mrinelfrlz
Member
what do you have for the clean up crew?
discouraged. tank problems.
- Thread starter heartben
- Start date
heartben
Member
hah! i was waiting for this one. i have NOTHING right now.
i orderd some stuff off this site, i only got 10 turbos but im hoping if they can get anything done.. i will buy more for sure.
do you guys think i need to change my sand super badly or will it just take longer for the diatoms to go away?
thanks a million
-ben
i orderd some stuff off this site, i only got 10 turbos but im hoping if they can get anything done.. i will buy more for sure.
do you guys think i need to change my sand super badly or will it just take longer for the diatoms to go away?
thanks a million
-ben
mrinelfrlz
Member
by the way i honestly have just used LS in my DT but since i started my new sump/fug i used sand but not live sand and algae formed very fast on it
and from what ive learned is that LS has a bunch of benifical bacteria among other things in it to help the system
and from what ive learned is that LS has a bunch of benifical bacteria among other things in it to help the system
scubaguy
Member
If you do switch to sand you do not have to get LIVE sand Argonite sand would be fine also. It is a buffer for your tank, but you really need a clean up crew. How often to you feed your fish? You should only feed 3 to 4 times a week. If you are over feeding that is feeding the algea. You need at least 20 to 25 the turn over rate in your take. To figure this out see how much your filter is rate for GPH and any other powerheads. Add this all together that is your total tank GPH. Then this is what you need to strive for 1100 or 1375 GPH. Hope this helps out some.
srfisher17
Active Member
I have cycled tanks that never had a diatom problem; but my last one developed the crud after 6 weeks. It's a mystery to me; but some tanks just take longer to fully cycle than others.Your tank is only five weeks old; not old enough to really tell what your problems are; much less correct them all at once. I'm the world's most impatient person; but this hobby has taught me to have a little. Starting with the diatoms--a normal part of the cycle process. You can test for silicates; and, yes, there are removers that work. Other factors that can feed a diatom problem (which you really can't tell if you have yet) are inadequate water flow, phosphates and high nitrates. If you're using tap water, test that water for all this stuff as well. But give it some time before you rush out and get a lot of stuff you don't need. Once your tank has matured a but and fully cycled, you can clean out the diatoms and see if they reappear in any amount. Diatoms are ugly and frustrate new hobbiests; but its a solvable problem. Also, regarding changing sand: there is very little good bacteria in the water itself, so don't worry about dumping some of it...or rubbermaid totes make great temp water containers.
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by heartben
- scsi - if you do not use sand in the tank, what do you use? i have been using tap water. mostly because i dont have any containers that are good enough to transport water from the pet store.
im assuming the tap water is whats doing it then? perhaps? i do use a conditioner...
Alright! We've found the source of your problem.
You need to stop using tap water.
Before everyone jumps on me about how they use tap water this and they use tap water that, I will reiterate that the composition of tap water varies VASTLY by location. You may not be able to use tap water, but the guy two towns over may be able to just fine.
You are just unlucky enough to have tap water that's high in silicates and possibly/probably phosphates. Of course I don't know this for sure without test results on your water, but I'd bet money that this is your problem.
Water conditioners don't remove silicates, or the heavy metals that can cause you problems.
You need to invest in an RODI unit. Another path would be to purchase RODI water from an LFS, but you can't be sure they are changing their cartridges as they should. If you search the boards for RODI, you'll find several different places where you can get them for very good prices.
For your substrate, I prefer to use aragonite as a substrate. The reason why is that it buffers your water and helps maintain pH. If you do not use a calcerous substate, you will have to continually dose buffering chemicals into the water like sodium bicarbonate,etc to drive up alkalinity and pH. In short, it's harder to control pH in a system without lots of live rock and aragonite substrate. Crushed Coral will do the same thing but it has other problems.
- scsi - if you do not use sand in the tank, what do you use? i have been using tap water. mostly because i dont have any containers that are good enough to transport water from the pet store.
im assuming the tap water is whats doing it then? perhaps? i do use a conditioner...
Alright! We've found the source of your problem.
You need to stop using tap water.
Before everyone jumps on me about how they use tap water this and they use tap water that, I will reiterate that the composition of tap water varies VASTLY by location. You may not be able to use tap water, but the guy two towns over may be able to just fine.
You are just unlucky enough to have tap water that's high in silicates and possibly/probably phosphates. Of course I don't know this for sure without test results on your water, but I'd bet money that this is your problem.
Water conditioners don't remove silicates, or the heavy metals that can cause you problems.
You need to invest in an RODI unit. Another path would be to purchase RODI water from an LFS, but you can't be sure they are changing their cartridges as they should. If you search the boards for RODI, you'll find several different places where you can get them for very good prices.
For your substrate, I prefer to use aragonite as a substrate. The reason why is that it buffers your water and helps maintain pH. If you do not use a calcerous substate, you will have to continually dose buffering chemicals into the water like sodium bicarbonate,etc to drive up alkalinity and pH. In short, it's harder to control pH in a system without lots of live rock and aragonite substrate. Crushed Coral will do the same thing but it has other problems.
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by Cooqie
i use tap water and nothing happens when you add the salt to the water let it mix good and the salt whill kill whatever is in the tap water why wouldnt you use live sand when having corals?
We're not talking about pathogens, viruses, etc as the problem. While I am dubious that adding salt "sterilizes" the water, I know for sure that it does not remove silicates, phosphates, heavy metals like arsenic, lead, mercury, copper, floating particles of iron oxide, etc.
i use tap water and nothing happens when you add the salt to the water let it mix good and the salt whill kill whatever is in the tap water why wouldnt you use live sand when having corals?
We're not talking about pathogens, viruses, etc as the problem. While I am dubious that adding salt "sterilizes" the water, I know for sure that it does not remove silicates, phosphates, heavy metals like arsenic, lead, mercury, copper, floating particles of iron oxide, etc.
earlybird
Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
SiliCA and SiliCATES are not the same thing.
SiliCA is found in sand and SiliCATES feed diatom algae. Although I do not recommend using sand in saltwater tanks, particularly reefs, the sand is not what is causing your diatom blooms.
10-4 thanks for the info
SiliCA and SiliCATES are not the same thing.
SiliCA is found in sand and SiliCATES feed diatom algae. Although I do not recommend using sand in saltwater tanks, particularly reefs, the sand is not what is causing your diatom blooms.
10-4 thanks for the info
turningtim
Active Member
As usual SCSI is right on target. the sand isn't the issue. have seen many folks use it w/o issues! I also don't recommend it but......
Its the tap water plain and simple. Start using RO water and you'll see a big change! get rid if those test strips and get good test kits. Takes more time but is well worth the investment. LS out of a bag is not what your looking for. Some aquacultured sand is what you want. You want all the good micro infauna that helps a sand bed. The bacteria will colonize from the LR.
Heres an example. Just tested my well water for TDS. I have very good water but its on the hard side and it tested at 167ppm TDS (which isn't bad) and after my RO unit it tested at 4ppm.
As SCSI said its more about heavy metals and trAte and Phosphate.
Its the tap water plain and simple. Start using RO water and you'll see a big change! get rid if those test strips and get good test kits. Takes more time but is well worth the investment. LS out of a bag is not what your looking for. Some aquacultured sand is what you want. You want all the good micro infauna that helps a sand bed. The bacteria will colonize from the LR.
Heres an example. Just tested my well water for TDS. I have very good water but its on the hard side and it tested at 167ppm TDS (which isn't bad) and after my RO unit it tested at 4ppm.
As SCSI said its more about heavy metals and trAte and Phosphate.
heartben
Member
alright, so - heres the scoop. bought some LS - do i have to cycle the tank all over again? the bag say to rinse and i can put it in an "established" tank.
also, for the RO water, can i just do water changes... like, every other week or so, 5 gallons? so im replacing the tap with ro over time? do you think that would be ok?
also, i got some silicate remover ill be running in the meantime.
thanks everyone!
-ben
also, for the RO water, can i just do water changes... like, every other week or so, 5 gallons? so im replacing the tap with ro over time? do you think that would be ok?
also, i got some silicate remover ill be running in the meantime.
thanks everyone!
-ben
earlybird
Active Member
Yo What kind of sand did you get? Make sure you rinse it with salt water, it can even be your changed out water at your next water change. Your best bet would be to get all the sand out. Do you have a QT?
Just make sure you don't add any more tap water to the tank. Use RO for all top offs and water changes for the rest of your tanks life. Kinda sucks but worth it for sure.
Just make sure you don't add any more tap water to the tank. Use RO for all top offs and water changes for the rest of your tanks life. Kinda sucks but worth it for sure.
bbailey231
Member
Originally Posted by heartben
alright, so - heres the scoop. bought some LS - do i have to cycle the tank all over again? the bag say to rinse and i can put it in an "established" tank.
also, for the RO water, can i just do water changes... like, every other week or so, 5 gallons? so im replacing the tap with ro over time? do you think that would be ok?
also, i got some silicate remover ill be running in the meantime.
thanks everyone!
-ben
I totally agree with your tap water being your problem. Once I changed from tap to RO I have very minimal problems. For RO water here is what I do...I have 4 - 5 gallon containers...I go to walmart and fill them all up and use them when I need them. They have the water thingy where you can fill your own containers, that is great RO water and VERY inexpensive. I pay 1.66 for 5 gallons, not bad! If you are going to do weekly/bi-weekly water changes I would do at least 6 gallons a week or 12 bi-weekly. Make sure to mix it prior to the water change and let it mix with a powerhead in a container for a full day. Personally, I do a 20% water change every week.
You never did post your parameters. Do you have a test kit? If not you really should invest in one. I would get a red sea or salifert. DON'T get the test strips as they are very inaccurate. Also, invest in a refractometer. With a 55 gal it is going to cost some $ to get it set up the way you want and having good testing equipment even though it cost more in the beginning, it will save you $ in the long run.
Good luck with your tank! Get you a clean up crew...it will help some too
alright, so - heres the scoop. bought some LS - do i have to cycle the tank all over again? the bag say to rinse and i can put it in an "established" tank.
also, for the RO water, can i just do water changes... like, every other week or so, 5 gallons? so im replacing the tap with ro over time? do you think that would be ok?
also, i got some silicate remover ill be running in the meantime.
thanks everyone!
-ben
I totally agree with your tap water being your problem. Once I changed from tap to RO I have very minimal problems. For RO water here is what I do...I have 4 - 5 gallon containers...I go to walmart and fill them all up and use them when I need them. They have the water thingy where you can fill your own containers, that is great RO water and VERY inexpensive. I pay 1.66 for 5 gallons, not bad! If you are going to do weekly/bi-weekly water changes I would do at least 6 gallons a week or 12 bi-weekly. Make sure to mix it prior to the water change and let it mix with a powerhead in a container for a full day. Personally, I do a 20% water change every week.
You never did post your parameters. Do you have a test kit? If not you really should invest in one. I would get a red sea or salifert. DON'T get the test strips as they are very inaccurate. Also, invest in a refractometer. With a 55 gal it is going to cost some $ to get it set up the way you want and having good testing equipment even though it cost more in the beginning, it will save you $ in the long run.
Good luck with your tank! Get you a clean up crew...it will help some too
heartben
Member
"ocean direct " caribsea live sand. 40 pounds of it. im going to try to get 8-10 pounds of well established sand to mix in...
i plan on taking all of the silca sand out before putting this sand in.
i have a 10 gallon tank thats been running for probably 10 days... also tap water though. i have a 20L with nothing in it.
i will use ro from now on. do i have to add anything to RO water?
thanks!
i plan on taking all of the silca sand out before putting this sand in.
i have a 10 gallon tank thats been running for probably 10 days... also tap water though. i have a 20L with nothing in it.
i will use ro from now on. do i have to add anything to RO water?
thanks!
bbailey231
Member
Originally Posted by heartben
"ocean direct " caribsea live sand. 40 pounds of it. im going to try to get 8-10 pounds of well established sand to mix in...
i plan on taking all of the silca sand out before putting this sand in.
i have a 10 gallon tank thats been running for probably 10 days... also tap water though. i have a 20L with nothing in it.
i will use ro from now on. do i have to add anything to RO water?
thanks!
The only thing I do with my ro water is make sure the water parameters match the parameters in my tank before doing the water change. I match the temp, salinity and PH...others may check other stuff too.
"ocean direct " caribsea live sand. 40 pounds of it. im going to try to get 8-10 pounds of well established sand to mix in...
i plan on taking all of the silca sand out before putting this sand in.
i have a 10 gallon tank thats been running for probably 10 days... also tap water though. i have a 20L with nothing in it.
i will use ro from now on. do i have to add anything to RO water?
thanks!
The only thing I do with my ro water is make sure the water parameters match the parameters in my tank before doing the water change. I match the temp, salinity and PH...others may check other stuff too.