Catch 22 Question

fla. keys

Member
Ok,
I want to achieve good coraline growth on my live rock(purple) so I need to run a great deal of light? However the more light I run and the longer I run it daily the more of the long green algea I get growing on everything like powerheads and even the sand bottom.
If all I have in the tank right now is live rock and live sand...no fish right now and no other cool stuff(just lots of rock) how long and how much light do I need to get the good purple growth??????
My tank is 125 gal. I only have 1 pc that runs 2x65, 1 pc that is a total of 95 watts, a twin 48 inch tube set with 2 40 watt 50/50 bulbs and a single tube 36 inch that I think is only 30 watts.
Is this even enough wattage to get good coraline growth. I also have 5 powerheads in there that I believe are all 270 gph.
Please respond with your thoughts.
 

bang guy

Moderator
I completely agree with Anthem, I just want to add that coralline requires a good ALK level as well.
 
Also, when my tank became mature, I got a sally light foot crab, and a Hermit crab. No more hairy alge on rocks or anything. :D
 

jonthefb

Active Member
id have to agree with all the above posts. get a good clean up crew to take care of the nuisance algea right now, and watch your Calcium, and alkalinity levels, because coralline will eat this stuff up, but its a good idea to start now whie you dont have any corals to suck all the calcium out right now. Coralline does take awhile to develop. My little 35 gallon has been set up for about 7 months now, and the growth has just taken off in the past month here. i have two 65 watt power compacts on my tank and with the addition of calcium and kalkwasser, i have a good steady growth of coralline!
good luck
jon
 
A

aqua_man

Guest
Excactly what does the Alk level do? Is this not the same as PH? I am trying to get more Coraline to grow as well.
 

krusk

Member
Alkalinity is a measure of the acid buffering capacity of a solution. That is, it is a measure of the ability of a solution to resist a decrease in pH when acids are added. Since acids are normally produced by the biological action of the reef tank contents, alkalinity in a closed system has a natural tendency to go down. Additives are used to keep it at a proper level.
Correct alkalinity levels allow hard corals and coralline algae to properly secrete new skeletal material. When alkalinity levels drop, the carbonate ions needed are not available and the process slows or stops.
Alkalinity is measured in one of three units: milliequivalents per liter (meq/l), German degrees of hardness (dKH) or parts per million of calcium carbonate (ppm CaCO3). Any of the units may be employed but dKH is most commonly used in the aquarium hobby and meq/l is used exclusively in modern scientific literature. The conversion for the three units is:
1 meq/l = 2.8 dKH = 50 ppm CaCO3
[As an aside, there is an imperial unit of alkalinity and hardness which is 'grains per gallon'. The water softening industry uses this unit. 1 gpg = 17 ppm CaCO3.]
A word of caution about the ppm CaCO3 unit is in order. The 'ppm CaCO3' unit reports the concentration of CaCO3 in pure water that would provide the same buffering capacity as the water sample in question. This does not mean the sample contains that much CaCO3. In fact, it tells you nothing about how much of the buffering is due to carbonates, it is only a measure of equivalency.
Alkalinity is often confused with carbonate hardness since both participate in acid neutralization and test kits may express both in either of the three units. However, carbonate hardness is technically a measure of only the carbonate species in equilibria whereas alkalinity measures the total acid binding ions present which may include sulfates, hydroxides, borates and others in addition to carbonates. In natural seawater, though, carbonates make up 96% of the alkalinity so equating alkalinity with carbonate hardness isn't too far off. As long as you're using a salt mix which yields an ion mix close to that of Natural Sea Water (NSW) you can also make this assumption. Some salt manufacturers alter the alkalinity component of their mix to increase the percentage of borates to (bi)carbonates in order to maintain a stabler pH in the aquarium. We do not feel this is good, and highly recommend you watch the trade magizines for reports on borates in salt mixes. (OK, OK, here's a preview... Instant Ocean does NOT have abnormal borates based on initial testing.)
Recommended values for alkalinity vary depending on who's work you read. Natural surface seawater has an alkalinity of about 2.4 meq/l. Following are levels recommended by various authors.
From John Tullock (1991) "The Reef Tank Owner's Manual":
page 46 - Alkalinity range should be 3.5 to 5.0 meq/l.
page 94 - Alkalinity reading of 2.5-5.0 meq/l is proper.
page 188- Alkalinity should be about 3.5 meq/l. (In reference
to maintaining Tridacna clams.)
Albert Thiel (1989), in "Small Reef Aquarium Basics" recommends 5.35-6.45 meq/l. This is an artificially high level which may initiate a "snowstorm" of CaCO3 precipitate. Most reef aquarists do not believe in such extreme and unnatural levels and recommend 3.0-3.5 meq/l as a good range instead.
The chemistry of how alkalinity, pH, CO2, carbonate, bicarbonate, and other ions interrelate is fairly complex and is beyond the scope and detail of this document.
Some recommended test kits for alkalinity are the SeaTest kit, the inexpensive Tetra kit and the LaMotte kit. The SeaTest kit measures in division of 0.5 meq/l or, if the amount of solution is doubled, 0.25 meq/l. The SeaTest kit uses titration in which the acid and indicator are included in the same reagent. The LaMotte kit is a little more expensive, though still fairly cheap, and is somewhat more accurate. The unit of titration is 4 ppm CaCO3 although in practice, one drop from the titration tube may be up to twice this amount making the resolution about 0.15 meq/l. The Lamotte kit has a separate indicator tablet and acid reagent which is a nice feature. <hr></blockquote>
 
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