Have you ever maintained your sandbed with a gravel vac once every six months to a year or have you added stand stirrers and a cup of sand from another established tank at least once a year?
 

cynthia

New Member
I have crushed coral for my sand bed. I vacuum it every month with a water change. I have hermit crabs, emerald crab, snails, cleaner clams and a brittle star. I have a refugium with an ultra violet light attached. I just bought my phosphate kit and my phosphates do read zero. My nitrate is between 30 and 40. I use Instant Ocean reef salt. I do a 20 gal. water change every 2 or 3 weeks. The brand on my lights is Current. I tested my OR water and it seems OK but I have ordered a new OR/DI unit. My other test kits are about 2 years old. Oh yeah I just replaced the light in my UV clarifier. I can't find the paper work on my pump but I got it from the same place I bought all my equipment from and had them origionally set it up. He assured me it was the correct type and it has done a great job for three years. Before this stuff showed up I really didn't have any algae except what would grow on the glass.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
A single pump for a 90g? All pumps loose umph over time. You may need to up your water current in the tank. Algae blooms create a false negative reading on phosphate tests, the algae feeds off the PO4 and all the tests will read 0, but there is enough PO4 to feed the algae. Test kits have a 1 year life span as a rule, so 2 years means it's time to purchase a new master kit..
Your nitrates are high for a reef tank.
You don't need a new RO/DI unit but you may need new filters for it. To be honest the UV sterilizer bulb may be all you really needed. It sounds like that is what has kept the hair algae away so far.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
You keep talking about your UV lights, but what about your main lighting system? You said its currant - when have you replaced your main display lighting bulbs?
You definitely don't have enough water flow.
It's good that you are gravel vac'ing your crushed coral. Keep it up.
Do you have a sump and enough room to add some macroalgae to your system?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/391122/brownish-greenish-algae#post_3468108
You keep talking about your UV lights, but what about your main lighting system? You said its currant - when have you replaced your main display lighting bulbs?
You definitely don't have enough water flow.
It's good that you are gravel vac'ing your crushed coral. Keep it up.
Do you have a sump and enough room to add some macroalgae to your system?
I totally agree with you Snake.....I think the OP has lots of issues and the only thing that was hiding the water quality decline was the UV light, when that got tired all the bad algae is free to grow. With the UV fixed there is now time to fix what is not quite right. As you said, more water flow, new bulbs on the main system and add some macros.
 

cynthia

New Member
Thanks guys. I did replace 2 of the lights a few months ago, guess I need to replace the others. I will get a new test kit. So you say I should have another pump going? OK, I have one I'll set it up. I do have a sump but how do I get or where do I get any macroalgae to put in it. I don't know anyone around here that has a reef tank except me. I ordered a new RO/DI unit because it wasn't that much more than replacing all the filters and the membrane. I really do appreciate all the help. I was told, supposedly by a reef expert, that 30 to 40 on the nitrate was nothing to worry about. Oh well!
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cynthia http:///t/391122/brownish-greenish-algae#post_3468178
Thanks guys. I did replace 2 of the lights a few months ago, guess I need to replace the others. I will get a new test kit. So you say I should have another pump going? OK, I have one I'll set it up. I do have a sump but how do I get or where do I get any macroalgae to put in it. I don't know anyone around here that has a reef tank except me. I ordered a new RO/DI unit because it wasn't that much more than replacing all the filters and the membrane. I really do appreciate all the help. I was told, supposedly by a reef expert, that 30 to 40 on the nitrate was nothing to worry about. Oh well!
SWF sells Chaeto for a refugium if you have a chamber in the sump. You shouldn't put any macro in a sump around your pumps. It could clogg it up.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Kill you lights completely for a few days and stop adding food.
The algae should die off.
Then resume with less lighting and less feeding.
Chaeto in a refugium will help and the refugium can be nothing more then a partition so a small portion of the tank is macros protected from livestock by the partition. I also put some side lighting pointing directly at the macros through the glass as well.
my .02
 
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