confused

[clintjj]

I have been in saltwater for about 10 years, I have raised clowns for a few years, bang. cardinals, peppermint shrimp so I'm not a novice. I have decided to start to try my hand at corals but am killing them faster than I can put them in my aquarium. I have a 200g system with a 120g sump 400w mh on one end and a 165w led on the other, and t-5's killing them on both sides. my water always read
0ppm amo
0 ppm nitrites
0 ppm nitrate
cal 480
alk 8

the nitrates is what gets me never reads anything, right before a water change still 0. I have a blue carpet with a pr of clowns that I've had for 4 years 2 tangs, a scribble rabbit fish, clown trigger ( haven't seen him nip any corals (yet)) pistol shrimp and gobie and a hawk fish, nitrates should read something I feed twice a day, I have had my water tested ,I have bought new kits, somethings not rightjust can't figure it out.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by clintjj http:///t/396533/confused#post_3533272
I have been in saltwater for about 10 years, I have raised clowns for a few years, bang. cardinals, peppermint shrimp so I'm not a novice. I have decided to start to try my hand at corals but am killing them faster than I can put them in my aquarium. I have a 200g system with a 120g sump 400w mh on one end and a 165w led on the other, and t-5's killing them on both sides. my water always read
0ppm amo
0 ppm nitrites
0 ppm nitrate
cal 480
alk 8

the nitrates is what gets me never reads anything, right before a water change still 0. I have a blue carpet with a pr of clowns that I've had for 4 years 2 tangs, a scribble rabbit fish, clown trigger ( haven't seen him nip any corals (yet)) pistol shrimp and gobie and a hawk fish, nitrates should read something I feed twice a day, I have had my water tested ,I have bought new kits, somethings not rightjust can't figure it out.


Hi,

400w MH???? I was run out of the room with a 175w MH. New corals may not be used to that intensity of light, are you sure they are dead? Sometimes corals close up for days, even a week, and refuse to open, then one day a little bit at a time it comes on out.

Best possible thing would be to order your coral from here, or other site that offers it, and get the 14 day guarantee, if a coral doesn't make it in 14 days at least you won't be out the money. Maybe it's the LFS you are getting your corals from...often I wait to buy a coral once I see it doing pretty good in the store. Sometimes the store just got it, and has no idea if it's even healthy or not.

I actually always thought that the 14 day guarantee was useless when it comes to corals...they die so stinking slow, the guarantee is over by the end of their demise. If your corals are dying quick, it might be from where you are getting them.

I don't think it's a water issue or the shrimp and anemone would let you know. If you have macroalgae, it will absorb nitrates from the water, phosphates as well, and all tests will read 0...got anything like that in there?

 

[clintjj]

no macro algae, I got my corals from a friend who sells to the stores in the Houston area, I started my corals in the very edge of the light and they never seemed to recover from the move. My carpet anemone will shrink and start losing color if I go down to a 250 mh. trust me I tried, 2 times. I do run carbon to keep him from killing the coral. I can't figure it out since I also have a LED on the other side with the same results. I test my phosphates also a 0. last year I was working and didn't do a water change for 8 months, My daughter cleaned my skimmer once a week and my nitrates were a zero when I finally got to do a water change, That s what has me wondering if there is something that will make the nitrates false read

 

[tthemadd1]

Your bioload is very low for the size of the tank that is probably why your readings are 0. Mine are as well.
What type of corals are you having problems with keeping? Have you tried just putting in softies? Zoos or mushrooms? They are hardy
Do you dip your corals?
Where is your top off water come from?
How do you acclimate the corals?
How much live rock?

 

[tthemadd1]

Also I ran 400 metal halides for three years and my corals did fine. That shouldn't be the issue.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by clintjj http:///t/396533/confused#post_3533285
no macro algae, I got my corals from a friend who sells to the stores in the Houston area, I started my corals in the very edge of the light and they never seemed to recover from the move. My carpet anemone will shrink and start losing color if I go down to a 250 mh. trust me I tried, 2 times. I do run carbon to keep him from killing the coral. I can't figure it out since I also have a LED on the other side with the same results. I test my phosphates also a 0. last year I was working and didn't do a water change for 8 months, My daughter cleaned my skimmer once a week and my nitrates were a zero when I finally got to do a water change, That s what has me wondering if there is something that will make the nitrates false read


The only thing that will give a false reading on nitrates or phosphates are macroalgae, it absorbs it to live, and the reason folks keep it in a refugium or decorative stuff in the display.

True enough 400w MHs is not going to kill coral, people do it all the time, but if the coral are not used to that much light they MAY have a problem. That's why I tossed the idea out there.

You need to know a corals needs...those that require a quiet place, will not do well in strong flow, Those that need shade won't do well under the open bright lights, and those that require spot feeding can't live on whatever is floating in the water, the way a filter feeder will. Over skimming, sucking all the organics out of the water, will starve a filter feeder to death.

This book was always really helpful to me, it even shows placement in the tank.


An example page so you can see the info, just click on the picture to make it large enough to read....

 

[snakeblitz33]

Ok, ...

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned heavy metal poisoning, especially by copper. If the fish are fine and the parameters check out and it's not the lighting system, it's more than likely something to do with the water.

1. Use a copper test kit and check for copper in your tank. These test kits are not cheap - so it's better if you can take a water sample to your lfs and have them do it.
2. Look for any piece of equipment that is corroded, rusted, or otherwise discolored. Check your magnets to make sure that they are still epoxy coated and not rusting. Check for stray change.
3. Check for stray voltage using a voltage meter. You can find instructions online of how to find out if electricity is arching through your tank.
4. If you haven't already, install a GFCI unit on your power outlet. This will save your life - but it doesn't have a whole lot to do with why your corals are dying.
5. Use a polyfilter pad and pay attention to the colors that it changes to. Black is high nutrients. Blue is copper. green is Iron/rust. Using one of these pads will give you a better idea of what is going on.
6. Buy some macroalgae and a decent light to put in your sump. Macroalgae will help balance your tank and remove some nasty stuff. (I know nasty stuff isn't technical, but I'm tired of typing.)