Cyano...I don't get it.

camfish

camfish

Active Member
So I have been battling this for a while and quite frankly am POED! I have a 30 gallon tank that I feed weekly, an octo skimmer, a 20 gal sump. Efficent flow and I feed prime reef. So a 2 days ago I did a 20% water change and then it came back full force so yesterday I did a 10% water change and I get home today and it is worse than before. I'm getting quite angry. Any tips to help me out?
 
mkzimms

mkzimms

Member
cyano likes nutrients, highlight, low flow and phosphates. looks like you have 1, 2, and 3 covered soooo.... how are your phosphates?
i had a huge issue with cyano for the last few months, although everything seemed perfect. i siphoned it out and started running GFO (phosban) in a reactor and it hasn't reappeared since.
you could also give red slime remover a try. do not run the GFO and red slime treatment at the same time though, it will wreak havoc with your pH.
 
camfish

camfish

Active Member
Phosphates don't show up on my test kit, but I assume they are being eaten up by the cyano. So I think I'll give a phosban reactor a try. Thanks.
 
culp

culp

Active Member
to get rid of phosphate in the tank try to find out what is causing it. i changed the salt i was using and the food that i feed my fish and that did the trick for me after about 3 weeks.
 
scottallert

scottallert

Active Member
I had the same problem, with my 30 i just did more water changes and more flow then it gradually disappeared.
 
camfish

camfish

Active Member
Originally Posted by scottallert
http:///forum/post/2860182
I had the same problem, with my 30 i just did more water changes and more flow then it gradually disappeared.
That's my plan. I'm going to do feed weekly (I only have 2 fish...I stopped adding after the cyano appeared), I'm also going to do 5 gallon changes every other day and add a phosreactor. I guess you have to cover all the bases to eradicate it.
 
yossaria

yossaria

Member
I have a 40 gallon tank that has been running for over 2 years now. At about 4 months in, I had problems with cyanobacteria. Much advice was given concerning tank parameters including flow rates, nitrates, phosphates, feeding and lighting. I found that cyanobacteria could be completely eliminated by turning out the aquarium lights for two solid days. My tank is in my lab's office so not only did I have no tank lighting, but I also had no room lighting (only ambient window lighting). The results were amazing. After two days of lights out there was no trace of cyanobacteria in my tank and it never came back. I am not sure if everyone will have this same experience or not, but in my experience, starving cyanobacteria for light works better than starving them for phosphates. Give it a try if you think that your inhabitants can survive a few "overcast" days and let me know what you find.
Cheers,
Yoss
 
mie

mie

Active Member
How old is your test kit? If you are having cyano outbreaks, you should be showing somthing on the phophate test. Maybe take it to your lfs and have them test it. My son delt with this real bad as have I, less feeeding, less light, not next to a window, better flow across the sandbed (no dead spots) Do you use carbon?
 
camfish

camfish

Active Member
Originally Posted by mie
http:///forum/post/2860336
How old is your test kit? If you are having cyano outbreaks, you should be showing somthing on the phophate test. Maybe take it to your lfs and have them test it. My son delt with this real bad as have I, less feeeding, less light, not next to a window, better flow across the sandbed (no dead spots) Do you use carbon?
I have but do not currently use carbon. Should I?
 
woody189

woody189

Member
I started a thread with the same problem a few days ago, only my cyano was in my DT.
The LFS said I had minimal phosphate but i was told that that may be because the cyano is eating all (like you said). They also advised me to get a phosphate pad which i will do.
Turning out the lights was nothing more than a temporary fix for me. You can try it, but I doubt it's going to elimniate the cause.
 
mkzimms

mkzimms

Member
even though the phosphates are not showing up on the test they are still there. most chemical test kits have much to be desired at the low ranges. but even a little phosphate can create problems. to really get a reading on them you need a colorimeter like the ones made by hanna.... they run around $200.
i just run GFO, use ro/di and do water changes. even if you can get a acurate test on them, that's the best your going to do to get rid of them anyway, so i dont bother testing.
 
oceansidefish

oceansidefish

Active Member
Sometimes it is the cause of something having died. My last bout was solved when I saw the head of my purple firefish.... Usually the lights out works, also try to get as much out as you can everyday.
 
prime311

prime311

Active Member
You can try the lights out trick first. That will get rid of whats there. If it comes back, then a more permanent solution will be needed, like running Phosban in a TLF reactor(failry inexpensive).
 
camfish

camfish

Active Member
I did have a clown die, but after my pistol figured that out and my nasses helped, I see no trace of it. This isn't the cause though, I had this problem before.
 
mkzimms

mkzimms

Member
the last step if nothing above has worked is to hit the tank with a dose of red slime remover. it works very effectivly, but as with all treatments if you have not solved the underlying reason, it will eventually come back. however, it will let you get a handle on the problem at first it will give you the will to work on your tank again. i know when my tank starts to look like crap ill get less and less energy to work on it.
you'll have to turn your skimmer off during the treatment, but then after two or three days turn the skimmer back on a run carbon. keep an eye on your pH during treatment.
 
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