Circulation plans, input welcome

melbournefl

melbournefl

Member
Okay, glass is in now doing the final stages of "in-tank" plumbing and wanted to run my plans past y'all for critique.
I've currently got one 1.5 inch overflow and I'm planning on pushing about 1,250 gallons per hour through the sump. Do you think 1.5" will feed that volumn? I've got a closed loop circulation system built into the tank and it will be driven by 4 Mag-7's at zero head (or real close to zero, not counting bends etc.) so I should be circulating about 2,800 gallons through the closed loop. Total circulation should be right around 4,000 GPH for a 220 gallon tank and a 40 gallon sump running all pumps full power.
All this is based on the assumption that the newly installed glass will indeed hold water! If not, I now have a VERY large reptile cage :eek:
Any comments and opinions welcome!
Thanks all,
Paul
 
cap'n pete

cap'n pete

Member
A 1.5" bulkhead should have no problems handling 1250 gph depending on how it is set up. Where is it, top or bottom?
 
broomer5

broomer5

Active Member
Hey Paul,Hang with me here on this math stuff - okay.
1" pipe normally is considered fine for 700 gph overflow.
If we look at the actual area inside the 1" pipe, we go back to our earlier school daze ...... and do the math.
Pi X radius squared = area of circle.
1" pipe I.D.
diameter = 1.0"
radius = .5"
.5 x .5 = .25
Pi 3.14 x .25 = .785 aquare inches in 1" pipe
If you used two 1" overflows - that would give you
.785 + .785 = 1.57 square inches of area in these two overflows and would comfortably handle 1400 gph.
Now .....
You have only one single 1.5" overflow.
We do the math again.
1.5" pipe I.D.
diameter = 1.5"
radius = .75"
.75 x .75 = .5625
Pi 3.14 X .5625 = 1.76 square inches of area.
MORE THAN TWO 1 inch overflows combined.
Two 1" can handle 1400 gph
Your 1.5" can CERTAINLY handle the predicted 1250 you'll have !
All of this is moot - if you're not draining unresticted to the sump.
This holds true for any pipe size flow arrangement.
Man .... I would love to see your set-up when it's finished.
I'm very interested in seeing this mondo-mega magdrive closed loop circulation system.
Sounds remarkable !!!!
Sending good vibes ~ no leaks ~ no leaks ~ no leaks !!!
later
 
melbournefl

melbournefl

Member
LOL Broomer, you crack me up dude! Just yesterday I was trying to help some guy with angles for a Hex hood and got confused. Thanks for the input! I just finished "re-engineering" my manifold for the closed loop so the pics I had of the old one are outdated already and the tank's never even had water in it LOL *sigh* live and learn I guess ;) I should have pics soon though and can't wait to share.
Thanks again,
Paul
 
broomer5

broomer5

Active Member
LOL Paul !
Funny thing is I could never remember that math stuff some odd years ago when staring at the math quiz iin school.
Just had the "deer-in-headlights" frozen gaze - wondering when the bell would ring and relieve me of such mental anguish.
I was too preoccupied with girls and other extra-curricular activities.
It was impractical - no real life problems to figure out LOL
Didn't do so hot in spelling either :(
Oh well ........ that's my story and I'm sticking to it !
Hope to see the new pics when you get a chance !
later - again :p
 
melbournefl

melbournefl

Member
By the way guy, it's all your fault that I decided to rebuild the manifold! One of your posts was about valves and flow rates etc. I had built the manifold using 3/4" gate valves feeding from a 1.5" input line. After reading your posts, I decided that, since there was no need for "fine control" of these lines, I'd change them out to 1" ball valves. Since the Mag-7 uses 1/2" input I figured this would allow plenty of flow to the pumps. Since the pumps are mounted in the "equipment" cabinet which is an intrigal part of the tank, they'll be at the same level as the return jets spread around the bottom of the tank, hence no loss of flow due to head pressure. Anyway, I'll get pics up as soon as I can! Thanks again for your comments.
Later,
Paul
 
broomer5

broomer5

Active Member
That was a wise decision IMO Paul.
Ball valves have much better history of not leaking around the stem packing too. The are 1/4 turn valves, have teflon packing and seals - and will hold up well under more flow applications.
Gates are good for shut off - but WILL leak over time. They shut off because you torque the gate down into the valve body, not with upstream and downstream teflon ball seals - such as used in ball valves.
Gate valves are also rising stem valves - and the stem packing wears as you open/close them. Eventually - they leak through the valve and up through the stem leak path.
Especially when we're talking "plastic" valves.
Globe valve - by far the best for "Flow Control" because of their inner flow characteristics. Problem though - using a globe pattern valve for flow control induces a HUGE pressure drop acoss the valve. But this is desirable when wanting to "control" flowrate. It's a trade off for sure.
Moving up to the 1" ball valves - another Great Idea !!!!
Bigger hole - less restriction - less pressure drop !
I figured that since it's my fault you redesigned your valving - the least I owe you is a detailed explanation.
later - for the third time !
 
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