Use a blade with as many teeth you can afford. Like 180 tooth. Also you MUST put masking tape on both sides of the board at the cut sight.. This helps keep the heat down so it doesn't melt the acrylic back togerther again. I found out the hard way and tried to use a jig saw without tape and it melted it back together. Nice way to throw away good money. Hope this helps.
a good plywood or veneer blade will work, plastic cutting blades are made also. But n2deep is right, the key is tooth count and don't go slow. Go as fast as you SAFELY can. And the masking tape is definitely a good idea.
Make sure you wear eye protection and long sleeves. The "dust" is very hot and is unplesent to the arms.
A router is actually the best way to cut it unless it's thick (like over 1/4")
Thanks all! That's what I needed to know. Actually Jester, I think I like the router idea, I hadn't even thought of that, the other option might be to go with the plywood blade with a slight overcut and then put a final edge on the sheet with the router. Hmmmmm time for me to do a bit of experimenting I reckon.
Thanks again for the input!
Later,
Paul
DO NOT run the blade backwards, and do wear long sleeves.
Just use some common sense with how lose they are. If you don't, you will have hot melted plastic all over them which is a MUCH bigger safty hazzard than a long sleve shirt. IT BURNS. I know. I have been cutting acrylic (more specifically Lexon) and Plexi for 5 years.