Cyanobacteria (Oscillatoria)

[morgan175]

Well RED SLIME is in my refugium growing along with my chaeto. Treatment according to books herbivores, strong flow, protein skimming, activated carbon. Then from threads here one says to turn off the lights for three days to stop growth but not more then three days and once a month. I could elevate my alkalinity to see if this helps..
My question if I try the lights out will this also effect my chaeto? 2. I have none in my main tank which leads me to believe my lighting might be getting old? I have no skimmer until I can come up with $350 for 1000 sss really don't want to run carbon don't know why. To add flow fo refugium not the answer in my mind plenty already.
Thanks for your time.
Tried in another thread to get answer on a gobie wihch best shifts the sand and is easy to keep. How much of a pod population do you need for one and is this a fish wich is added last to your tank lets say after a dwarf angel.
Tank is 110 with a 30 gal refuge.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by morgan175 http:///t/392882/cyanobacteria-oscillatoria#post_3491542
Well RED SLIME is in my refugium growing along with my chaeto. Treatment according to books herbivores, strong flow, protein skimming, activated carbon. Then from threads here one says to turn off the lights for three days to stop growth but not more then three days and once a month. I could elevate my alkalinity to see if this helps..
My question if I try the lights out will this also effect my chaeto? 2. I have none in my main tank which leads me to believe my lighting might be getting old? I have no skimmer until I can come up with $350 for 1000 sss really don't want to run carbon don't know why. To add flow fo refugium not the answer in my mind plenty already.
Thanks for your time.
Tried in another thread to get answer on a gobie wihch best shifts the sand and is easy to keep. How much of a pod population do you need for one and is this a fish wich is added last to your tank lets say after a dwarf angel.
Tank is 110 with a 30 gal refuge.
The cyanobacteria is feeding on phosphates just like the macros, and a refugium has low water flow on purpose. The macros should out compete the cyano for food. Remove the cyano as much as possible until it goes away for good. As long as it isn't in the DT you are fine.
As for the sandsifting goby, a goldenheaded sleeper goby looks better than a diamond goby IMO. They get big and will keep the sand looking new. As frozen foods (frozen mysis) land on the bottom they will (should) learn to eat frozen foods. That way when it cleans all the fauna out of the sand it can still survive. ( this goes for diamond and sleeper gobies)
The sleeper goby drops sand as it travels, so if you are going for corals...get a diamond goby. The sand sifting gobies and mandarins fight (the mandarin will loose) so for a pod eater choose one or the other.
The gobies are peaceful fish and can be added anytime. Only one per tank since they are big eaters and will clear out the sand of fauna in no time. They eat more than pods and clear the sand of all the tiny things that live in it.

 

[beth]

You can turn out the lights as suggested, check your chaeto to see how it is doing along the way.
I had cyano in my reef tank shortly after setup. It was a real mess. I had chaeto and corals and no one suffered from the lights out procedure. I actually did this for a couple of weeks, leaving the lights on for about 2 hrs each day just to get the fish fed. It worked.
Siphon off as much as you can without disturbing too much, because what is disturbed will just seed elsewhere in your system.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beth http:///t/392882/cyanobacteria-oscillatoria#post_3491565
You can turn out the lights as suggested, check your chaeto to see how it is doing along the way.
I had cyano in my reef tank shortly after setup. It was a real mess. I had chaeto and corals and no one suffered from the lights out procedure. I actually did this for a couple of weeks, leaving the lights on for about 2 hrs each day just to get the fish fed. It worked.
Siphon off as much as you can without disturbing too much, because what is disturbed will just seed elsewhere in your system.
He only has the cyano in his refugium. Wouldn't what I posted work?

 

[morgan175]

Ok thank you for the help I will do a combo of all. Does this mean I have to wait to add fish.
Turkey baster is not really working, did by hand in a few spots.
I'm figuring the rock is seeping out phosphate's. I have a two little fish reactor should I add this to my system? I have that npx bioplastics media should I put in the reactor and run. I bought It but thought it would stop the chaeto from growing so never hooked it up.
It can't be to many fish their are only 3 green chromis and I feed every other day.
So a diamond goby needs a pod foundation so I have to wait.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by morgan175 http:///t/392882/cyanobacteria-oscillatoria#post_3491577
So a diamond goby needs a pod foundation so I have to wait.
No, a sandsifter feeds on all kinds of tiny critters in the sand, you don't have to wait unless you started with dead dry sand...just be aware they do eat all of the fauna out of the sand until it's sterile. That means that evntually the sifter will starve if you don't teach it to eat frozen, you can't build up enough fauna in the sand to keep that from happening, even if you waited 10 years..
Mandarins are not sand sifters, they eat tons and tons of pods...THEY need a pod foundation.....thats all they eat, and if you can get them to eat frozen that's great, but to keep one alive without an established refugium to breed pods.....makes their chance of survival to almost 0.
I don't know why you keep saying that you need to wait to get a sand sifting goby?????? Sandsifters such as the diamond or sleeper goby, don't need a pod foundation, they just need live sand.
The rock is not leaking phosphates, PO4 is found in the fish food, that the fish poop and dump back into the tank. Low flow and extra nutrients feed cyano. macroalgae such as chaeto also feeds on the same thing. So if you remove the cyano and leave the macros, the macros will out compete the cyano for food and starve it out. So that when you harvest (remove) the overgrowth of chaeto, you will remove the phosphates from your system.
I hope that explains things a little clearer

 

[reefkprz]

the best way to get rid of cyano is to reduce its food supply. excess flow just makes for stringy cyano. I have battled cyano countless times and won every time. this time the key to my success was adding a turf scrubber, or algae scrubber and maintining a good water change ritual. a turf scrubber is great for consuming phosphates fast which is the key to cyano.
adding flow is only effective if the cause is deadspots in the current allowing detritus to build and provide phosphates in a localized area. if the source is excess phosphates throughout the water column then you need to remove the phospahtes as a whole from the entire system not just move them around with more flow.
I would reccomend looking into building an algae scrubber it may help you out.
if thats not an optiuon look into phosphate sponges. which is not as cheap as a scrubber in the long run.