Canopy question...How to make front removable w/o hinges

biggredd

Member
So I made my canopy recently but don't have the front on it yet. I used 2x1's and made a cube on the top of the aquarium. I then made sides for it that go higher than the cube so you wouldn't see the lighting stuff on the top, which also eliminates the ability to go with hinges. I purposely wanted a removable front, but easily removable. Any ideas how to make it easily removable without hinges?
I was thinking of getting some stainless steel hooks that I could mount on the back side of the front to hang on the top 2x1 of the cube
but wasn't sure if that would be a good idea. Lots of velcro would work but would be a pain getting it off. Any ideas?
 

biggredd

Member
Check it. Not the best pic (cell) but you can see the 2x1 across the top. I basically have a regular piece of plywood to cover it with trim on the front. Just need a way to remove it easily with out hinges and preferably without velcro. A hook of some sort would be cool but not sure.
 

fly75

Member
Biggredd,
What did you decide to do with the front? I have mine pretty much built and was looking for the same type of idea. I like the look of mine without doors but need access (it is 24" tall). You may be on to something with the "hook" idea.
 

biggredd

Member
due to the way the sides come up there is not a good way for me to put hinges on it. I could always change it but I wanted it easily removable for just in general. Probably what I will do is bolt on a piece of wood or stainless steel metal with a hole in it on the back top of the front. Then I'll put pegs of some sort on the top of the canopy. That way I can just set it on there and the pegs will hold it in place. Once I get around to it I'll post pics of how I do it. It won't be the best design I've ever come up with but it will work fine.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
If you check out WoodCraft website they make something I think it's called a "pinch" catch. Basically it's like a latch that has 2 bearings on the one piece and you cann adjust the tension on the bearings and then theirs a piece that would attach to your removeable panel that would actually slide between the bearings to hold the panel in place........HTH
 

murph145

Active Member
heres my canpoy uses the slip lock sliding plate lol i dont know what they are called but they got them at any depot or lowes
i made my canopy outta 2x1's and a front removeable panel
there is a pic of one of the sides the other is the same but upside down so they slide and lock together holds my canopies front panel on for my 180 with no probs one at each end
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
If you check out WoodCraft website they make something I think it's called a "pinch" catch. Basically it's like a latch that has 2 bearings on the one piece and you cann adjust the tension on the bearings and then theirs a piece that would attach to your removeable panel that would actually slide between the bearings to hold the panel in place........HTH
Yep... this is how I'd do it also. Rockler is also a good place to get them.
 

pyro

Active Member
Wow; between that coral fragging video with all the SPS and this thread... I wanna go buy some 2x1s and make myself a canopy with MH in instead of my PC's in my low canopy
 

djcanis

Member
Possibly a stupid question by a newbie, but does the box for the MH,s have to be that tall. How far do they need to be off the top of the warter as compared to like PC's or cheap flourecents?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Most manufacturers recommend at least 12", but that's up to you if you go closer.....You might not get the same light spread or coverage and then by placing them closer you might encounter more heat as well
 

scsinet

Active Member
The other thing you have to consider is that if you don't shield your bulbs with an extra piece of glass, water splashing on a hot bulb may cause the bulb to explode. You want the bulbs high enough to keep them from getting splashed. I keep mine 10" from the water.
 

clsimons29

Member
Pinch catch will work but one problem w/them is they get dirt/grim in the bearings and can tend to stick making you need to pull hard to release.
1) Get 4 window sash locks & catchs, attach to side, sash lock is exposed, have to make sure you have ahold of piece once you release, can stick w/expasion/contraction of wood
see 1st pic.
2) Use recssed euro hinges, Cut your front in 1/2 & cut 3/4x 3"x height fillers. Bore hole appox 1/2" deep w/foster bit in filler, spec to hinge, attache baseplate & filler to inside of cabinet side. attach hing arm to panel and attach to baseplate. you will need @ least two on each end possibly three depending on length of panel. You can also use a version that does not use a baseplate but attaches directly to trim. You will need to add a 3/4"x 1 1/2" trim to the cabinet ends to use this but will save you from using filler, please refer to a guide when installing as this is very BASIC instruction. Will give you nice look if you can install, see second pic
3) Drill 1/2" -1/4" holes in ends of sides, use epoxy to glue a 1/2"-1/4" threaded bolt. Drill 1/32" oversized hole in cabinet face piece to match bolts installed in sides,have appox 1/4" sticking through cabinet face when placed, cap with a covered nut - commonly used in lighting fixtures. can also be decorative, no pic
Hope this gives you some ideas, good luck!


 

acrylic51

Active Member
Where's the dirty and grime coming from???? That should be part of maintenance is checking out all the components of your system.....
 

clsimons29

Member
From the dirt & grime ghost of course

Did not mean it as to say they are not an option or they won't work if maintained but it has been my experience in seeing that type of latch in action that they tend to stick over time IMHO, and many require you to push in to release the latch, which can also stick. Have them in the cabinets I'm tearing out in a house I bought and I can not stand them.
Just sharing my humble opinion.
 
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