Building an MH Lighting fixture

nc2tarheel

nc2tarheel

Member
Ok, I'm 6 monthes into my aquarium and I have a 55gallon. I have normal flourescent lights that came with it. So I've been doing my research and found that PC lights are good for softies but nothing more. Well I want to have a variety and better just go ahead and go with the MH and not regret it. So.......
I want to build it. I've done several searches and found a little bit but not much. I've never done nothing electrical but I'm pretty handy and know I could do it. So I'm gathering my info and I'm just going to build it piece by piece, that way I won't feel like I've been set back too much (in other words, it won't seem like that to my fiance' and it'll be easier to explain spending all this $$ on LIGHTS) :joy: So, how's it done? What all do I need? Any wiring diagrams?? ANYTHING?? ALL info is appreciated. I'm gonna build hood and all. Please help me get a reef tank going :)
 
mpls man

mpls man

Active Member
from the sounds of it you want to go with MHs and PCs OR VHO , i went with 2 - 175 mhs AND 2 -96 watt pcs ( power compacts ) some like 250 watt MHs, i built my own canopy and put together the lights, very easy to put together 1ce you have everything, alll you need is the ballests , pref icecaps, i bought mine for 100.00 each, moguls , 10.00 each , bulbs.. depending what you want.. ushios i have them, 79.00 each , and pc's bought them used from this website 75.00, and metal reflector 20.00..all roughly cheep, otherwise you can go with a company to have them put together a setup for you , wireing was very easy to do though... let me know and i can send you a pic of the setup i put together for mine if you want to go this way?
 
bigdjp

bigdjp

Member
Depending on how much work you want to do I could sent you instructions and pictures on how to build MH's from scratch. I went to an electrical supply store and bought the ballasts and wired everything myself. All together I believe I spent $200.00 for everything including bulbs. Let me know.
 
nc2tarheel

nc2tarheel

Member
Ok, I'm still a newB at lighting so my question is, what should I go with?? I have a standard rectangle 55g. I want to be able to keep just about anything I want in there with no problem. What should I get?
Also MPLS, why did you have MH and PC?? Is there an advantage?
If you could post up your instructions/pix or email me at nc2tarheels@yahoo.com
BigDJ, if you could do the same I'd appreciate it. Also from the sounds of it, one of you bought your ballast from a company and one is generic at the electrical store. If this is the case, is there any advantages/disadvantages of having a cheaper one?? I appreciate all info. Like I said, I'm trying to gather as much as I can and learn as much as I can before I actually start building. I'd hate to start something then realize I SHOULD HAVE done this or that. Thanks
Keith
 
T

tizzo

Guest
I have 2 ballasts and a bulb if you want it... I sent you an email.
 
msd2

msd2

Active Member

Originally posted by nc2tarheel
It seems as if no one has answers now???? :confused: Please, anyone>?????
DIY lights have different levels of DIY :)
Since you don't have electical experience I would sugget getting the ballasts that are already wired where u just need to hookup the base that holds the bulbs. I did it this way, saves u time and doesnt really cost much more than getting the raw parts wiring and putting them in a decent looking box.
Cant tell you exactly what you need to you say exactly what you want to run... de setups are different than mogul bases, etc etc. Specify what you want to run and Im sure you will get a better response.
I personally would put 2 175wt mh - 10k and supp. with actinics pc bulbs or vho. I run mogul, or single ended bulbs from XM and had great luck with them. If you lookin for a cheap way to do this go to ----, there are several stores there that sale decent mh retrofit kits.
 
daveb

daveb

Member
When I got my metal halide retrofit equipment, I just bought some 1 x 12 boards and some moldings and raised my canopy 12 " from the factory build... was quite simple actually to do... while I was at it, it also made room to hard plumb some PVC for sump return lines and for a closed loop... and made a very neat job of wiring fans and lighting.... after finishing and staining it looks like it was purchased that way to start with...
Dave
 
bigdjp

bigdjp

Member
Sorry guys I've been working my butt off at work trying to get in as much overtime as possible before Xmas. Here is an e-mail I sent to another member on the board. I don't know if I can resize the pictures here at work but I'll try.
Here is the instructions for how I did my MH lights. These instructions are for Magnetek Ballasts. I'm not sure if this is how all ballasts will be hooked up. The materials list is for 1 ballast only. You will need to get twice as many if you plan on doing 2 ballasts.
Materials needed:
Ballast (I picked mine up from the local Electrical Supply shop.)
Electrical Project Box (These can also be picked up at the Electrical Supply shop. Although I used some old microscope light source boxes for mine.)
2 Power Cords (I used some Computer power cords that we had lying around work.)
Mogal Base Socket (I picked these up at the local Lighting shop. I could have got them from the Electrical supply shop but they were cheaper at the lighting shop)
Single Socket Electrical Outlet (You can get these from Home Depot. Just like a normal electrical out in the wall but it only has 1 plug.)
On/Off Switch (The Box I used already had one in it but they are simple to install. Just be sure to get one rated for 110 volts.)
L Bracket (I got this from Home Depot as well.)
Misc. Screws and Nuts (Home Depot)
Capacitor Bracket ( I got this from a local company called O.E.M. You may be able to find these at Radio Shack)
Wire Nuts (Home Depot)
Estimated Price list:
Ballast 47.00
Electrical Project Box 20.00
Power Cords 10.00
Mogal Base Socket 14.00
Single Socket Electrical Outlet 2.50
On/Off Switch 2.00
L Bracket .50
Misc. Screws and Nuts 2.00
Capacitor Bracket 1.00
Wire Nuts 2.00
Total 101.00 These prices are approximate. That is about what I paid for the parts here.
Instructions:
First thing I did was attach the brackets to the ballast. I then placed the ballst in the project box to check and mark for mounting. Remember that you will have to mount the ballast and the Capacitor. After marking where the ballast will be mounted remove the ballast and drill holes. You will also have to drill a hole in the back for the power cord and 2 in the front. One for the On/Off switch and one for Electrical Outlet. After all the holes are drilled, put the On/Off switch in the hole and tighten down. Also put the Single Socket Electrical Outlet in and secure. After that mount the ballast and Cap in the box. Your now ready to start wiring.
The ballast itself is a Multi-Tap ballast, meaning it can run off multiple voltages. (110, 220. ect.) You will want to use the wire marked 110, the 2 wires that are marked COMMON, and the red wire that is connected to the Cap. You can cut the rest of the wires off. I used heat shrink tape on the ends after cutting them. Once I found the wires that I would be using I cut the end off one of the power cords. (Not the end that plugs into the wall) I stripped back the outer insulation about 5 inches. I then stripped about a 1/2 of insulation off each wire. Insert the cord through the hole in back of the box that you drilled. You can put either a rubber gromet inside the hole to protect the wire or use a plastic fitting that goes around the cord and then pops into the hole. After the cord is in the box, connect the Black wire from the power cord to the IN side of the On/Off switch. Connect the OUT side of the switch to the wire on the ballast labeled 110v. Connect the White wire from the power cord to 1 of wires on the ballast labeled COMMON. The Green wire gets connected to one of the screws used to mount the ballast. After that, you will connect the Red wire from OUT side of the Capacitor to the screw on the Single Socket Electrical Outlet that is labeled BLACK. The other COMMON wire from the ballast gets connected to the screw on the Single Socket Electrical Outlet labeled WHITE. Your ballast is now wired.
Once the ballast is wired take the other Power Cord and cut the same end off. Strip back the insulation the same way you did on the first one. Cut off the Green wire because it is not needed. If your Mogal Base Socket has wires coming off it the should be Black and White. The Black wire should be connected to the center off the socket and the White should be connected to the outter ring of the socket. If the socket is not pre-wired then you will want to connect the Black wire from the power cord you just cut to the tab in the center of the socket. The White wire from the power cord gets connected to the outter ring inside the socket. Mount the Mogal sockets to the L bracket and then mount the L bracket to the canopy. Plug the cord from the Mogal socket into the Single socket electrical outlet in the ballast box. Install the light bulb and plug in the ballast box. Turn on the switch and you got light.
I used heat shrink tape on all the wire connections.
I ordered my light bulbs from a company on ---- called Sun Aquatics. They were only 30.00 a piece and work really well.
As you can see it is a little involved but to me a lot cheaper. Hope this helps.
Justin
 
oscardeuce

oscardeuce

Active Member
A couple of ?'s
1.) You said to cut the green wire. I assume green is ground. I would think a ground and GFI would be good ideas around water.
2.) Did you sheild the bulb with plexi or glass to cut down on the dose of UV to the tank?
Great work
Thanks
 
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