correct lighting for anenomes

on my 72 gal bowfront i have a 50/50 6000k actinic(sp?) 48" bulb. im looking to buy a yellow sabae and brown bubble tip anenomes once my tank is finished cycling. what is the proper lighting to support these?
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by armywife1314
http:///forum/post/2585893
on my 72 gal bowfront i have a 50/50 6000k actinic(sp?) 48" bulb. im looking to buy a yellow sabae and brown bubble tip anenomes once my tank is finished cycling. what is the proper lighting to support these?
HO T5's or Metal Halides....I would recomend a 6 bulb fixture of T5's or 2 150 watt MH's even 2 250 watt halides wouldnt be that bad. Depends on budget and what you like.
 
money's not an issue i just want what is best for the anenomes, but i dont want to be taken advantage of just because im not worried about the money. i know a lot of stores will sell you something that "might" work because of the prices but i dont want them to sell me something i dont need.
 

perfectdark

Active Member
If you were to ask if I would do it, the answer would be no. Mixing species of anemones in general is not recomended however it is done. Some have sucess some people have issues. The issues never seem to be black or white, its just that something is off and often cannot be explained. This has lead to the theory of chemical warfare in which anemones are said to engage in. There are 2 ways that competing species of anemones fight one is physical the other is chemical, either toxins speculated to be released in the water column or the ability for them to release their stinging cells in massive amounts harming your live stock. If they move close to eachother its rarely becase they are being civil and want to meet. If its chemical is rarley seen until ill effects are noticed. Running carbon is often a requirement no matter what but is said to help should this combat happen.
On the flip side there are numerous occasions where multiple anemones of the same species are kept with eachother with no issues. Thats not saying it has never happened but the chances of co-existing are much better with same species. And lastly the greatest sucess rate is with clones of the same anemone as they are not cosidered a different animal. HTH
 
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
http:///forum/post/2585942
If you were to ask if I would do it, the answer would be no. Mixing species of anemones in general is not recomended however it is done. Some have sucess some people have issues. The issues never seem to be black or white, its just that something is off and often cannot be explained. This has lead to the theory of chemical warfare in which anemones are said to engage in. There are 2 ways that competing species of anemones fight one is physical the other is chemical, either toxins speculated to be released in the water column or the ability for them to release their stinging cells in massive amounts harming your live stock. If they move close to eachother its rarely becase they are being civil and want to meet. If its chemical is rarley seen until ill effects are noticed. Running carbon is often a requirement no matter what but is said to help should this combat happen.
On the flip side there are numerous occasions where multiple anemones of the same species are kept with eachother with no issues. Thats not saying it has never happened but the chances of co-existing are much better with same species. And lastly the greatest sucess rate is with clones of the same anemone as they are not cosidered a different animal. HTH

thats awesome where do you get cloned anenomes?
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by armywife1314
http:///forum/post/2586011
thats awesome where do you get cloned anenomes?
Some LFS may have an anemone that has split, that now is considered a clone, but you would need to trust your LFS if the say that its a clone. The only sure way of getting one is to buy an anemone give it the correct environment and light, and then wait. Over time they split, although anything under a year is considered to be because of stress, and multiple splits at once is a red flag. Normal splitting can occur anywhere from a year to 2 years of having one in your tank.
 
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