Cheap Hydrometer/Topoffs

[pyro]

Three Questions:
1.) I bought an Instant Oceans plastic hydrometer that you fill up, but I'm not sure if it is one of the cheap plastic floating ones everybody describes as inaccurate. It has a pretty solid feel to me and seems to work great as long as I make sure there is no salt buildup around the needle "hinge" by washing it out with freshwater frequently and set it on a level surface to read (maybe tap it a couple times to make sure the needle is staying constant)
2.) My tank loses about a quarter to half a gallon of water a day. The salinity is about where I want it, and was wondering what the salinity of the topoffs should be. I know salt doesn't evaporate with the water, but wanted to make sure pure freshwater isn't going to throw my salinity off.
3.) Base rock won't cause a cycle of any sort, correct?
Sorry for the length of the post, but Thankyou for any advice

 

[ka0z4allu]

Those swing arm hydrometers that you are refering to are not fully accurate but can be consistant as I have used them with my tank for over a year now. You always want to top off your tank evaporation with freshwater cause as you said salt does not evaporate and as the water does your salinity will increase. Adding freshwater will bring it back to where it was before evaporation. If you have inverts or corals it might be wise to make or invest in a drip topoff system soi that ther water is replaced as it is evaporated keeping your salinity at a constant level, very important with corals/inverts. An IV bag from a medical supply shop will do the trick and prevent any sudden salinity changes. HTH.

 

[ka0z4allu]

And no base rock will not cause any sort of a cycle as there is nothing there to die off and cause ammonia spike.

 

[arkey.d]

I have an Instant Ocean hydrometer that I use. A refracometer is much better in accuracy but does cost $50.
I have alot of evaporation also, I use distilled water to top off my tanks. Don't use Tap Water.
Base Rock isn't Live so it should not cause a cycle. The only way it would if it was being used with live rock from another tank.

 

[viet-tin]

Adding base rock can mess with your ph.

 

[ka0z4allu]

The nice thing about a refractometer besides the accuracy is that you can do your salinity test with a few drops of water. Also if your base rock comes out of a tank with LR then it is not base rock. It too is LR so it would cause a cycle.

 

[pyro]

Awesome, I'll probably go pick up 20# of base rock this weekend to add beneith the 30# LR in my 30g. My temperature varies, I have the heater set so it keeps it at 76, but the lights crank it to about 77-78. Should I just set my heater at 78 to be consistent?
My pH is at 8.2 I beleive (Not to great with those darn color charts)
salinity is temporarily slightly high - 1.026
water movement wise I think I might need to throw another powerhead in. I have a heavily restricted Rio 2100 comming from the fuge as I cannot figure out how to crank my overflow without making a waterfall noise so loud I can't hear my Emperor 400. Other than the return and the rio, I have no powerheads. If I don't, I don't beleive I have my return pointed properly because certain pieces of my LR get a dust coverign on them if the fuge gets stirred up.
When do I take the 2 raw shrimp out of my tank? Right after the ammonia spike? Or should I leave them in until after the Nitrite spike?
I'm going to start buying the gallon jugs from Giant Eagle or wherever of water, it might be pricey after a while, but I don't have any more money to spend upfront sadly for a RO/DI filter. That way I could easily add it too - the bucket is too hard to dump in
Thanks!

 

[arkey.d]

I buy my distilled water from Walmart or the grocery store 52 -82 cents a gal.
I would set your heater to 78 that way it won't fluctuate.
I left my shrimps in till they were all gone only took a couple of days with the critters from the liverock.
I like to keep my SG to 1.022 right in the middle of the scale, just in case the hydrometer is off some.
I have two poweerheads in my 29gal and 2 in my 55gal.
Hope that helps ya out..

 

[new2u]

id try to keep your salenity at about 0124 knowing how inaccurate those hydrometers are mine read 0125 and when i got my refractometer it was 0128! watch out and if you look in the right places you can get one for 35 bucks like i did :joy:

 

[arkey.d]

That's why I try to keep it in the middle that way if it's off, it should still be in the safe zone. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[pyro]

I don't think any live rock "critters" survived to remove the shrimp - I'll let it decompose anyways.
Thanks - I'll add more later

 

[betacrash]

I found a place that had a really cheap solution for a topoff system. californiareefs dot something

 

[nacl-man]

Originally posted by Pyro
I have a heavily restricted Rio 2100 comming from the fuge as I cannot figure out how to crank my overflow without making a waterfall noise so loud I can't hear my Emperor 400.
Do a search for Durso or Stockman Standpipe, it is something you can make yourself that will help with that sucking noise.
As far as PH goes if you are looking for an easy-to-read test try the FasTest from Aquarium Systems (I think)... it is the best one that is available in my area (I have not tried Salifert yet). If you've got the cash a Pinpoint monitor is the way to go as PH is an important indicator that can change even during the day (it gets a little tiresome testing the water 3 times a day during troubleshooting).
RO/DI is a must have, most municipal water systems are not nearly as clean as they claim to be and distilled water gets expensive, the transportation from the store has to get old fast as well.
Cheers and best of luck!
NaCL

 

[sammiefish]

I think if you look around you will find that many poeple, including myself, like to maintain SG at 1.026... so you are right on IMO

 

[pyro]

Ok, finally got time to update everything. SG is still at 1.026 - I'll bring it down a little bit next water change, and keep my eyes open for a low price refractometer (heard they also take pH - whoopie, stupid colors

).
I added about 10-15# LR (two big rocks) to the tank, and while remodeling accidently bumped into one of the shrimp and it just deteriorated on contact, so I'll just let them stay until they dispear or my levels level out and I can add a clean-up crew.
Top-off wise I'm going with distilled until I get a RO/DI unit (probably this summer, maybe sooner if I can talk parentes into the "health benefits" of having RO/DI water for drinking).
I will, however, work on a topoff system with probably a timer for now and hopefully in the future a float valve controlling power to an air-pump pushing water out of a new gas container or similar.
Any more comments on the powerhead? I think I'm going to add one...
I have a setup very similar to a durso. When I sumbmerse my intake, I can't get enough water through the overflow to keep the pump from running dry even when I have the end cap off. Any idea's on how to get it to work better would be great. Not to conserned with surface skimming - the emperor 400 should break it up enough.
After my tank is setup for a while, and I start to run slightly low on any tests, I will crank out the money and buy the master kit from Salifert - I've heard they are the best balance for great quality and good prices.
Thanks for the advice!

 

[nacl-man]

The Durso should look something like the picture I attached, not sure if that is what you looked up or not. Your reply was kinda confusing, the standpipe goes in your overflow in order to quiet it down, it does not do anything for surface skimming / agitation. The standpipe should not decrease your flow rate through the overflow box, if it does it means it is not getting enough air (try drilling a larger hole in the end cap or more holes in the standpipe itself).
As far as a PH goes get a maxi-jet 600 or two. Your tank should be turned over 14-20 times an hour, the MJ 600 will give you about 160 GPH so two should be fine.
Don't try to talk your parents into the health benefits of RO/DI, it won't work lol They will be much prouder of you if you save up on your own and buy it yourself
Cheers!

 

[pyro]

My tank is drilled on the back. I tried the durso thing, but my return chamber is too small, so it is very very finicky and would be too easy to suck dry or overflow. Right now I just have the bulkhead with an unsubmerged intake (about 4/5 way full of water). It's slightly noisy, but so far it is the most dependable and I beleive it's still enough flow for the macros.
Yaaa, i know, i was just joking about the parents. Haha, my parents, buy an RO/DI filter for me

. My parents paid 100$ toward my stand so they didn't have an ugly stand in their house - and thats it. Certainly adds a sense of accomplishment to it though .
I'll post a pic of the overflow and piping later.

 

[new2u]

go used dude, i got a 60 gpd for 90 shipped! and it had extra di carterages and a whole lotta stuff, retalied for 400!