Creating a QT tank!

[new2u]

Hey guys, I'm a pretty seasoned reef keeper, who is in the had been in the business of, as calfo said "russian rullet", not using a QT tank. Unfortunatly, I have a clownfish that every week or two will show up with a couple spots of ich in my 12 gallon nano cube. It never really bothered me before, but since I've got some money, I'd like to start up a QT tank for this and future needs. Currently I have an old wetdry filter that I think i could use for the task along with assorted PVC parts to use in it. Heres my question, could I use my old wetdry and just buy your standard old walmart tank? What size would you reccomend? no large fishes other than a possible 2-3" foxface way down the road. Do you think a 20H would take care of my needs? Heres an idea that I've had too, do you think I could use a damsel or two always in the QT to liven it up and keep it contenually cycled? I could just toss them in my 'fuge when theres other guys in the QT.

 

[squidd]

My thoughts on QT, HT, and Acclimation...
With all the discussion on "Do you QT...?" "Should you QT..?""What is QT..?""How do you QT..?""Whats HT...?""How does all this relate to acclimation..?""How does this relate to treatment..?" and " Why can't I just toss my new fish in the tank...?" I thought I'd toss out a few simple qualifiers...again, this is all open to discussion, and just like setting up your tank or filtration, or whether you choose to run a skimmer or not...There is more than one way to do and set up QT...
Please read the fine print...
Let's get the small print/Disclaimer out of the way...right up front..."This is my "opinion" and you are welcome to yours"...
Definitions:
QT "Quarantine Tank": A separate tank or system NOT connected to Main tank water supply in any direct way. Used to quarantine or "separate" a new arrival for observation, acclimation and stress reduction...
HT: "Hospital Tank": A separate tank or system NOT connected to Main Tank water supply in any direct way. Used to "Treat" a sick, injured, or parasite infected fish separate from main tank...
HT: can also mean "Hotel Tank" A separate tank or system that MAY be connected to main tank water supply. Used to "grow out" a too small specimen. or give a feisty fish a "time out" from MT and Tankmates...
Set Up and Maintenance:
QT: A QT (again separate from main) needs to be a safe, stable, "cycled" environment in order to not induce any further stressors to your new acquisition from water parameter changes...But it also needs to be a "clean" environment in that there is no place for disease and parasites to "hide"...so sand and live rocks are OUT..
So "How do you cycle and maintain a tank with no LR/LS?" you may ask..Every "newbie" post says "That's" the FIRST thing you put in...
Yes, for a large volume, main tank with a medium to high bio load, LR/LS IS your best filtration...But a QT is generally a smaller volume system (but not too small to invoke stressors) and the bio load is limited to ONE fish at a time...So filtration needs are less...
A simple "sponge" filter or even the ever "popular" Bio Wheel Hang on filters will work just fine...Understanding the "cycle" (subject of another chapter in one of my books ) tells you that it's not the "water" that needs to cycle...but having an adequate population of nitrifying bacteria to maintain good water parameters...which is the "result" of the cycle that we seek...
This can be achieved either by keeping the QT "alive and running" full time with say mollies or a damsel or preferably some "easy to catch" movable fish...(not always an option due to space and time constraints)
OR... Having an "instant" cycle by keeping the sponge filter and /or Bio wheels wet and "alive" by placing and keeping in your sump or fuge until needed...and then transferring water from MT to QT (partial WC in MT) and hooking up sponge filter or Biowheel...QT tank is NOW ready and has an adequate population of nitrifying bacteria to sustain it's "first" and "only" fish..
Other items required are a heater too maintain temps, a "solid" plastic tube or "shelter/hiding place" and possibly "slight" additional flow to keep water moving and oxygenation up...Skimmers are "optional" on QT as it's a short term use/low bio load tank...Lights are "optional" on QT, nice to "see" fish for observation purposes, but lower lighting is stress reducing...
This is the same set up for a HT (hospital) tank and can become one instantly from QT or set up directly to treat...It's now the "treatments" that dictate the space enviroment...sand and rock absorb meds, and are "ruined" by copper and Hypo treatments...Keep it simple...keep it clean..

 

[squidd]

Back to QT....and it's use's for acclimation and observation...
"Observation" being the key...The fish is in QT for a "period" of time (undetermined as of yet) to "observe" habits, eating, checking for "spots" and fungus or slime, or signs of trouble swimming or breathing...
To begin eating and assimilating energy spent/used up by stress producing hormones that affect it's basic cellular metabolism...
This is where the "low salinity" (not necessarily "HYPO" level) water comes into play...A fish uses quite a bit (30%) of it's cellular energy regulating osmotic balance in high salinity water..energy better directed at developing immune system function, digestive function and lowering of stress produced hormones...
If NO signs of illness or parasitic infestation present themselves....4 weeks should give you reasonable assurance the fish will be fine in the MT...If after 2 weeks "sign free" but you feel better "Hypo Killing" any "possible" ick..start your "treatment" and continue for an additional 4 weeks...
If at any time signs of illness or infestation present themselves...Imeadiatly (after proper diagnosis) start the "correct" treatment regime and continue with isolation/observation for an additional 4 weeks AFTER all signs have dissappeared...
If for some reason you choose to (or need to) use copper or any "non-transferable" meds..you can dispose of the sponge from the filter (or the bio wheels/ they are NOT that expensive) otherwise place them back in MT sump or fuge to keep bacteria alive...and break the QT down till it's next needed...
HTH

 

[new2u]

Thanks squid, so you'd reccomend a sponge filter or biowheel rather than a full fleged wetdry? Also, would you be more inclined to a 20H 20L or 18H? I'm kind of leaning twoard the 18, since its evaporation, cost, and maintinance would be much, much easier. Do you think this would suffice?

 

[squidd]

Thanks squid, so you'd reccomend a sponge filter or biowheel rather than a full fleged wetdry?
It's a lot easier and quicker to set up a foam or wheel than a full sump and WD for QT...Plus the cleanup and toss out if you med...
Also, would you be more inclined to a 20H 20L or 18H? I'm kind of leaning twoard the 18, since its evaporation, cost, and maintinance would be much, much easier. Do you think this would suffice?
Size wise they are all pretty close, not much difference really, use what you have...If your going out to buy...I like the 20 L for more swimming room rather than water depth...but either would be fine...