Cannister filters

addicted 1

New Member
I keep reading about how cannister filters can cause nitrate problems. How and why does this occur? Thanx in advance.
 
S

sandy

Guest
Any problem with having the canister filter on IN ADDITION to the LR & dsb? If the beneficial bacteria is in the rock & dsb, then one could clean the canister filter once or twice a month to avoid build up?
Let me know what you think. I've got a Fluval 304, 55 lbs LR & 65lbs LS. (Tank 50 gal long).
 

brooklyn johnny

Active Member
There are two possible things you were reading about. The first is the least likely, and more simple possibility. If canister filters are not maintenenced often and detritus is allowed to build up, this will decay leaching toxins.
What you most likely were reading about does not pertain to canister filters only, but rather to many "artificial" biological filters, of which a canister can be used if filled with any biomedia. The theory is that these filters are extremely efficient in converting ammonia to nitirite to nitrate aerobically. However this is where they stop, leaching the final product nitrate back into the tank where it builds to higher and higher levels. The new school of thought uses live rock as the biological filter. While not as efficient, it is more complete in that the end product nitrate is converted within the live rock to nitrogen gas right along side the aerobic bacteria feeding it the converted wastes. Ammonia and nitrites are converted more slowly, but one would never notice as they never reach testable levels.
This is at least the theory. Canister filters are still a great resource, even with the new school "Berlin method", as they may be used primarily as a mechanical filter removing suspended matter or a chemical filter. Make sure to clean it often though before those wastes break down.
Hope this helps.
 
S

sandy

Guest
So what-do-ya think? Clean out the Fluval once a week? Twice a month? What media to keep in the baskets? What media NOT to have in the baskets? Right now there are three bags of carbon (1 1/2 baskets), 1 basket with some chalky type fluval stones and 1 basket with regular hex (hard) fluval stones).
 

addicted 1

New Member
I run a fluval 303 in my aquarium, along with some addtl filtration. From what I understand (which isn't much)with the fluval cannister you want at all times to keep foam inserts and "bio-max", which is the stones you describe, in the cannister. The foam is to always be at the top of the filter. Now where you place the bio-max in the remaining two slots is completely up to you. Your next option is to add some carbon or not. Once again, the carbon and the bio-max can be situated in either the bottom or middle chamber. The bio-max is for housing beneficial bacteria moreover than as an initial filtering device so I choose to put the bio-max in the middle chamber and use carbon as my initial(bottom)media then finishing with the foam inserts on top as mentioned before. Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you. I'm the furthest thing from an expert.
 

brooklyn johnny

Active Member
Generally with canister filters, you want to place a looser larger material where the water first comes into the filter. after this type of media you can place more compact material like carbon or filter wool. By keeping this in mind throughout the different stages of the filter, you prolong the life of the media. Putting carbon in the first chamber will cause clogging right at the spout, whereas a looser material will disperse the initial larger particles. Hope this helps.
 
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