coral keeper
Active Member
How big of a tank would you all recommend then?
Dedicated non-photosynthetic tank?
- Thread starter coral keeper
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paintballer768
Active Member
Hmm. This is a toughy, I would say something like 30-55 gallon with a higher gallonage rated skimmer.
coral keeper
Active Member
Originally Posted by paintballer768
http:///forum/post/2614468
Hmm. This is a toughy, I would say something like 30-55 gallon with a higher gallonage rated skimmer.
But if you'll need to constant drip phyto, the skimmer would be skimming it out. So I think a skimmer isn't a good idea.
http:///forum/post/2614468
Hmm. This is a toughy, I would say something like 30-55 gallon with a higher gallonage rated skimmer.
But if you'll need to constant drip phyto, the skimmer would be skimming it out. So I think a skimmer isn't a good idea.
coral keeper
Active Member
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang
http:///forum/post/2614244
I'm curious about water quality. How will you control the water quality in this tank? Small regular water changes will not control nutrient build-up IMO, especially with the almost constant drip that some of these corals require, and frequent, repeated, large scale water changes will be almost as detrimental. How will you prevent nutrient levels from building?
I will do 10% watcher changes daily and 10% = 757 ml x 30 days = 22.71 liters = 6 gallons a month. I'll have a fuge in the stand with some LR and chaeto. Chaeto will get rid of the extra nutrients and so will the water changes.
http:///forum/post/2614244
I'm curious about water quality. How will you control the water quality in this tank? Small regular water changes will not control nutrient build-up IMO, especially with the almost constant drip that some of these corals require, and frequent, repeated, large scale water changes will be almost as detrimental. How will you prevent nutrient levels from building?
I will do 10% watcher changes daily and 10% = 757 ml x 30 days = 22.71 liters = 6 gallons a month. I'll have a fuge in the stand with some LR and chaeto. Chaeto will get rid of the extra nutrients and so will the water changes.
coral keeper
Active Member
Originally Posted by ReefForBrains
http:///forum/post/2614261
Bad news if ya ask me. I know your excited, but the tank is just too prone for instability for such inhabitants as your intending.
Not poking at your reef-keeping abilities, it has bad news written all over it since you tech will NEVER be able to have stable tank conditions without a host of redundant equip. Auto top off would almost be manditory. Carefully measured and maintained constant feeding most likley through dosing pumps also to be in the list of manditory. On such small tank I would also say that Closed loop to displace volume would give more beifit and keep the DT space open.
Stability is what is paramount for such things as blue gorgs and carnations. They are both finiky and command stability. Even in larger tanks they can be full time jobs.
Your excitement is contagious, but I do think your barking at a project of headache and heartache. Money and effort in my oppinion at least would be better spend on a larger tank where stability would be far easier.
My auto top off system will be a water bottle with a cap and an air tube. I'm going to have a fuge under the stand with some chaeto and LR. Here is a quick drawing I made.
http:///forum/post/2614261
Bad news if ya ask me. I know your excited, but the tank is just too prone for instability for such inhabitants as your intending.
Not poking at your reef-keeping abilities, it has bad news written all over it since you tech will NEVER be able to have stable tank conditions without a host of redundant equip. Auto top off would almost be manditory. Carefully measured and maintained constant feeding most likley through dosing pumps also to be in the list of manditory. On such small tank I would also say that Closed loop to displace volume would give more beifit and keep the DT space open.
Stability is what is paramount for such things as blue gorgs and carnations. They are both finiky and command stability. Even in larger tanks they can be full time jobs.
Your excitement is contagious, but I do think your barking at a project of headache and heartache. Money and effort in my oppinion at least would be better spend on a larger tank where stability would be far easier.
My auto top off system will be a water bottle with a cap and an air tube. I'm going to have a fuge under the stand with some chaeto and LR. Here is a quick drawing I made.
coral keeper
Active Member
For the pump, I'm going to be using a 240 ghp pump with a ton of bendy straws stuck in it. Here are 2 quick videos of it. So, If Ill need to direct flow some where I'll bend the straw that way.
paintballer768
Active Member
Why would you constant drip phyto? Thats going to get expensive, and would no matter what raise the nitrates. There would always be organic matter in the water for the decaying process to begin. IMO, feed em all like twice daily with turker basters or anything like that, and be very very careful with excess, with the skimmer running to help eliminate the excess from the water.
coral keeper
Active Member
Originally Posted by paintballer768
http:///forum/post/2614702
Why would you constant drip phyto? Thats going to get expensive, and would no matter what raise the nitrates. There would always be organic matter in the water for the decaying process to begin. IMO, feed em all like twice daily with turker basters or anything like that, and be very very careful with excess, with the skimmer running to help eliminate the excess from the water.
Ok, thanks for the info!
http:///forum/post/2614702
Why would you constant drip phyto? Thats going to get expensive, and would no matter what raise the nitrates. There would always be organic matter in the water for the decaying process to begin. IMO, feed em all like twice daily with turker basters or anything like that, and be very very careful with excess, with the skimmer running to help eliminate the excess from the water.
Ok, thanks for the info!
A
alexmir
Guest
I would say go bare bottom and just siphon out the bottom every day, it would take out just a little water and you could consider that a water change, and if there was good flow over the rocks, you would get all the un eaten food.!
mx#28
Active Member
Originally Posted by paintballer768
http:///forum/post/2614702
Why would you constant drip phyto? Thats going to get expensive, and would no matter what raise the nitrates. There would always be organic matter in the water for the decaying process to begin. IMO, feed em all like twice daily with turker basters or anything like that, and be very very careful with excess, with the skimmer running to help eliminate the excess from the water.
Becuase, (depending on what Coral Keeper puts in the tank) many non-photosynthetic corals REQUIRE a constant supply of food. Think about it, would you turn your lights on for only a few minutes twice per day and expect a photosynthetic coral to live?
Coral Keeper, have you decided what you're going to try to keep?
http:///forum/post/2614702
Why would you constant drip phyto? Thats going to get expensive, and would no matter what raise the nitrates. There would always be organic matter in the water for the decaying process to begin. IMO, feed em all like twice daily with turker basters or anything like that, and be very very careful with excess, with the skimmer running to help eliminate the excess from the water.
Becuase, (depending on what Coral Keeper puts in the tank) many non-photosynthetic corals REQUIRE a constant supply of food. Think about it, would you turn your lights on for only a few minutes twice per day and expect a photosynthetic coral to live?
Coral Keeper, have you decided what you're going to try to keep?
coral keeper
Active Member
Originally Posted by MX#28
http:///forum/post/2615065
Becuase, (depending on what Coral Keeper puts in the tank) many non-photosynthetic corals REQUIRE a constant supply of food. Think about it, would you turn your lights on for only a few minutes twice per day and expect a photosynthetic coral to live?
Coral Keeper, have you decided what you're going to try to keep?
I'm thinking of Gorgonia pterogorgia, Menella sp, Diodogorgia nodulifera, and maybe a Muriceopsis flavida(I know its a photosynthetic species, how strong lighting do they need? Will a 10 watt PC light thats 50/50 work?), a few very nice colorful feather dusters?, and Maybe a carnation coral? What kind of corals would you suggest? How about an electric flame scallop? Will the 2 gallon tank be too small for the electric flame scallop? I know, my stock list is huge...
http:///forum/post/2615065
Becuase, (depending on what Coral Keeper puts in the tank) many non-photosynthetic corals REQUIRE a constant supply of food. Think about it, would you turn your lights on for only a few minutes twice per day and expect a photosynthetic coral to live?
Coral Keeper, have you decided what you're going to try to keep?
I'm thinking of Gorgonia pterogorgia, Menella sp, Diodogorgia nodulifera, and maybe a Muriceopsis flavida(I know its a photosynthetic species, how strong lighting do they need? Will a 10 watt PC light thats 50/50 work?), a few very nice colorful feather dusters?, and Maybe a carnation coral? What kind of corals would you suggest? How about an electric flame scallop? Will the 2 gallon tank be too small for the electric flame scallop? I know, my stock list is huge...
mx#28
Active Member
Originally Posted by Coral Keeper
http:///forum/post/2615240
I'm thinking of Gorgonia pterogorgia, Menella sp, Diodogorgia nodulifera, and maybe a Muriceopsis flavida(I know its a photosynthetic species, how strong lighting do they need? Will a 10 watt PC light thats 50/50 work?), a few very nice colorful feather dusters?, and Maybe a carnation coral? What kind of corals would you suggest? How about an electric flame scallop? Will the 2 gallon tank be too small for the electric flame scallop? I know, my stock list is huge...
I reccommend ditching the 2 photosynthetic gorgonians (because they require high lighting) and the carnation (because they are significantly more difficult to keep alive). Try Menella and Diodogorgia sp. They have similar care needs (zooplankton of fairly large size, good flow, low light, etc) and are easier than some other non-photo corals (they're still difficult, just easier than some others).
I would nix the flame scallop, too, becuase it will need seperate care that differs from the others and is also harder to keep.
I still think you have issues to solve with your tank setup, but I think you can design better when you choose your lovestock first.
http:///forum/post/2615240
I'm thinking of Gorgonia pterogorgia, Menella sp, Diodogorgia nodulifera, and maybe a Muriceopsis flavida(I know its a photosynthetic species, how strong lighting do they need? Will a 10 watt PC light thats 50/50 work?), a few very nice colorful feather dusters?, and Maybe a carnation coral? What kind of corals would you suggest? How about an electric flame scallop? Will the 2 gallon tank be too small for the electric flame scallop? I know, my stock list is huge...
I reccommend ditching the 2 photosynthetic gorgonians (because they require high lighting) and the carnation (because they are significantly more difficult to keep alive). Try Menella and Diodogorgia sp. They have similar care needs (zooplankton of fairly large size, good flow, low light, etc) and are easier than some other non-photo corals (they're still difficult, just easier than some others).
I would nix the flame scallop, too, becuase it will need seperate care that differs from the others and is also harder to keep.
I still think you have issues to solve with your tank setup, but I think you can design better when you choose your lovestock first.
coral keeper
Active Member
Ok, How about the feather dusters? What kind of zoo plankton do the gorgonians need? Is there any kind of gorgonian that will eat a species of phytoplankton called Nannochloropsis?
mx#28
Active Member
Originally Posted by Coral Keeper
http:///forum/post/2615336
Ok, How about the feather dusters? What kind of zoo plankton do the gorgonians need? Is there any kind of gorgonian that will eat a species of phytoplankton called Nannochloropsis?
Because there is less info on some of the non-photo corals, there is bound to be disagreement on their needs, but my opinion based on research and personal experience is that these types of gorgonians rely on zooplankton in the 50-800 micron size range. Significant (in amount of food and frequency) feedings of baby brine shrimp, cyclopseeze, rotifers, etc will do you well. I think Nannochloropsis is unneccesary for these gorgonians, except that you can use it to culture other things like rotifers or copepods.
The feather dusters may benefit from the phyto, but - IME, they will do fine with the zooplankton.
http:///forum/post/2615336
Ok, How about the feather dusters? What kind of zoo plankton do the gorgonians need? Is there any kind of gorgonian that will eat a species of phytoplankton called Nannochloropsis?
Because there is less info on some of the non-photo corals, there is bound to be disagreement on their needs, but my opinion based on research and personal experience is that these types of gorgonians rely on zooplankton in the 50-800 micron size range. Significant (in amount of food and frequency) feedings of baby brine shrimp, cyclopseeze, rotifers, etc will do you well. I think Nannochloropsis is unneccesary for these gorgonians, except that you can use it to culture other things like rotifers or copepods.
The feather dusters may benefit from the phyto, but - IME, they will do fine with the zooplankton.
coral keeper
Active Member
Ok, can you give me a list of zoo planktons please? Theres baby brine shrimp, rotifers, copepods, amphipods? ect? Is mysis shrimp counted as a zoo plankton? Thanks!
coral keeper
Active Member
How about a 10 gallon tank? I have two 10 gallon tanks laying around. Do you think its a much better idea doing a 10 gallon tank instead of a 2 gallon tank?
mx#28
Active Member
Originally Posted by Coral Keeper
http:///forum/post/2615480
Ok, can you give me a list of zoo planktons please? Theres baby brine shrimp, rotifers, copepods, amphipods? ect? Is mysis shrimp counted as a zoo plankton? Thanks!
Zoo = 'animal', Plankton = 'drifter'
In other words, zooplankton are animals that are unable to resist ocean currents. Same as phytoplankton are drifting plants and bacterioplankton is drifting bacteria. I obviously don't have a list of all zooplankton species - it would be rather large. Those three that I listed as well as commercially made mixtures - like Kent zoo-plex, reef chili (with phyto, too), etc - will work for the species you're going to keep.
http:///forum/post/2615480
Ok, can you give me a list of zoo planktons please? Theres baby brine shrimp, rotifers, copepods, amphipods? ect? Is mysis shrimp counted as a zoo plankton? Thanks!
Zoo = 'animal', Plankton = 'drifter'
In other words, zooplankton are animals that are unable to resist ocean currents. Same as phytoplankton are drifting plants and bacterioplankton is drifting bacteria. I obviously don't have a list of all zooplankton species - it would be rather large. Those three that I listed as well as commercially made mixtures - like Kent zoo-plex, reef chili (with phyto, too), etc - will work for the species you're going to keep.
mx#28
Active Member
Originally Posted by Coral Keeper
http:///forum/post/2615762
How about a 10 gallon tank? I have two 10 gallon tanks laying around. Do you think its a much better idea doing a 10 gallon tank instead of a 2 gallon tank?
Here's an idea for you. Use your 2 gallon aquarium, but add a large sump with a skimmer, macroalgea, etc. You could set the return pump on a timer or turn it on/off manually so that you could flood the small tank with food when it is isolated from the rest of the water. This would greatly increase the availability of food for the gorgonians per gallon, and then you could start the pump again and have that extra water as a buffer plus you'd have filtration.
http:///forum/post/2615762
How about a 10 gallon tank? I have two 10 gallon tanks laying around. Do you think its a much better idea doing a 10 gallon tank instead of a 2 gallon tank?
Here's an idea for you. Use your 2 gallon aquarium, but add a large sump with a skimmer, macroalgea, etc. You could set the return pump on a timer or turn it on/off manually so that you could flood the small tank with food when it is isolated from the rest of the water. This would greatly increase the availability of food for the gorgonians per gallon, and then you could start the pump again and have that extra water as a buffer plus you'd have filtration.
coral keeper
Active Member
Originally Posted by MX#28
http:///forum/post/2615905
Here's an idea for you. Use your 2 gallon aquarium, but add a large sump with a skimmer, macroalgea, etc. You could set the return pump on a timer or turn it on/off manually so that you could flood the small tank with food when it is isolated from the rest of the water. This would greatly increase the availability of food for the gorgonians per gallon, and then you could start the pump again and have that extra water as a buffer plus you'd have filtration.
Oh, Ok. So, is this what you were talking about? Set up the 2 gallon tank as the DT and the 10 gallon tank as a fuge/sump, add a skimmer, chaeto, and LR in the sump/fuge and when it comes to feeding time turn off the pump so water wont go into the sump/fuge and then flood the DT with food and after an hour or so turn everything back on and everything will be skimmed out? Is that what your pretty much talking about?
http:///forum/post/2615905
Here's an idea for you. Use your 2 gallon aquarium, but add a large sump with a skimmer, macroalgea, etc. You could set the return pump on a timer or turn it on/off manually so that you could flood the small tank with food when it is isolated from the rest of the water. This would greatly increase the availability of food for the gorgonians per gallon, and then you could start the pump again and have that extra water as a buffer plus you'd have filtration.
Oh, Ok. So, is this what you were talking about? Set up the 2 gallon tank as the DT and the 10 gallon tank as a fuge/sump, add a skimmer, chaeto, and LR in the sump/fuge and when it comes to feeding time turn off the pump so water wont go into the sump/fuge and then flood the DT with food and after an hour or so turn everything back on and everything will be skimmed out? Is that what your pretty much talking about?
mx#28
Active Member
Originally Posted by Coral Keeper
http:///forum/post/2615928
Oh, Ok. So, is this what you were talking about? Set up the 2 gallon tank as the DT and the 10 gallon tank as a fuge/sump, add a skimmer, chaeto, and LR in the sump/fuge and when it comes to feeding time turn off the pump so water wont go into the sump/fuge and then flood the DT with food and after an hour or so turn everything back on and everything will be skimmed out? Is that what your pretty much talking about?
Indeed. Although I would have at least a few pieces of LR in the display tank and I would make the sump as large as possible - at least 30 gallons. You've got the idea, though.
http:///forum/post/2615928
Oh, Ok. So, is this what you were talking about? Set up the 2 gallon tank as the DT and the 10 gallon tank as a fuge/sump, add a skimmer, chaeto, and LR in the sump/fuge and when it comes to feeding time turn off the pump so water wont go into the sump/fuge and then flood the DT with food and after an hour or so turn everything back on and everything will be skimmed out? Is that what your pretty much talking about?
Indeed. Although I would have at least a few pieces of LR in the display tank and I would make the sump as large as possible - at least 30 gallons. You've got the idea, though.