Cutting tank support

smickied

Member
I have been running 2x65w's on my 28 gallon with out a shadow problem, but I have just added a 10k 250w mh and 2x75w actnics vhos they are suppended about 7inches off the water. (using a great idea of using plant hangers I found on this post (thankyou!)).
The problem is I have a black 3 inch support that runs the middle of the top of my bow front tank. When the MH comes on it creates a large shadow and the support gets really HOT.
My tank is stocked and I don't want to remove everything, but I would like to install a clear accrilic piece to replace it.
My idea would be to cut the new piece, glue it on each end to hold it in place, drill 3 to 5 holes on each end and pop rivit the new support in place. Afterward I would cut out the black origional support.
Would aluminum rivits work?
An I getting in way to far over my head?
Does anybody else have an other options?
:confused:
 

robchuck

Active Member
I'm with Chris in that I'd never remove a center brace from a tank, especially a bowfront. But if you're still determined, I would consider using nylon screws to hold the clear acrylic piece in place instead of pop rivets.
 

birdy

Active Member
I have seen it done before, instead of pop rivits, they make these nylon screws you can use.
Here is my suggestion, Find a large clap that will fit across the top of your tank, clamp the tank so the center brace is not supporting the weight of the tank, but dont do it so tight you will mess up the seals.
Cut your acrylic to fit the space and drill holes for the nylon screws
Then remove the center brace leaving enough for the new acrylic brace to attach to.
Dry the part of the center brace and rough it up with sand paper, do the same to the side of the acrylyic you will be glueing down Use a two part epoxy for glueing plastic, get the stronges psi you can find.
Drill the rest of the hole in the plastic for the nylon screws. Put the screws in. I would leave the clamp in place at least overnight for the glue to cure.
Here is my disclaimer, I have done this minus the nylon screw part and it did not work and I had to get a new tank. The guy who did the screws said his stayed together fine, but you are taking a risk by doing this, so just be aware. I am not responsible for any problems you may have, this is merely a suggestion
 

smickied

Member
I wish it was as easy as moving the light around the retro is 24" and the top of the tank is 24".
I havn't thought of the nylon screws. I'll look into that as well
Are you sure I can't blame you Birdy if every thing goes haywire? It will make me feel better to displace the blame elsewhere:thinking: :hilarious
Thanks of your input, I'm going to do some more research and if anybody else has any other ooptions please let me know.
 
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