Copper power for ich

S

stern

Member
Sup guys, okay I have ich in my tank, lost a few fish! I setup my 20 gallon for quarantine. I put my last 4 clowns and 1 dwarf lion in, I bought this treatment called COPPER POWER, had anyone used this before? My dilemma is, it says "use at 2.5 ppm copper: one fluid ounce to each 20 gallons" so I'm I supposed to add 1 ounce to my 20 gallon?? Just want to make sure before I kill the rest of my fish! Lol
Thanks guys
 

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reefkeeperZ

reefkeeperZ

Member
ok copper power is a complexed copper product, since copper tends to complex with molecules like carbonates then precipitate out of solution they complexed it with a protien to keep it in solution.

Follow the dosing meticulously, (yes one ounce for a full 20g with no decorations or other displacement if there is less than 20 gallon of water then do the math to break down the dosage) and only treat for the minimum time required because unfortunately copper in any form is still toxic to fishes, if they are already stressed and weak any copper treatment could be the end of them. even if they survive it can shorten their overall lifespan. ANY item that goes into that tank will be for the QT only or thrown out so you dont cross contaminate your DT with copper.

the manufacturer should have a recomended copper test kit to use with their product to ensure you have the correct PPM.

(honeslty if I am to use any copper treatment I prefer cupramine and the appropriate test kit for copper)
 
Last edited:
S

stern

Member
reefkeeperZ said:
ok copper power is a complexed copper product, since copper tends to complex with molecules like carbonates then precipitate out of solution they complexed it with a protien to keep it in solution.

Follow the dosing meticulously, (yes one ounce for a full 20g with no decorations or other displacement if there is less than 20 gallon of water then do the math to break down the dosage) and only treat for the minimum time required because unfortunately copper in any form is still toxic to fishes, if they are already stressed and weak any copper treatment could be the end of them. even if they survive it can shorten their overall lifespan. ANY item that goes into that tank will be for the QT only or thrown out so you dont cross contaminate your DT with copper.

the manufacturer should have a recomended copper test kit to use with their product to ensure you have the correct PPM.

(honeslty if I am to use any copper treatment I prefer cupramine and the appropriate test kit for copper)
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Wooow thanks Reefkeeper for the quick response!!!! And yes I ordered a copper test kit as well, I feel better now! Lol
 
reefkeeperZ

reefkeeperZ

Member
Good point beth, since the copper is detrimental to the bacteria as well. the chances for an ammonia spike killing everything is fairly high.
 
jay0705

jay0705

Well-Known Member
Given what you have. A 20 w sick fish, while not ideal will wrk. You Must monitor the water quality daily. If water changes are needed do them. Be excact! Take 5 gal out you need to add 1/4 ounce more copper ect. We all know bigger is better but in reality far more of us are in the same boat as you. Be diligent and it can wrk. My qt was a 20. Set up for over a yr so better in that way but it housed a 9"naso tang,coral beauty angel, and scooter blenny for 6 wks. All are doing very well in the dt now. So deep breathes your not screwed, just in a tough spot
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
I'm going to disagree that copper is the best course given the circumstances. This is a new very small hospital tank which is un-cycled. In order to maintain water quality, daily water changes will be required and in the meantime maintaining EXACT copper levels. From the OPs description, it seems like he is quite inexperienced (nothing wrong with that) and is uncertain about what to do. I would have not have a problem with this scenario but someone who is not used to hospital systems, treating multiple fish, or managing a QT that is uncycled may have a lot of trouble. Prepare for a lot of water changes with pre-mixed water (24 hours) and maintaining precise copper levels. You will need the appropriate test kits for your brand of copper.

If the OP has a FO, he could have successfully done hypo in-display tank.
 
jay0705

jay0705

Well-Known Member
I agree, but how many new people use or have a refractometer? Something very much needed for hypo. It does depend on severity of ich mild case order or buy a refractometer and do hypo. But it sounds in his case its a more urgent need
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
A good amt are willing to get one, and in the meantime you can use a float hydrometer to bring the parameters down until the refract is acquired. Anyway, it looks like the OP isn't coming back for advise.
 
jay0705

jay0705

Well-Known Member
I know. I think too many think of it like fw. If anything happens treat the main tank. W sw you generally just can't do that.
 
reefkeeperZ

reefkeeperZ

Member
Quarantine is an oft overlooked step in marine tanks, especially for those new to it. Even if they hear about it before hand many skip it because its one of those things not many freshwater people use so its an outside the box idea to some one new to the hobby. as well as what is seen as the extra effort and expense and space for another tank.

Unfortunately, its probably one of the worst steps to skip in almost every case. Since it is definitely the most cost and time effective step to saving fishes lives.

Also even people that quarantine their fishes often arent safe because they dont QT their snails crabs etc. ANYTHING wet should be QT'd as it can carry ich into your tank. The only time I don't qt now is when I know my tank is going to be fishless for more than 6 weeks.
 
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