Couldn't leave well enough alone, new 30gallon nano underway

higholive

higholive

Member
Well hello to all... I have surely caught the bug, one nano is just not going to do it for me any more. I am currently working on setting up my next one... this one will be a 30gallon. As things fallin into place I will up date with more information. Right now I can say this.... the lighting is going to be dual MH 175watt (10000K) with a 96watt PC actinic. This should be plenty of lighting for all sorts of fun stuff.
This could take some time to finish up, but I will be sure to keep updating. Please let me know what you think. I have a feeling this is going to be pretty cool.
I am currently working on the custom build and designed stand and hood. I have all the structure supports cut. Tomorrow I will be piecing them together i think.
 
baylisc

baylisc

Member
Looking great! is that the actual name of the paint or your name for it? please keep us updated! thanks
 
liverock27

liverock27

Member
Looks great so far. What are you planning on using for filtration? I have had a 30g for about 6months and I love it. Keep us up to date and keep the pictures coming
 
higholive

higholive

Member
First and formost thank you for the positive repsonses.
And now to answer your two questions:
The paint is Krylon Fusion Patriotic Blue. When I bought it was just the darkest blue they had at Walmart in the Fusion (that is meant to adhere to glass and other low binding surfaces). It wasn't until I went to put it on the tank that I realized that the actual name was Patriotic Blue. I really like it though.
Second as for filtration:
I currently have on the way an AquaC Remora Protein Skimmer with the MaxiJet 1200 (I was told that it was more realiable).
This will work in combination with the CRP Overflow box that will flow down to a refugium that I will be building out of a spare 10 gallon tank. This will most likely have a DSP in it with live rock (plus other little critters) and will be one a reverse day light photo cylce. This will then dump into either a 20 or 30 gallon sump with a MagDrive 7 returning the water to the display tank.
The main tank will probably only have a 2 to 3 inch sand bed because in my opinion the 4" SB just takes up to much of the tank, but hey maybe I will change my mind.
I am in the process of setting up at web site throught geocities to document the process. The address will be http://www.geocities.com/acutma . I will also continue to make updates here.
I welcome more questions and sugestions. Peace.
 
higholive

higholive

Member
The flow plans are stated above, but in addition if I can find good ways to hide some other power heads they will be included. I saw this one power head that actaully moves back and forth (and it was preety cheap) which I may pick up, will give a wave like motion. If I can find a way to hide it in the rock work and have the water jet out from the rocks I think that might be cool.
 
liverock27

liverock27

Member
The CPR unit that you are going to use, well flat out sucks!! First of all it doesn't keep a syphon. Second, it doesn't sit down in the tank too far(depth wise), so to use it you will have to keep the water level at the very top of the tank and will have to make sure each day that it stays there by adding topoff water. If you mess up one day and don't top it off then you will have a mess in your aquarium room. This is just from experience of using one on a 10g tank with a 20g long refug/sump.
 
higholive

higholive

Member
Liverock27,
Can I ask you a couple questions. First were you using the optional aqaulifter pump that is designed to restart the syphon if it is lost? Second is there another brand of overflow box that you are currently using that is better than this one. I have not bought the box yet so if there is a better idea for one I am will to consider. I really don't want to go through the hassle of trying to drill the glass. In the future I will probably buy reef ready pre drilled tanks, but that is a differnt story altogether.
The one review they have for this on ***********, the person gives it 5 stars and says "Works flawless, very well built, and very quiet. Recommend this one to anyone!"
But again I am open to change, and will welcom any suggestions, or at least consider them.
 
robchuck

robchuck

Active Member
Live Rock,
It doesn't sound like you were using your CPR overflow box properly. No matter what kind of overflow is used to move water from a display tank to a sump/refugium, the water in the display tank always should remain at a constant level (about 1/4"-1/2" above the overflow point). The evaporation should only be evident through the water level in the sump or the water level in the lowest chamber below your display tank.
For what it's worth, I've used a CPR for several years (with both a Rio RVT and an Aqualifter keeping the siphon) and have never had one problem or flood. Though the maintenance required to keep a CPR running is more than a U-tube overflow requires, I'd still take the CPR any day.
High Olive,
A few good U-tube overflow recommendations would be models built by Lifereef or Amiracle (sometimes referred to as "pre-filter").
 
higholive

higholive

Member

Originally posted by capschamp
where are you going to get your lights from? and how high do you plan on hanging them above the tank? I am looking to upgrade my lights and I have been looking for a while, but I want to make sure I do it correctly.
capschamp
I think I am going to get the lights for ***********. I am planning for them to be 12" of the top of the tank, at the recommendation of the *********** customer service department. They are going to be inside my closed hood (with cooling fans).
Other updates:
I am looking to bypass using the overflow box, am and seriously considering drilling/cutting the back of the tank. I was reading on a related board, --, that people have been having good luck with using the Rotozip and ceramic tile cutting bit.... you are suppose to be able to cut your holes in about 5mins, at least that is what at least 3 people are reporting.
I am very close to finishing the base of the stand. I just have to sink in a couple more screws and bolts. I have had the tank up on it and it fits perfectly. I think it is the best wood work that I have ever done. Soon I will be moving on to the back/ and hood and them the plumbing/lighting. The process is a bit slow, but I am balancing this with work, my girl, and my other tank, and sleep.... so it will get done, it is just taking a while. Am having a good time though.
If the tank drilling goes as planned, I have a could more tricks up my sleeve that I am going to integrate into the tank but I can't let those out of the bag yet. I would hate to see my ideas start popping up before I even get to use them.
Ok that is enough for now. If there are any question, bring'em on...
 
fishytim

fishytim

Member
You do not want it to sit very low in the tank. Where is sits is where the water level is going to be... I use one and it has been great...
 
liverock27

liverock27

Member
what type drill and drill bit are you using? I had my 10g tank and 20g sump drilled for me, but I was wanting to know how I could do it by myself. Thanks
 
higholive

higholive

Member
Well from what I have read the best way I can figure to do this is to start with the ball point diamond coated bit from Dremel, to make the initial hole through the glass. Then use the Ceramic Tile cutting bit made for rotozips to cut the rest of the way. I am probably going to be getting a Rotozip RZ10, this model allows for variable speed, something like 5,000-30,000 rpm. It should do the trick.
 
liverock27

liverock27

Member
Thanks, but pricing those bits seems a little expensive, so I think I will stick with letting my lfs drill wholes for me.
 
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