Building new tank!

jedininja

Member
Hi,
I'm working on a huge project. I'v been reefing for 2 years now. Since I'm doing some remodeling, I figure I might as well add a huge tank while I am ripping the house apart. I've built a tank that is 72"x24"24" into one of the walls of my house. This tank's front is going to be level with the wall.
First of all I was wondering if anyone knew a formula to figure out how many gallons of water that is.
Second of all, I am trying to figure out what to do with the lighting. I am going metal halide, but if I get 10k bulbs, would I have to get any atanic VHO or PC bulbs to add more blue? By the way, it is going to be a reef tank. And how high should the bulbs be away from the water. I am thinking that I would use 4 250 watt bulbs. Would that be good? If anyone else has any different lighting ideas, all suggestions are welcome since I have not yet bought anything.
And any ideas that I havent asked would be cool too.
Thanks
 
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pa reef pig

Guest
It actually sounds like you're building my dream tank for me! I've done quite a bit of research on this already.
My opinion would be:
Lighting; 3-400watt 10k and 2-160watt actinic VHOs (metal Halides about 8-10" above the water. VHOs can be closer)
Main pump; Iwaki 20RLXT (2500 gph) w/ 2-3/4" Sea Swirls for return
3-802 powerheads on a wave strip
HUGE sump/refugium
skimmer ? (too many to choose) I would probably use the Berlin Turbo because I already have it;)
 

jedininja

Member
Yeah, I am building my dream reef. Was going to go bigger, but if i do then I wouldn't have much of a living room left.
I was gonna go with a Berlin turbo also. Do you think I really need 400 watt bulbs? I dont want it to be too strong. I actually love mushrooms and other low light corals so I dont want too much light at the bottom. You think 250 watt bulbs are too weak?
Last thing is, what are wave strips?
 

leboeuf

Member
I am in the same boat. I have a 72x28x24 reef ready that I am installing in a double sided wall. I am getting advice everywhere concerning which skimmer/sump/pwrhds......it difficult to keep up with. Keep posting your progress...very interested to hear your results.........
I think a wave strip pertains to a power strip that works off a sequence turning on and off. It is supposed to replicate the sea's ever changing currents. Its pricy though, maybe add later.
Any interest in the ecosystem method before purchasing skimmers and sumps?
 

jarre

Member
Those are the same measurements as my 180.
The 250's will do fine. With 4 of them you should be able to handle about anything you want (SPS included). I would still add the VHO and have them come on before the MH and go off after the MH so you don't shock the corals with instant noon lighting.
 

jedininja

Member
LeBoeuf,
Do you mean ecosystem as in a self sustaining system, or do you mean the ecosystem filtration?
My plan with this tank was to go real slow. I was going to setup the equipment, water, live rock, live sand, and macro algae first. I'm going to let it cycle using the raw shrimp method.
After the tank cycles, I'm not gonna add fish for a while. I'm gonna leave the tank alone and let things like pods breed and macro algae grow first. I'm then gonna add an inverts package after about 2 months after the tank finishes it cycle. Then I'll slowly start to add corals a month after that. Then about 2 more months after that will I add my first fish.
So It'll be 5 months before I even add my single first fish. I learned the hard way 2 years ago that rushing doesnt do any good.
I am hoping in taking it slow, this tank will be as close to a natural ecosystem as possible. Hopefully no need to feed the fish, and hardly ever needing to change the water. I think I'm gonna keep the skimmer in there for a while though. It cant hurt.
 
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pa reef pig

Guest
You could also consider a mix of Halides for the most diverse lighting options.
example:
--[___________160 watt actinic__________]--
--(175 watt]-- --(250 watt]-- --(400 watt]--
--[___________160 watt actinic__________]--
This way you could keep lower light corals and shrooms on the left and keep higher light corals and clams on the right. If you want to keep clams in the future, they will love the 400 watts. Its up to you. 1 MH bulb should be sufficient for lighting 2' of tank length. 3 bulbs is really all that should be necessary, even if you go with all 250's. Any more is a bit of a waste. jmo
The wave strip goes for about $50-60. Worth the money in snails. Before I had mine I was constantly pulling dead snails and shells out of my powerheads intakes. They are drawn to them for some reason. And if the powerheads dont turn on and off, the sails just stay stuck in the powerhead. Very glad I bought it.
 

jedininja

Member
Thats a cool idea with using different powered bulbs. I think I'll do that. Should I use one of those retrofit setups? I am thinking it would be better to go with 3 seperate hanging bulbs with those circular reflecotrs. Not sure what they are called though. Anybody know a good place to get them?
The wave strips sound great too. $60 isnt really that much money compared to the amount that I will be spending on everything else.
Thanks alot. Good info Reef Pig!
 

leboeuf

Member
I think I mean an ecosystem filtration. I have been investigating it for a couple of days and it sounds trouble free....too new to really voice my opinion.
One issue regarding the lights that everyone warned me about, heat! I am installing the same setup in a wall between two rooms, completely enclosed. I ran a dedicated line to the space through the atic and wired in a bathroom exhaust fan. It clears 50 cft per minute. The fan cost $15 from Home depot and cost of wiring and a circuit breaker.
 

jedininja

Member
No, I'm not going with a ecosystem filtration system. I have sucessfully kept reef tanks with only a DSB, LR, and a good skimmer. I have never had any problems. I usually do about a 10% water change once every other month and my nitrates are always under 5ppm. So I figure with an even bigger tank, the water quality will be even easier to keep good. I may be wrong and there may be better ways of doing it, but I think I'll keep with what I know. At least for the filtration anyways. But who knows, I may change my mind and go for one of the newer methods that everyone else is. Only time will tell.
 

jrb384

Member
hey jedi,
my tank is 125g. it is 50'' x 24''x24''
you are going to love yours! the first thing you'll notice is 24x24x gives you so much room for a rock pile. and with 72' length, you'll still get that long look also. I use (4) 4' VHO's 2 blue, 2 white, URI and (1) 400 wt MH mounted in the center. i have 4 powerheads, (2) 900 and (2) 1200 maxi jet, iwaki 40 RLXT external pump, euro reef skimmer (i love it!)
i'm no expert, but i dont see why (4) 6ft VHO's wouldnt work, with (2) 400 wt MH. mount them equally spaced in the center, then put (2) VHO's on each side.

[hr]
VHO #1

[hr]
VHO #2
00000000000 MH#1 00000000000 MH#2

[hr]
VHO #3

[hr]
VHO #4
(this sketch may not be centered in the post, but the MH should be equally centered from the ends)
the only problem I may see is HEAT! be sure to plan for that.
i'd say anywhere from 8-12 inches from the water surface, but with that much i'd go with 12.
OR
a LFS here has a MH that hangs from a rail. and it goes back and forth on the rail slowly. that way you could save $ only buying one, and it would cover your entire tank. and the HEAT would be cut down also. I'm sure its not their construction, so you could find it somewhere. if your interested let me know and i'll go ask them where they got it. with all that heat though, save about $1K for your chiller...
the only thing i wish i had different.
1, a much larger sump. because you ALWAYS want to add on. you mentioned you dont want an ecological filtration, but some day you will want a refugium of sorts, just to tinker. I went for conveince and opted for a 20 gallon resivoir with float switch, (which takes up 1/2 my cabinet space) whenever my water level gets low in the sump, the switch kicks and tops off my tank = less work reqired by me. i am considering axing that resivoir to put in a refugim.
anyways, thats just my 2 cents. but definately go with 24''x24''
you will love it!
jb
 

jedininja

Member
Do you know who makes that sliding MH rail? That sounds pretty cool.
Plus, how much does your LFS sell it for?
Also, how much heat is generated? I dont really want to invest in a chilling system.
 

jrb384

Member
im not sure who makes it. each LFS has their own theories and equipment ideas. i.e. cycling tanks, drilling, bulkheads, or wears, whatever.
basically it is a small rail attached to the canopy, and the MH is attached, and slowly goes back and forth on the rail. Really cool. Give me your email address and next time I go there i'll ask.
james.
 

jrb384

Member
well, i live in florida, so the summers are unbearable. its nothing for it to be 100 degrees with 100% humidity. so to keep the water from getting out of hand, you need a chiller. right now i've been lucky, my tank stays at 81 degrees day and night and doesnt fluctuate. but that MH is hot, and probally evaporates 5 gallons a week. so i have a 20 gallon resivoir, and when the water evaporates it automatically tops it off. that way i only have to fill the resivoir and not mess with the tank.
 

jedininja

Member
hey jrb,
I tried to email you, but it keeps bouncing back. Did you put a correct address in your post? And thanks, you've given me a few more ideas to think about when i do my lighting.
 

melbournefl

Member
Just a side note, the sliding MH light that was mentioned above was/is designed for hydroponics and greenhouses. No reason it couldn't be used over a tank though if you use the right Mh bulbs. I'm not sure how the mechanics of the thing would stand up to the salt "spray" and the humidity of an enclosed hood. You can find them at aquatic ecosystems and most other companies that cater to the hydroponic trade.
Hope this helps,
Paul
 
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