Chemicals....what do you really need.

[uofmpaco]

I have been at it for about two years. Obviously still learning. What chemicals do you really need for a reef tank. Things are going good for my 125 gallon tank. But I have lost about 500.00 in fish due to what I think was adding an akalinity aditive to my water. I haven't lost any since I quit adding. My question is other than essential and trace elements, stronium and calcium, what do I really need. I don't want to keep buying any extra stuff like reef snow and coral buffer is I don't need to.

 

[meowzer]

I have lots of bottles of additives that I no longer use since finding this forum....The rule I now follow is...DO NOT DOSE for what you don't test for....and regular w/c's will equalize your water elements

 

[loopy101]

+1

 

[uofmpaco]

I want my corals to grow and be healthy. I can keep leathers and sunbursts no problem. But I want to keep the hammer and frogspawn for longer than a month. Any help would be great.

 

[meowzer]

I have both hammer and frogspawn (among lots of other corals)...keep up on your water changes, and daily tank maintenance and you should be fine....Like I said earlier...I no longer add anything
I have to wonder what type of lighting you have??

 

[geoj]

I recommend the book Marine Chemistry, by Brightwell
What I dose:
A balanced buffer to allow ph, calcium, and magnesium to be kept at or better than seawater. Calcium for better growth of corals. Iodide for better growth of corals
I like to dose because I like Chemistry and it can be cost effective and less work then water changes. Don’t do it if you aren’t having fun or there is not a problem to be fixed.
PS: Other additives are to be tested to prove their claims

 

[forcrz6]

None. The only bottles that I have are the 1s with food in them.

 

[uofmpaco]

Thanks guys, my lighting is T5 HO (6)39 watt 1200k and (2) blue actinic lights. I have wasted a ton of money on chemicals. At least I do have some very nice purple and pink Coraline algea. I do have a lot of red slime and some other type of green slime type algea on the substrate. I change water every 7-10 days. Very little algea on the glass and water is crystal clear. Pics are attached.

 

[star27624]

I rarely dose. Regular water changes, with a good salt mix, take care of most everything.
Seeing that you have the algea and cyano bacteria going on I am curious.
What are your water parameters: Ca, Alk, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates (numbers if you please)?
What do you have in your tank for flow?

 

[nordy]

Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3049251
I have both hammer and frogspawn (among lots of other corals)...keep up on your water changes, and daily tank maintenance and you should be fine....Like I said earlier...I no longer add anything
I have to wonder what type of lighting you have??

+1

Mastering the basics of daily tank maintenance, water changes to replenish trace elements, and ONLY use additives that you know that you need because you have tested for them. My hammer and frogspawn, and a bunch of other corals, are doing very well under this plan.
I must admit that I only test alk, cal, and salinity anymore.

 

[jackri]

The only time I dose is after I frag -- and then it's trace elements, stronium, and iodine.
Other than that just pickling lime to keep my calcium and alk up.
Don't add anything you can't test for. Companies are trying to "sell" stuff.. which is ok, but most probably not needed.
Patience and time are key.

 

[meowzer]

I found an excellent article on Aquarium Water Parameters...(19 pages) I wanted to research what average parameters were, and this article not only gives you that, it explains what they are.....I don't think I can post the link though
BUT if you go to google, type in aquarium water parameters...it is the 2nd link...and written by Randy Holmes-Farley
I hope I was allowed to do that

 

[ryancw01]

I have been thinking of the same question lately. If my pH is always at 8.3 and my kH is always a little low, do I need to add kH buffer? I have been using it for quite some time to bring up kH, but now I am thinking maybe I don't need it?

 

[geoj]

Originally Posted by Ryancw01
http:///forum/post/3051748
I have been thinking of the same question lately. If my pH is always at 8.3 and my kH is always a little low, do I need to add kH buffer? I have been using it for quite some time to bring up kH, but now I am thinking maybe I don't need it?
In my tank the kH would keep falling because of very few water changes thus the need to add buffer. If you do enough of a water change each week this may keep you in the good zone and no need to add for now. If you do decide to stop dosing an Alk buffer keep an eye on pH it will fall when you need to add some buffer or do a water change…
A high kH will also help keep higher calcium and give more time before pH will fall…

 

[uofmpaco]

Originally Posted by star27624
http:///forum/post/3051502
I rarely dose. Regular water changes, with a good salt mix, take care of most everything.
Seeing that you have the algea and cyano bacteria going on I am curious.
What are your water parameters: Ca, Alk, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates (numbers if you please)?
What do you have in your tank for flow?
I have two cannister filters and UV sterilizer for flow.

 

[uofmpaco]

Does anyone know what kind of algea that is? It is like a green film. I have tried everything to get rid of it.

 

[uofmpaco]

My water parameters are pretty good. Ph 8.3, alk is around 300ppm, Nitrates a little high at 30. I have turned the lights off for 48 hours and then the algea just comes right back.

 

[shrimpy brains]

Originally Posted by uofmpaco
http:///forum/post/3053847
My water parameters are pretty good. Ph 8.3, alk is around 300ppm, Nitrates a little high at 30. I have turned the lights off for 48 hours and then the algea just comes right back.

Nitrates at 30 are very high IMO. They should be 0. Also, what about phosphates?? I think your algae problem stems from these factors, not the lights. JMHO

 

[bmkj02]

Originally Posted by Shrimpy Brains
http:///forum/post/3053863

Nitrates at 30 are very high IMO. They should be 0. Also, what about phosphates?? I think your algae problem stems from these factors, not the lights. JMHO
+1 on phosphates. Also not enough flow for a 125g.

 

[uofmpaco]

Any ideas of how to add flow. Isn't it unrealist to have Nitrates at 0. How in the world can you get them at 0.