DE MH bulbs color?

[squidd]

No...Corals will grow just "fine" under 20K bulbs...
But most bulbs that have the "higher" PAR values ("more" growth potential) tend to have lower K ratings and more of the white/yellow visual coloration... Which actinics can "tint" back into the blues...
"IF" that's the look your going for...
Which brings us back to your setup (and original post)...Once we identify the bulbs you have...you may want to stay with them for "growth potential" and "colorize" the tank with supplemental actinic....

 

[mujtba]

I found I have 10K aqualine buske bulbs....
however, I have two 52W T5 blue actinics. But my tank looks yellow.. i want a more crisp white/blue color..
so the 14K will do it?

 

[squidd]

The AB 10Ks are actualy pretty high on the PAR scale but yes a bit on the "yellow" side coming in around 8K on the CCI (color correction index)
Fortunately the Phoenix 14K is right up there with it PAR wise and a much brighter, crisper white with tint of blue..
I think you'll be very happy with it...

 

[mujtba]

Does T5 lighting cause UV rays?:notsure:

 

[squidd]

:nope:

 

[mujtba]

ok but the DE MH do.. so let me ask you something.. do you think my corals and fish have cancer now?? :scared:
i noticed when i switched to MH from PC, i shocked some of my corals. none of them look healthy. I kept thinking it was because I didnt acclimate the corals to new lighting.. BUT do you think the UV rays is what made them weak? :notsure:

 

[squidd]

I doubt they have "cancer" ...more like a sunburn or heat stroke...
To which they will react negitively (light shock)
How long have you had the new lights on...It can take several weeks for them to adjust and recolor after shock like that...
But if they haven't compleatly "died" by now (turned to mush and melted away) they 'll pull through...
Still get the UV shield on there to keep from continued abuse and danger to "your" skin from working under an unprotected light...

 

[mujtba]

ok i ordered the shield..
do you think i should keep the MH off till the shields arrive?
also, can you plz email me some places with the: Phoenix 14K 250DE
mujtba@2trom.com

 

[squidd]

I wouldn't turn them off compleatly...just more photo shock (lack of light)...
They already have "some" UV protection from glass tank covers the bigger concern would be your hands/arms working in the tank...
Cut the lighting back to 4-6 hrs a day till the shields arrive and work in the tank when the lights are out...
You won't see "instant" recovery...it's gonna take a couple weeks for them to get "happy" again...
But everything will be OK...
OK...??

 

[mujtba]

sounds good... i hope... :nervous:
since my lighting is too intense for my softies.. do you think a 20K is better for me? isn't it less intense?
however I dont want my tank looking like actinics totally..
so what do you think? 20K has some white in it?

 

[squidd]

The CoralVue 20K bulbs are actually quite white and have 1/2 the par of the AB 10Ks...
Have you found the thread on MH bulb comparisons yet...?
Color pics of different bulbs on same tank so you can compare apple to apples...
Google search... "250 watt MH Bulb Comparison"

 

[mujtba]

so half the par is not good? more par, the better?
i see many results here:
http://www.draze.com/search/?type=we...b%20Comparison
which do you suggest to look at? :notsure:

 

[squidd]

Third one down with the pics...
It's on SE bulbs but the pic representation is accurate for DE as well...

 

[squidd]

Fifth one down is OK...it's on DE bulbs but it's several different tanks with different ballasts and who knows what the camera settings were...
So it's not "apples to apples"...

 

[tuningvis]

here is what you want to look at
http://metricksystem.com/chris/250wcolour/