Building a Stand
- Thread starter yannifish
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yannifish
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/390618/building-a-stand#post_3461263
To be quite frank with you, yanni...I don't see why you'd possibly need that much vertical bracing for a 75g tank. If I had the option I'd drop the legs in the center of the stand and add some more horizontal braces across the top. Then stuff a 40 breeder under there. You really limit yourself going with a single 20g sump. I've seen a couple builds just on this site alone with that same combo and micro bubbles is an every present issue. You have to end up cutting your flow way down and restrict yourself on options for different sizes or variations of possible future equipment.
With your current design you will need to expand the width of the stand by at least a couple of inches even to be able to fit a 20g under there through the end like you mentioned. You'd want at least 13" space in order for the tank to fit in. Add the dimensions of your two 2x4's on the corners which are 3.5" a piece which gives you 7". So take 7" and add 13" on top of that and you'll need to build a stand which is approximately 21" wide. Otherwise I don't see if fitting through the door openings. You'd have to make the stand pretty tall in order to do that.
You can get just as much water volume using a 40 breeder for a sump as you can a 55g because of the extra width a breeder tank will give you over a 55g.
Just my .02
Okay. I'm assuming you'd add the horizontal braces width wise, not length wise?
The dimensions of the stand shown is 50x22x36. In the corners, the inside vertical braces (not cripple studs) have both a 2x4 and 2x2, the 2x2 making the opening between the vertical braces on the end 13". So with those dimensions I could slide a 20 gallon in there.
However, I hear you about the larger sump. Not opposed to that at all. As long as I could eliminate the center vertical brace I would be more than willing to put in a larger sump. More room for everything and more water.
And I was never really planning on using the 55 as a sump. I would like little room for other stuff under the stand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/390618/building-a-stand/20#post_3461265
Why not move the inner legs that run to the floor/ground the the outside or on the opposite sides of the cripple studs.....It would square off the inside of the stand giving you 3" of gained space.....
Not a bad idea. I'm not sure I want the stand an extra 1.5" larger all the way around though. Certainly something to consider though.
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/390618/building-a-stand#post_3461263
To be quite frank with you, yanni...I don't see why you'd possibly need that much vertical bracing for a 75g tank. If I had the option I'd drop the legs in the center of the stand and add some more horizontal braces across the top. Then stuff a 40 breeder under there. You really limit yourself going with a single 20g sump. I've seen a couple builds just on this site alone with that same combo and micro bubbles is an every present issue. You have to end up cutting your flow way down and restrict yourself on options for different sizes or variations of possible future equipment.
With your current design you will need to expand the width of the stand by at least a couple of inches even to be able to fit a 20g under there through the end like you mentioned. You'd want at least 13" space in order for the tank to fit in. Add the dimensions of your two 2x4's on the corners which are 3.5" a piece which gives you 7". So take 7" and add 13" on top of that and you'll need to build a stand which is approximately 21" wide. Otherwise I don't see if fitting through the door openings. You'd have to make the stand pretty tall in order to do that.
You can get just as much water volume using a 40 breeder for a sump as you can a 55g because of the extra width a breeder tank will give you over a 55g.
Just my .02
Okay. I'm assuming you'd add the horizontal braces width wise, not length wise?
The dimensions of the stand shown is 50x22x36. In the corners, the inside vertical braces (not cripple studs) have both a 2x4 and 2x2, the 2x2 making the opening between the vertical braces on the end 13". So with those dimensions I could slide a 20 gallon in there.
However, I hear you about the larger sump. Not opposed to that at all. As long as I could eliminate the center vertical brace I would be more than willing to put in a larger sump. More room for everything and more water.
And I was never really planning on using the 55 as a sump. I would like little room for other stuff under the stand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/390618/building-a-stand/20#post_3461265
Why not move the inner legs that run to the floor/ground the the outside or on the opposite sides of the cripple studs.....It would square off the inside of the stand giving you 3" of gained space.....
Not a bad idea. I'm not sure I want the stand an extra 1.5" larger all the way around though. Certainly something to consider though.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/390618/building-a-stand/20#post_3461891
No comments?
Yep, I'd drop the center vertical supports and add more braces width wise for the top of the stand. That way you have the option to use which ever sump you want.
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/390618/building-a-stand/20#post_3461891
No comments?
Yep, I'd drop the center vertical supports and add more braces width wise for the top of the stand. That way you have the option to use which ever sump you want.
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/390618/building-a-stand/20#post_3462011
Are there any changes I'd have to make if I dropped the center vertical supports?
As far as I can see the corners are already well supported. I'd just beef up the cross braces on the top of the stand. You could step up to using 2x6 lumber for the top of the stand. But I don't think it's all that necessary if your part in build the stand well. I'd glue and screw all of the joints. What did you say you were using for a skin?
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/390618/building-a-stand/20#post_3462011
Are there any changes I'd have to make if I dropped the center vertical supports?
As far as I can see the corners are already well supported. I'd just beef up the cross braces on the top of the stand. You could step up to using 2x6 lumber for the top of the stand. But I don't think it's all that necessary if your part in build the stand well. I'd glue and screw all of the joints. What did you say you were using for a skin?
yannifish
Active Member
No, I agree. How wide can you get solid oak panels?
What about horizontal strength? I won't get much from the skin on the front (especially if I use solid oak), so should I put some plywood on the back?
I actually wouldn't mind having it all enclosed so I can have the fuge light on at night without lighting up the whole room.
What about horizontal strength? I won't get much from the skin on the front (especially if I use solid oak), so should I put some plywood on the back?
I actually wouldn't mind having it all enclosed so I can have the fuge light on at night without lighting up the whole room.
acrylic51
Active Member
Your strength is coming from your 2x4 or 2x6 frame work. They solid facing (skin) depending how it's attached ties the whole structure together and prevents the stand from "racking". You can find solid oak panels in 13" widths at Lowes or HomeDepot. Worse case is you can make your own panel withs either using a pocket hole design or dowel and glue to make your panels as wide as you'd like. I prefer the pocket holes. Easy to use, secure fastening and you don't mar the finished surface with ugly screws or nails....
acrylic51
Active Member
Here's a quick pic of what I was referring to about using pocket holes to create any width panel you'd like.....
You can see the pocket holes drilled on the back side of the skin of my stand....You could do this to 2" 12" boards and then rip them to exact size.....Again super easy, and with the pocket hole jig and some good wood glue your in business......
You can see the pocket holes drilled on the back side of the skin of my stand....You could do this to 2" 12" boards and then rip them to exact size.....Again super easy, and with the pocket hole jig and some good wood glue your in business......
acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/390618/building-a-stand/20#post_3465207
No I gotcha about the pocket holes. I'm just not sure I'd like how two panels together would look.
Putting 2 panels together with pocket holes vs using a old tried and true method of dowels is no different....The key or bottom line is careful selection of panels, and matching of the grain and direction to get a good looking panel.....It's done so often, just takes a bit of work.....
If you look at some plywood covered stands you'll see it's very hard to get matching consistent grain patterns.....I think it's easier with hardwood or solid lumber IMHO.
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/390618/building-a-stand/20#post_3465207
No I gotcha about the pocket holes. I'm just not sure I'd like how two panels together would look.
Putting 2 panels together with pocket holes vs using a old tried and true method of dowels is no different....The key or bottom line is careful selection of panels, and matching of the grain and direction to get a good looking panel.....It's done so often, just takes a bit of work.....
If you look at some plywood covered stands you'll see it's very hard to get matching consistent grain patterns.....I think it's easier with hardwood or solid lumber IMHO.