building a canopy/ step by step

[jlem]

Well I am starting a 125 gallon canopy with 2 18 inch doors and a lifting top. I will try to be as detailed as I can. Kep in mind that you can use a circular saw for all of the cuts exept for the routering.
Materials
14ft of 1 by 12 Idaho pine. I cut this to 6ft 2 inches ( front ), 18 1/2 inch ( side times 2 ), and 18 inch ( door times 2 ). The doors I ran thru my table saw to make then 10 inches instead of 12 inches wide. I then ran the 2 inches of scrap through my table saw again at the 1 inch mark so I could use those for stand offs. I cut the 1 inch lenths at 6 inch lenths for the stand offs.
4 by 8 sheet of 3/4 inch birch for the top and for the stand which comes later. I cut the top 72 3/8 inch by 18 3/8 inch. I also cut a piece 3 inches by 72 1/2 for the back top cross brace that the top will attach to with hinges.
The picture does not show the birch since I will cut those later.

 

[jlem]

Next step is to run a bead of glue on the points where the side meets the front panel. I use PRO BOND Wood glue and really like it. I use clamps to hold the side tight to the front while the glue sets. I use a square to make sure that the side is square. Adjusting where the clamps sit against the wood will pull the side square so it takes may take a little adjusting.

 

[jlem]

clamped

 

[jlem]

The clamps will hold the sides snug, so while the sides set I mark 3/4 inch along the front panel and the sides where my stand offs will go to hold the lid up and 1 1/2 inch where the canopy will sit on the tank.

 

[jlem]

I place a little bit of glue on the stand offs and let the glue set before I nail or screw them down ( usually takes about 5 minutes ). any place that wood meets wood I use glue. Notice that the corner standoffs meet eachother and are glued at the joint for added strenth. I also put a set of stand offs in the middle to prevent any sagging across the front.
Stand offs can really be added at any time prior to the top being attached so whichever is easier for the builder.

 

[jlem]

after the glue has set for an hour or so I flip the top over and run my nail gun ( 2 1/2 inch finishing nails ) along the front to hold the sides to the front. If you choose to use screws make sure to predrill the holes so you don't split the wood and counter sink your screws lower than flush so you can fill with filler to hide the screws. Don't use to big of a drill bit or else your screws won't have any wood to grip.

 

[jlem]

Next I attached the 3 inch cross brace across the back with nails or screws. The top will sit and hinge on this brace.

 

[jlem]

Here is a picture of what took an hour to do. If I did not have doors I would just attach the top with hinges, router the edges or sand them round and it would be done besides finishing sanding and staining.

 

[skirrby]

very very cool. and helpfull.. be sure to follow it up with attaching the top and hinges.. and mounting the lights and all. now we all need to just talk my dad into starting to build mine with me

 

[oceanminded]

Nice...very informative.

 

[jlem]

Next I attached the top to the back cross support with hinges. This could easily be done last but I did it now.

 

[jlem]

Next I routered the edges with a round over bit. I used to do this on my router table but found it easier to do it like this. If I was using Oak then I would have used the table, but since all pine warps a little bit it is easier to do it like this rather than on a router table.

 

[jlem]

The doors I just clamped to the table and routered as much as I could and then turned the repositioned the doors and finished. Doors and sides are definately easier to router on the router table but I did not want to have set the table up for two doors.

 

[jlem]

Now I measured equal distances from the sides and the top and bottum and marked where I will cut the door holes out with a square. The holes are 8 1/2 inches by 17 inches. The doors are 9 1/4 inches by 18 inches and will cover the holes completely. I drilled holes in the corners for the jig saw blade. Since the holes will be covered by the doors they do not have to be perfect in my opinion.

 

[jlem]

Here it with the doors cut out. I did a quick sanding around the holes because it is easier to sand the door holes when the doors are off. if you chose not to cut out door holes and go without doors then all you would do is sand it down really good, attach a knob on the lid and stain.

 

[jlem]

I measued equally on each end of the door so my hinges would match and attached the hinges. Because Pine is a soft wood be careful not to strip the screws. i sanded the doors at this time because it is easier than after the hinges are attached.

 

[jlem]

I attached the doors to the front so that their is equal overlap around the door holes. Mkae sure to press down on the hinges before attaching them to see where the door will sit once it is attached.

 

[jlem]

I used filled for any big gouges and nail, or screw holes. This stuff works awesome and is only like 2 bucks. Once sanded down you can't even tell. they have lots of different colors. You can sand it in about fifteen minutes. I use a cheap puddy knife to smooth it out.

 

[jlem]

Besides some finishng sanding I am done. Total time has been about 2 and half hours and another half an hour of sanding and the canopy will be good to go. I hope this thread helps some people out. I have built all different sizes using the same basic idea. Adding trim is easy to do and is a great way to hide screw holes. I strongly suggest getting a router. A craftsman is under $70.00 and another $10.00 for a round over bit, which is nothing compared to what you will save by making your own canopy. I will be doing a thread on a matching stand next week so give me any hints on how I could improve a thread before then.

 

[jlem]

bump.