Calcium and alkalinity!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

roadrunner

roadrunner

Member
Ok i went to the LFS yesterday and i had my water tested for calium and alkalinity...they both came back low...
ca - 300
alk - 1.4
...i know that they need to be hight but what are the correct levels for each and why are my levels so low when i do a weekly water change?
Thanks!
 
drew2005

drew2005

Active Member
Originally Posted by roadrunner
Ok i went to the LFS yesterday and i had my water tested for calium and alkalinity...they both came back low...
ca - 300
alk - 1.4
...i know that they need to be hight but what are the correct levels for each and why are my levels so low when i do a weekly water change?
Thanks!
Ca should be 400-450
Alk should be 8-10 dkh
What type of water are you using for water changes?
 
jonnywater

jonnywater

Member
It is somehow precipitating out of your tank quicker then it should be. Also I am assuming that you took your water in for testing sometime after the 4th day of a water change? I could care less what kind of salt you are using. If you have a smaller tank, your definetely need to dose - even if you have a larger tank, you definetely need to dose. Buy a cheap calcium test, then 48 hours after doing a water change, check your calc and alk. The directions will tell you what you want them to be around. If at 48 hours it is still around 430, do another check after 72 (then so on and so forth). Eventually you will find out why and when your levels are dropping.
Either that or your salt is NOT "formulated" for reef use. Meaning it does not have higher levels of calcium in it. Calc and Alk also effect PH A LOT. If you can not get them balanced, the PH fluctuates and will mess up one or the other. If you have a larger tank, most people go with individual bottles for Calcium, Iodine, Strontium, Molybedenum and my favorite Magnesium. Magnesium helps PREVENT calcium from precipitating and alkalinity fluctuating. If you have a smaller tank (inside 70), buy a chemical that does all the additives and buffers. Long story short, you need to dose. Some people will tell you that you dont because they have 150 pounds of LR in their tank which releases more calcium carbonate hense keeping their calc levels up.
 
jonnywater

jonnywater

Member
Yes. It's a good product from what I have heard. It doses calcium and other trace elements while buffering your system at the same time (alkalinity). It should even your levels out, just be patient with it. It will probably take a month to figure out the exact dosing that you need.
I use C-Balance myself. Pretty much the same thing.
 
roadrunner

roadrunner

Member
The guy at the LFS told me that since i have a smaller tank, i should only dose like once a month...he made it simple for me...he said that it ask for something like 1 ml per 4 or 5 gals...he told me to use a test tube and fill it to the test line 5ml for each additive and that should cover about 20 gals...or so...
 
jonnywater

jonnywater

Member
I would just follow the instructions on the back (or front - the bottle looks like an encyclopedia, LOL). People can recommend things about your tank chemistry, when it comes to matters of "elements" in your tank though - they vary from tank to tank. You can build a tank EXACTLY like the one you have right next to it, and it may have different calc or alk needs. You can contact the makers of B-Ionic and tell them that you do weekly water changes and the size of your tank and they might be able to tell you what and when to dose. But it should say on the bottle something like "with bi-weekly water changes add" blah blah blah.
Also with the ML. I dont believe that the bottles or the gallons come with measuring devices. Just go look for an eye dropper with the ML markers on it. You can usually find them at the grocery store. Or buy a bottle of childrens tylenol, LOL. Thats what I used. Then find out how many ML go into a capfull. It tends to make the work A LOT easier. Are you not using a protein skimmer or are you only changing your water once a month?
 
jonnywater

jonnywater

Member
GREAT skimmer and GREAT amount to change. Just hang in there with it. If it was me, I would try some B-Ionic. It balances stuff out in smaller tanks.
Also, forgot about this part. The cheapest part is going to be the B-Ionic. If that doesnt work, try using a smaller powerhead on your AquaC. I would assume you are running the MJ1200 or RIO800 which are both HUGE for that size tank. You could be skimming off a LOT of your nutrients.
 
roadrunner

roadrunner

Member
ok! Question...i'm making saltwater today for a change tomorrow night! I also plan on cleaning everything so should i just wait to do my first addative of b-ionic that same night?
 
azocean709

azocean709

Member
Let me tell ya a lil somethin about your LFS.....cause it is the same as my LFS...They don't give a rats pink azz what you do as long as they are making the money. I know...because i work at my LFS on the weekends. The owner of my LFS will sell anything at any time to anyone. long as she gets er money...all is good. Me on the other hand...learning much , i tell people...this fish wont go with that fish, and yellow tang won't work in your tank, yippitty yip. but i make sales...lots of them. but i just cant bring myself to screw someone....Oh and i saw the water testing they did on someones water one time. LOL what a frigging joke...my advice to you and as well to any others that have a SWT. save you r money and invest in good drip tests and do them yourself! them strip test suck...drop tests are good...i recomend seachem or salifert. I use both...never had no problems with them. good tests are kinda pricy, but let me put it to you this way....i get an average of 50 tests out of each kit. that is one whole year of testing <once a week..some of my tests do 150<calcium seachem master kit> others do this and that...the point is that they are worth it. saves you time and money in the long run. JMO. hope this helps.
 
jonnywater

jonnywater

Member
AZ pretty much got them. I myself use hagen/nutrifin. I have never had a problem with them not getting accurate readings. Then I just opted for a pinpoint and still want to get another, hehe. Anyways, the readings from those tests were identical to the more expensive ones. Plus since I am a stickler for detail, I made a trip to at least 10 different stores that day and got the same water tested. Every single one came out the same. Dip strips I like for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and PH. Outside of that the liquid ones seem to give more accurate readings on the "higher" trace elements.
When it comes to dosing tomorrow - I might buy a KH, Calc, Iodine and MG test kits before hand. That should be around 30 bucks but you should get about 15 tests out of each. My water has become so consistent I rarely test anymore. Test it EVERY day after the water change, then when things start to drop, that MIGHT be a good time to add the B-Ionic.
 
hkdonreefs

hkdonreefs

Member
I dose bionic and it works great you are supposed to dose it daily per instructions. Before you dose you need to get your alk up to the correct level. The two part additive is dosed in 2 equal proportions. Use a marine buffer to raise alk. Follow the directions on the product not what someone tells you. You need test kits and need to test daily at first till you figure out the right dosage. Its a good idea to dose before the lights come on because it can cause ph to rise for a short amount of time an ph is at its lowest before the lights come on.
 
jonnywater

jonnywater

Member
I can see how that would make sense. All though I dont believe that there is an additive on the planet that will level out and maintain every single element for you (well maybe one). If you are a guy with 65 corals and 100 pounds of LR in a 55 gallon - or a guy with 2 corals and 25 pounds of LR in a 55 gallon, are the dosing instructions going to do the same thing to each tank? No. That is why I say just check day by day after you do a water change, then dose, then check, then dose - I am in no way trying to tell how or how much to dose your tank. That is something that your tank and accurate tests will tell you.
But the dosing by lights instructions above me is a good idea. I think I have seen one additive that will actually not overdose or underdose your aquarium when it comes to elements. It will actually get rid of excess nutrients in your tank when used properly.
 
weberian

weberian

Member

Originally Posted by roadrunner
...i'm making saltwater today for a change tomorrow night!
After making saltwater, you should let it age for at least a couple of days.
 
azocean709

azocean709

Member
i have to say after the salt water fish seminar i went to and heard it again.....it take 6 hours for your salt to properly mix with fresh water. I myself put a power head in the bucket and let it set for at least 24 hours. the whole "couple day " thing is not true. that comes from a man that has had salt water tanks for 30 yrs. I think i will listen to experience.
 
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