"Correct" pH/Alk levels?

fishnet

Member
I'm still a bit of a novice when trying to get my chemistry right, but I know that some things are just fine right now. Nitrates: 0, Ammonia: 0. But my pH is about 8.6 and my Alk is "high" (my test kit just gives a relative value). I've been battling cyano a bit and I noticed that it actually got a little worse AFTER my water change. Perhaps I'm introducing phosphates? :notsure: I don't have a test for those yet.
So... what levels should I be targeting? I've read here that most people try to INCREASE their pH, not lower it. Should I be concerned? Also... I seem to be having a hard time keeping my Mexican turbo snails alive for very long. I bought 5 a few months ago and I think I'm down to 2 now. Related to chemistry? I dunno.

Thanks for any insight.
 

ezee

Member
fishnet,
If you are using tap water and having algae blooms with water changes you are likely correct. What kind of water do you use?
E
 

fishieness

Active Member
i would bet that tap water would be a good possibility to a sorce of yoru problems with the sanils and cyno if that is what you are using.
however, keep your Ca between 400-450 and your pH and ALK should fall into line.
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
do a water change, and if you're using tap water, STOP IMMEDIATELY!!!
 

fishnet

Member
Water... I was thinking that might be a part of the problem. At least I know I shouldn't be using tap water. :scared: I'm using DI water with the unit shown below. It is a DI unit, and more expensive in the long run than buying a RO/DI unit, but I haven't shelled out the big bucks for a good unit.
Is this a lousy unit? The more I learn about the most critical components of this hobby (the saltwater trifecta: water, lights, live rock), the more I think I should invest in a good RO/DI system.
Can anyone suggest a good calicium test kit? I have no idea what my calcium level are.

 

fishieness

Active Member
i have that DI filter. It seems to work great for me.
i have a nutrafin Ca test kit and once again, it seems to work well.
 

fishnet

Member
Originally Posted by fishieness
i have that DI filter. It seems to work great for me.
i have a nutrafin Ca test kit and once again, it seems to work well.
So... do you struggle with phosphates (or anything else) with water from this DI unit?
 

fishieness

Active Member
i have absolutely no problems with it. Although i dont have a test for heavy metals, although i imagine my corals would be able to tell me if i have them, but they are all doing great.
cyno could also be from having old bulbs, over feeding, not having adequate flow, ect.
but i would say get a calcium test to see where you are at.
What brand of salt are you using?
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
no, that only filters out some minerals, but it still leaves some in it.
 

fishnet

Member
Originally Posted by jdragunas
no, that only filters out some minerals, but it still leaves some in it.
Which "that" are you referring to? Brita or Aquarium Pharmaceuticals DI unit?
As far as salt mix, I used Ocean -sumthin-or-other (I forget right now). I've seen it online, seen it listed as what others use, and I got it at the LFS. I'm pretty confident that it isn't a part of the problem.
Old bulbs: I have NO lighting for now. I bulb is an older 40W 50/50. I just bought a 40W actinic too. I want to upgrade to PC once I get the cash together.
Overfeeding: always a possibility. I'm trying not to. I only feed once a day, and I probably only feed 5 or 6 days a week.
Adequate flow: it's a 55 gallon tank. I just added two MaxiJet 900's. I also have a AquaC Remora w/ MJ1200 and a AquaClear 500 HOB filter for circulation. I think that takes me to roughly +/- 1100 gph of flow, which is about 20x total turnover -- not bad since it is FOWLR right now. Of course, where the water flows is likely another problem -- I should probably move my powerheads down a little bit so they blow on the rock more.
Thanks for the input... everyone here is always so helpful!
 

ezee

Member
fishnet,
Definitely invest in a RO/DI. I picked up one from the famous auction site but it took some work before it was working properly, so don't do that unless cash is a big issue.
E
 
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