Carbon question
- Thread starter volitan1
- Start date
bulldog123
Member
I do. Run rowa in the reactor and a bag of seachem de*nitrate and 1 week every month run carbon. They all do something different.
volitan1
Member
Originally Posted by Bulldog123
http:///forum/post/3069098
I do. Run rowa in the reactor and a bag of seachem de*nitrate and 1 week every month run carbon. They all do something different.
what is rowa?
what is seachem de*nitrate?
http:///forum/post/3069098
I do. Run rowa in the reactor and a bag of seachem de*nitrate and 1 week every month run carbon. They all do something different.
what is rowa?
what is seachem de*nitrate?
trouble93
Member
Originally Posted by volitan1
http:///forum/post/3069117
what is rowa?
what is seachem de*nitrate?
They are both filter medias. They work best in a phosban reactor with slow flow. google phosban reactor to get a better understanding of how they work.
http:///forum/post/3069117
what is rowa?
what is seachem de*nitrate?
They are both filter medias. They work best in a phosban reactor with slow flow. google phosban reactor to get a better understanding of how they work.
trouble93
Member
Originally Posted by volitan1
http:///forum/post/3069085
can you run phosban & carbon at the same time?
I do de*nitrate in the reactor and a 4x12in. sock of carbon in my sump. I run carbon 247 I change it every two weeks...And the de*nitrate you never have to change. rowa is just another filter media, and de*nitrate removes nitrates by building aerobic & anaerobic bacteria.
http:///forum/post/3069085
can you run phosban & carbon at the same time?
I do de*nitrate in the reactor and a 4x12in. sock of carbon in my sump. I run carbon 247 I change it every two weeks...And the de*nitrate you never have to change. rowa is just another filter media, and de*nitrate removes nitrates by building aerobic & anaerobic bacteria.
deejeff442
Active Member
those are a couple of awesome looking bull dogs.
i run both in my tanks 24/7
i run both in my tanks 24/7
bulldog123
Member
I know I seen somewhere in a reef tank you shouldnt run carbon all the time. I just dont remember why. Someone will come in and remind us. De*nitrate should be changed if and when you nitrate elevate again(per directions). Rowa is a very good phosphate remover. I would run the rowa in a reactor if I had the room in my sump to limit the flow.All these products are sold on line or at your lfs.
jdl
Member
Originally Posted by Bulldog123
http:///forum/post/3069245
I know I seen somewhere in a reef tank you shouldnt run carbon all the time. I just dont remember why. Someone will come in and remind us. De*nitrate should be changed if and when you nitrate elevate again(per directions). Rowa is a very good phosphate remover. I would run the rowa in a reactor if I had the room in my sump to limit the flow.All these products are sold on line or at your lfs.
check out the dual and single reactors at bulk reef supply. And many people run carbon 24/7. It isnt proven to be bad, so those that will remind you are just giving false information based on theory. As always, do what you feel is best, not someone else.
http:///forum/post/3069245
I know I seen somewhere in a reef tank you shouldnt run carbon all the time. I just dont remember why. Someone will come in and remind us. De*nitrate should be changed if and when you nitrate elevate again(per directions). Rowa is a very good phosphate remover. I would run the rowa in a reactor if I had the room in my sump to limit the flow.All these products are sold on line or at your lfs.
check out the dual and single reactors at bulk reef supply. And many people run carbon 24/7. It isnt proven to be bad, so those that will remind you are just giving false information based on theory. As always, do what you feel is best, not someone else.
bulldog123
Member
Originally Posted by JDL
http:///forum/post/3069249
check out the dual and single reactors at bulk reef supply. And many people run carbon 24/7. It isnt proven to be bad, so those that will remind you are just giving false information based on theory. As always, do what you feel is best, not someone else.
I recommend viewing this. Its has a video that tells you how and what and why, great info! A must when my 120 gets up no two little fishes reactor for the big tank! Thanks for the info JDL.
http:///forum/post/3069249
check out the dual and single reactors at bulk reef supply. And many people run carbon 24/7. It isnt proven to be bad, so those that will remind you are just giving false information based on theory. As always, do what you feel is best, not someone else.
I recommend viewing this. Its has a video that tells you how and what and why, great info! A must when my 120 gets up no two little fishes reactor for the big tank! Thanks for the info JDL.
trouble93
Member
Originally Posted by Bulldog123
http:///forum/post/3069245
I know I seen somewhere in a reef tank you shouldnt run carbon all the time. I just dont remember why. Someone will come in and remind us. De*nitrate should be changed if and when you nitrate elevate again(per directions). Rowa is a very good phosphate remover. I would run the rowa in a reactor if I had the room in my sump to limit the flow.All these products are sold on line or at your lfs.
This is a good example of bad info read the directions again my friend. And as far as running carbon in a reef tank more so with leathers carbon will remove anything toxic your coral may release.
http:///forum/post/3069245
I know I seen somewhere in a reef tank you shouldnt run carbon all the time. I just dont remember why. Someone will come in and remind us. De*nitrate should be changed if and when you nitrate elevate again(per directions). Rowa is a very good phosphate remover. I would run the rowa in a reactor if I had the room in my sump to limit the flow.All these products are sold on line or at your lfs.
This is a good example of bad info read the directions again my friend. And as far as running carbon in a reef tank more so with leathers carbon will remove anything toxic your coral may release.
bulldog123
Member
"DIRECTIONS: For best results, de*nitrate should be placed to assure the flow of water through it, such as in a canister filter, chemical filtration module, or box filter. Flow rate should not exceed 200L(50 gallons*) per hour. If higher flow rates are unaviodable, use Matrix or Pond Matrix. It is best to rinse off dust before use. Once de*nitrate has been in use for several days, nitrate concentrations should start to fall and level off gradually at a concentration of about 4-5 mg/L as nitrate. AS LONG AS NITRATE CONCENTRATIONS REMAIN UNDER CONTROL, THE PRODUCT IS NOT EXHAUSTED. Each 1L of de*nitrate treats about 200-400 L (50-100 gallons), depending on initial nitrate concentration and the current biological load. Enough should be used to remove ritrate at a rate at least as fast as the rate of formation. If very high nitrates are initially present, they should be brought down to less than 20 mg/L with water changes.
Please explain the caps. This stuff isnt cheap and if I can stop replacing it all the better
1 exhausted
completely emptied of resources or properties; "impossible to grow tobacco on the exhausted soil"; "the exhausted food sources"; "exhausted oil wells"
2 exhausted
drained physically; "the day's events left her completely exhausted--her strength drained"
3 exhausted, dog-tired, fagged, fatigued, played out, spent, washed-out, worn-out(a), worn out(p)
drained of energy or effectiveness; extremely tired; completely exhausted; "the day's shopping left her exhausted"; "he went to bed dog-tired"; "was fagged and sweaty"; "the trembling of his played out limbs"; "felt completely washed-out"; "only worn-out
Please explain the caps. This stuff isnt cheap and if I can stop replacing it all the better
1 exhausted
completely emptied of resources or properties; "impossible to grow tobacco on the exhausted soil"; "the exhausted food sources"; "exhausted oil wells"
2 exhausted
drained physically; "the day's events left her completely exhausted--her strength drained"
3 exhausted, dog-tired, fagged, fatigued, played out, spent, washed-out, worn-out(a), worn out(p)
drained of energy or effectiveness; extremely tired; completely exhausted; "the day's shopping left her exhausted"; "he went to bed dog-tired"; "was fagged and sweaty"; "the trembling of his played out limbs"; "felt completely washed-out"; "only worn-out
stanlalee
Active Member
Originally Posted by volitan1
http:///forum/post/3069085
can you run phosban & carbon at the same time?
I run GFO and carbon both in a reactor which is common practice. they dont do the same thing or anything that contraindicates using both. Carbon's primary purpose is removing organics and stuff binded to organics (and whatever else). GFO binds phosphates, silicates directly (and whatever else). Running both will give you a broader range of water polishing. Used in a single reactor can pose a problem due to the different flow rate requirement and exhaustion rate (which would be dependent on a bunch of variables not the least of which are amount of phosphates and organics in and regularly introduced into the water and amount of media used. I have them both in one reactor with GFO at the bottom gently surface tumbling with carbon higher up in the reactor with no tumbling just slight bobbing up and down on the top layer only (I use spiracle shaped sechem matrix carbon).
http:///forum/post/3069085
can you run phosban & carbon at the same time?
I run GFO and carbon both in a reactor which is common practice. they dont do the same thing or anything that contraindicates using both. Carbon's primary purpose is removing organics and stuff binded to organics (and whatever else). GFO binds phosphates, silicates directly (and whatever else). Running both will give you a broader range of water polishing. Used in a single reactor can pose a problem due to the different flow rate requirement and exhaustion rate (which would be dependent on a bunch of variables not the least of which are amount of phosphates and organics in and regularly introduced into the water and amount of media used. I have them both in one reactor with GFO at the bottom gently surface tumbling with carbon higher up in the reactor with no tumbling just slight bobbing up and down on the top layer only (I use spiracle shaped sechem matrix carbon).
trouble93
Member
Originally Posted by Bulldog123
http:///forum/post/3069289
"DIRECTIONS: For best results, de*nitrate should be placed to assure the flow of water through it, such as in a canister filter, chemical filtration module, or box filter. Flow rate should not exceed 200L(50 gallons*) per hour. If higher flow rates are unaviodable, use Matrix or Pond Matrix. It is best to rinse off dust before use. Once de*nitrate has been in use for several days, nitrate concentrations should start to fall and level off gradually at a concentration of about 4-5 mg/L as nitrate. AS LONG AS NITRATE CONCENTRATIONS REMAIN UNDER CONTROL, THE PRODUCT IS NOT EXHAUSTED. Each 1L of de*nitrate treats about 200-400 L (50-100 gallons), depending on initial nitrate concentration and the current biological load. Enough should be used to remove ritrate at a rate at least as fast as the rate of formation. If very high nitrates are initially present, they should be brought down to less than 20 mg/L with water changes.
Please explain the caps. This stuff isnt cheap and if I can stop replacing it all the better
1 exhausted
completely emptied of resources or properties; "impossible to grow tobacco on the exhausted soil"; "the exhausted food sources"; "exhausted oil wells"
2 exhausted
drained physically; "the day's events left her completely exhausted--her strength drained"
3 exhausted, dog-tired, fagged, fatigued, played out, spent, washed-out, worn-out(a), worn out(p)
drained of energy or effectiveness; extremely tired; completely exhausted; "the day's shopping left her exhausted"; "he went to bed dog-tired"; "was fagged and sweaty"; "the trembling of his played out limbs"; "felt completely washed-out"; "only worn-out
You left out the other side of the lable glad to see you took the time to go through the dictionary and get the example of exhausted, but like you I can read the label as well. The directions that you put directly on the other side of the logo says .....de*nitrate removes nitrates, nitrites, amonia and organics from both fresh and marine water. the hight porosity of of de*nitrate supports the proliferation of both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria that further remove these toxic aquarium biproducts. Even when exhausted (per your dictionary example) as an organic adsorbent, de*nitrate continues to be an excellent support for the biological filter and does not have to be removed. I'm not trying to be a wise ass, but we have to be careful of the information we give. Some time the OP is worst off after then before they asked the question.
http:///forum/post/3069289
"DIRECTIONS: For best results, de*nitrate should be placed to assure the flow of water through it, such as in a canister filter, chemical filtration module, or box filter. Flow rate should not exceed 200L(50 gallons*) per hour. If higher flow rates are unaviodable, use Matrix or Pond Matrix. It is best to rinse off dust before use. Once de*nitrate has been in use for several days, nitrate concentrations should start to fall and level off gradually at a concentration of about 4-5 mg/L as nitrate. AS LONG AS NITRATE CONCENTRATIONS REMAIN UNDER CONTROL, THE PRODUCT IS NOT EXHAUSTED. Each 1L of de*nitrate treats about 200-400 L (50-100 gallons), depending on initial nitrate concentration and the current biological load. Enough should be used to remove ritrate at a rate at least as fast as the rate of formation. If very high nitrates are initially present, they should be brought down to less than 20 mg/L with water changes.
Please explain the caps. This stuff isnt cheap and if I can stop replacing it all the better
1 exhausted
completely emptied of resources or properties; "impossible to grow tobacco on the exhausted soil"; "the exhausted food sources"; "exhausted oil wells"
2 exhausted
drained physically; "the day's events left her completely exhausted--her strength drained"
3 exhausted, dog-tired, fagged, fatigued, played out, spent, washed-out, worn-out(a), worn out(p)
drained of energy or effectiveness; extremely tired; completely exhausted; "the day's shopping left her exhausted"; "he went to bed dog-tired"; "was fagged and sweaty"; "the trembling of his played out limbs"; "felt completely washed-out"; "only worn-out
You left out the other side of the lable glad to see you took the time to go through the dictionary and get the example of exhausted, but like you I can read the label as well. The directions that you put directly on the other side of the logo says .....de*nitrate removes nitrates, nitrites, amonia and organics from both fresh and marine water. the hight porosity of of de*nitrate supports the proliferation of both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria that further remove these toxic aquarium biproducts. Even when exhausted (per your dictionary example) as an organic adsorbent, de*nitrate continues to be an excellent support for the biological filter and does not have to be removed. I'm not trying to be a wise ass, but we have to be careful of the information we give. Some time the OP is worst off after then before they asked the question.
bulldog123
Member
There has to be a difference an effectiveness. It does say "even when exhaused" so there is a lose of something correct or not. I would agree that it still provides surfaces for the bacteria and remains beneficial. But if there is not something else more beneficial why not just use bio-balls or lr. If there is no extra benefit I would rather spend my money on something else as well.
Dont worry about me being offended my skin is rather thick. Im here just like everyone else trying to learn. I highly doubt you have given all "correct or complete info" yourself.
Dont worry about me being offended my skin is rather thick. Im here just like everyone else trying to learn. I highly doubt you have given all "correct or complete info" yourself.
trouble93
Member
Originally Posted by Bulldog123
http:///forum/post/3069503
There has to be a difference an effectiveness. It does say "even when exhaused" so there is a lose of something correct or not. I would agree that it still provides surfaces for the bacteria and remains beneficial. But if there is not something else more beneficial why not just use bio-balls or lr. If there is no extra benefit I would rather spend my money on something else as well.
Dont worry about me being offended my skin is rather thick. Im here just like everyone else trying to learn. I highly doubt you have given all "correct or complete info" yourself.
Well I try not to comment on subjects unless I know what I'm talking about..."even when exhaused" it's still supports the bacteria that helps keep the nitrates down. And to the OP did not mean to high jack your thread, but there is a answer in all this madness what may work in my tank may not work in the next hobbyists tank.
http:///forum/post/3069503
There has to be a difference an effectiveness. It does say "even when exhaused" so there is a lose of something correct or not. I would agree that it still provides surfaces for the bacteria and remains beneficial. But if there is not something else more beneficial why not just use bio-balls or lr. If there is no extra benefit I would rather spend my money on something else as well.
Dont worry about me being offended my skin is rather thick. Im here just like everyone else trying to learn. I highly doubt you have given all "correct or complete info" yourself.
Well I try not to comment on subjects unless I know what I'm talking about..."even when exhaused" it's still supports the bacteria that helps keep the nitrates down. And to the OP did not mean to high jack your thread, but there is a answer in all this madness what may work in my tank may not work in the next hobbyists tank.
bulldog123
Member
I hope he would not care about this discussion as Im sure he is learning as well. The "exhausted" is for organic adsorbent as I understand. So it does not hurt to leave in and use as a bacteria filter just doesnt work as well. Is this how you see it or am I still missing something else?
Now for the carbon running 24/7. After a little research I found the claim not to alway run it is because it removes necessary trace elements needed by reef animals, particulary corals. Im not saying one way or the other just want both views so everyone can make their own decission. I believe this is how we all learn. Im not trying to aggravate you but if I could do something better/different I want to change. The are pro/cons in almost everything in this hobby and everyone must make the best decision for them/tank on the information they have.
Now for the carbon running 24/7. After a little research I found the claim not to alway run it is because it removes necessary trace elements needed by reef animals, particulary corals. Im not saying one way or the other just want both views so everyone can make their own decission. I believe this is how we all learn. Im not trying to aggravate you but if I could do something better/different I want to change. The are pro/cons in almost everything in this hobby and everyone must make the best decision for them/tank on the information they have.
volitan1
Member
Originally Posted by trouble93
http:///forum/post/3069194
I do de*nitrate in the reactor and a 4x12in. sock of carbon in my sump. I run carbon 247 I change it every two weeks...And the de*nitrate you never have to change. rowa is just another filter media, and de*nitrate removes nitrates by building aerobic & anaerobic bacteria.
the directions on de*nitrate say 'Flow rate should not exceed 200 L (50 gallons*) per hour. If higher flow rates are unavoidable, use Matrixª or Pond Matrixª.
My flow rate is 700 gph. Does this mean i cannot use it? how do you uses it?
http:///forum/post/3069194
I do de*nitrate in the reactor and a 4x12in. sock of carbon in my sump. I run carbon 247 I change it every two weeks...And the de*nitrate you never have to change. rowa is just another filter media, and de*nitrate removes nitrates by building aerobic & anaerobic bacteria.
the directions on de*nitrate say 'Flow rate should not exceed 200 L (50 gallons*) per hour. If higher flow rates are unavoidable, use Matrixª or Pond Matrixª.
My flow rate is 700 gph. Does this mean i cannot use it? how do you uses it?
trouble93
Member
Originally Posted by volitan1
http:///forum/post/3069666
the directions on de*nitrate say 'Flow rate should not exceed 200 L (50 gallons*) per hour. If higher flow rates are unavoidable, use Matrixª or Pond Matrixª.
My flow rate is 700 gph. Does this mean i cannot use it? how do you uses it?
I use it in a phosban reactor with a mini-jet 404. It has a ball valve to slow the water flow. And also on the mini-jet you can slow the water flow as well. The mini-jet is in the main part of my sump pumps water through the reactor and a tube take it into the return section and that water is pumped into the tank. The only draw back is as the water come out of the reactor it mixes with water that has bypassed the 404. So it takes awhile for all the water to go through, up to 4 to 6 weeks. I have a large fish load and a lot of coral in this tank. This is why I use the de*nitrate, but if you don't have a lot of fish in your tank you should be able to control your trates with regular water changes.
http:///forum/post/3069666
the directions on de*nitrate say 'Flow rate should not exceed 200 L (50 gallons*) per hour. If higher flow rates are unavoidable, use Matrixª or Pond Matrixª.
My flow rate is 700 gph. Does this mean i cannot use it? how do you uses it?
I use it in a phosban reactor with a mini-jet 404. It has a ball valve to slow the water flow. And also on the mini-jet you can slow the water flow as well. The mini-jet is in the main part of my sump pumps water through the reactor and a tube take it into the return section and that water is pumped into the tank. The only draw back is as the water come out of the reactor it mixes with water that has bypassed the 404. So it takes awhile for all the water to go through, up to 4 to 6 weeks. I have a large fish load and a lot of coral in this tank. This is why I use the de*nitrate, but if you don't have a lot of fish in your tank you should be able to control your trates with regular water changes.