Coralife Super Skimmer

cowfishrule

Active Member
i love this thing.
i had to make a slight mod to silence it though.
its pretty quiet, just not quiet enough for where my tank it.
problem im having is that the skimmer is ultra sensitive.
either its not skimming enough (levels are too low), or its filling the cup within 2 minutes.
i cant seem to find a happy medium.
its been running for over a week now- by now, it should be broken in, and i should be able to open the ball-valve from the pump all the way- but when i do, it's too much.
been following the instructions, and im lost.
 

michael_t

Member
I have one too. Love it.
It took about a month for it to make a culture and work effectively.
After that it really pumps out the crap. I do have to keep an eye on the collection cup everyday though for the reasons you specified.
So far I have noticed that several factors affect the cup collection rate. First is the amount of crap in the water. I.e. After a water change, less filtering.
Also the water level in the tank.
 

gatorwpb

Active Member
Yeah, if the water levels change, the change in pressure head affects the pump and can cause an overflow or reduction in skimming efficiency. More frequent top-offs help with that.
 

gsd

Member
If its the CSS65 pitch thsat ball valve betweenpump and skimmer, Its not needed, Run the skimmer pump as high up as possible. I run mine so it creates a vortex on the surface somewhat and also pulls in any surface scum. Matter of fact I do not use that ball valve on any of the CSS line of skimmers. I just run my pumps extrememy high in the water table. Keeping a close or constant water level is aboout the main thing to keep in mind. Set skimmer after topping off tank and if tank water level drops its not gonna overflow anything. You can find barometric prerssure also can have an effect on a skimmer. I noticed that when Hurricane Ivan came through as well as the ones last year......Once barometric pressure started to drop skimmers started to act up.
 

saltn00b

Active Member
i have the 125, it works well but i have it set up HOB style on my 35 hex ( i know, overkill ,i just had it laying around tho...), and the bubble diffuser box is on the surface of the tank not doing much at all! i have bubbles all over the tank - anyone have any ideas? someone suggested a stocking over the outlet, but that caused gradual back pressure that filled and overflowed the cup by the end of the day...
 

huskermike

New Member
I've been told, that the cannister is to prevent a backflow of some sort which stops the skimmer from overflowing. I don't know this for a fact, that's what my LFS told me.
Any truth to that???
 

gsd

Member
I dunno if your in the right thread or referring to the proper skimmer but what and where is this so called cannister you speak of on a coral life super skimmer?
 

djm

Member
I've had my CSS 125 running on my 75gal tank for 5 months now. Here are my thoughts, observations, suggestions.....
It is a great product for the money, but takes PATIENCE to get it dialed in.
The adjustment knob isn't "sensitive". It is insanely neurotic! The dial rotates a full 180 degrees, but finding the "sweet spot" can take hours of just barely touching the dial- depending on how twitchy your fingers are.
Once you find the right spot, it works flawlessly. It will pull out some of the nastiest gunk you have ever seen. It is not uncommon for the waste in the collection cup to be just as dark as coffee.
To find the right dial setting- open the dial until it starts to wet skim and then shut the dial down as slightly as possible. KEEP AN EYE ON IT! More likely than not, it will start to wet skim again and you'll need to shut the dial down a bit more. Keep dialing it slightly down any time it begins to wet skim.
The biggest mistake you can make with this unit is getting impatient for it to start collecting and opening the dial too far. Trust me- if you follow that last step, it will pull out gunk very well. Give it at least 4 days before you tweak the dial open a bit more if you have nothing in your collection cup.
Microbubbles in tank- I'll just repeat what dozens of others have said on this topic. Expect them in the beginning, but they will disappear after a few days. If they last for more than a few days, you may have a problem elsewhere. I had a MAJOR problem with microbubbles when I first installed my unit. After taking a closer look, I saw that they were coming from between the needle-wheel pump intake cover and the pump. Apparently I didn't get a good seat between the cover and pump when I put it together. That was easy enough to fix just by repositioning the intake cover.
Overflow- will it or won't it? Under "normal" operating conditions (dial set within parameters) it is impossible for it to overflow. There just isn't enough pressure to allow the water to escape once the collection cup fills- other than back into the main chamber. On the other hand, if you have your dial set significantly too high, YES, it will overflow. As matter of fact, (and I don't suggest you try it unless you are VERY curious) opening the dial all the way will force enough water to spray out of the collection cup breather to make Old Faithful jealous.
Maintenance- Following the manual is always your best bet. But I never do, and here is what I know- Anyone that has used a venturi knows that salt will build up and block the air intake. Just let the venturi air inlet suck down some warm fresh water and it will most likely remove the salt blockage. Last week I noticed a MAJOR decrease in bubble production that was helped by warm water, but nowhere near sufficient. I planned then on doing a major cleaning on my skimmer when I did my scheduled water change today. I guess it was a good premonition because when I got home from work this morning there were absolutely NO bubbles in my chamber. I removed the entire unit from my tank. I took the pump apart and cleaned it thoroughly with fresh water. I also cycled warm fresh water through the air-inlet silencer several times (yes, it definitely had salt build up in it). After getting it put back together and reinstalled, it is JUST like new. I mean EXACTLY like new. Microbubbles leaking out of the diffuser box and all.
Modifications- I have already posted about how and why I placed a shield over the diffuser box. In a nutshell, the box sprays and my lighting canopy sits directly on my tank.
The bottom line- It is a great product. Once you have a setting on the dial that works, don't fiddle with it!! If it isn't puking huge amounts of gunk, then you can rest assured that there isn't a ton of gunk in your tank that needs to be removed.
The main drawback of the CSS is the sensitivity of the water level adjustment dial. If Coralife would simply gear the dial down by 50%, it would be perfect. I would have already suggested it on ESU's message board, but the moderator has been MIA for over a month.
 

djm

Member
I guess if I am the only one that is going to do a full review I should add a couple of other points.
The breather stem on the output tube WILL spit water out as the diffuser box gets dirty. To solve this I simply attached a 1 1/2 inch piece of airline tubing to the stem. Works great.
Two more modifications I made compared to the instructions-
1) I turned the needle-wheel pump around 180 degrees so that the intake wasn't sitting directly under the diffuser box. Why recycle water that has already been through the skimmer?
2) I had to squeeze the skimmer into the only available corner of my tank- the right-hand side, opposite my built-in overflow. There was only one way fit it in and not have it interfere with my rockwork. Simply enough, I turned the diffuser box 90 degrees from the instructions. That shaved off about 2 inches of how far into my tank it would have been otherwise. The only drawback is that it forced the diffuser box to sit partially under my lighting canopy and I've already discussed how I remedied the majority of the spray. Anyway- I'm attaching a drawing of how the unit sits on my tank. It obviously isn't anywhere close to scale. I only made it for reference.
 

saltn00b

Active Member
hey djm, i am gonna post some pics of my set up later, can u please see if you can figure out why i have microbubbles ?
PS do you ride? what kind of bike?
 

djm

Member
I don't know if I can tell by looking at a photo, but post it any way.
I have a Honda CBR900RR that I bought new in 1994. I have considered trading it in several times- until I do the math. I paid it off in less than 2 years. My bike has been basically "worthless" as a trade or selling outright for several years now. I can still hold my own with any of the latest sportbikes, so to me it is priceless.
Ride Red!
 

gsd

Member
There has been more reviews and tips and tricks for CSS skimmers made and yet no one realy reads anything about them or they would not be asking the same stuff over and over and repeating the same old problems.........
Your not stuck with having that diffuser box in the location it falls in with the outflow plumbing as the plumbing can be extend on the outflow tube with common PVC pipe, add a T with the middle socket point up, and never worry about water squirting out of the breater vent, drill a p[air of holes in diffuser box and use suction cups instead of the bulky hanger or just go with a foam filter sleeve and forget the box. Just adding a few inches more of tube horizontaly to the outflow with a open socket T gives that miuch more time and space to help rid it of any bubbles. YOu can also run it down on a 45 deg if yu use a 45 deg fitting and just have return water enter at an abgle which actually removes even more bubbles. But in all reality you should not have any bubbles if its setup properly.......
 

michael_t

Member
GSD Said :
1) I turned the needle-wheel pump around 180 degrees so that the intake wasn't sitting directly under the diffuser box. Why recycle water that has already been through the skimmer?
Duh, why didn't I notice that!?! I will definately making that adjustment soon!
 

reefchem

New Member
Another mod you can make is to remove the flexible hose, install a 1"PVC gate valve, and the durso output (as described above). The gate valve will allow finer tuning of the water level in the skimmer. Be sure to fully open the stock ball valve when doing this. Works great.
 

lilchris

Member
I called the company on my micro bubble problem. The technician suggested first I take the difuser box out ans clean both sponges in the box really good. Thenm he said if that doesn't calm anything down, to make sure the pump was exactly 3" below the water line. He said if its further down than that, that will cause more bubles due to more water tat is trying to get through the pump. It sounded kind of cheesy to me, but when I made all the adjustments the bubbles slow down quiet a bit. I think what he was talikng about though was, he asked me if the water was overflowing out of the diffuser or was it just pouring out? i told him it was overflowing out. Thats when he told me to move the pump closer to the surface of the water.
 

saltn00b

Active Member
thats weird being that with the supplied hose, mine sits like 8" into the tank. the crappy directions do at least say it should be 6" (if i recall correctly) maybe i will try that.
do you guys have the top of the bubble dif. box at, or right above the water line, or the bottom of the box ?
 

djm

Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
thats weird being that with the supplied hose, mine sits like 8" into the tank. the crappy directions do at least say it should be 6" (if i recall correctly) maybe i will try that.
do you guys have the top of the bubble dif. box at, or right above the water line, or the bottom of the box ?
The input line from the pump to the chamber AND the output line from the chamber to the diffuser box are both supplied longer than they need to be. You have to cut them to make them ideal for your setup.
The top of my diffuser box sits exactly 1/4 inch ABOVE the water level.
 

cowfishrule

Active Member
i think i will try to swing the diffuser box around. only problem is that it is smack up against my glass canopy.
im also going to attempt to raise the pump towards the surface if i can.
i would love to point the intake upwards, but that could get complicated.
2 weeks later, and i still cannot open the ball valve all the way.
but it is pulling out some nasty gunk.
 

saltn00b

Active Member
Originally Posted by djm
The input line from the pump to the chamber AND the output line from the chamber to the diffuser box are both supplied longer than they need to be. You have to cut them to make them ideal for your setup.
The top of my diffuser box sits exactly 1/4 inch ABOVE the water level.
how do you know if its 'ideal' or not ?
i cant see how it could make a difference in microbubble production either
 
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