DIY Bow Stand/Canopy
- Thread starter pfitz44
- Start date
scsinet
Active Member
If you have a table saw, you set the blade to a depth of just a little less than the thickness of the wood. For example, if you use 3/4" cabinet grade ply (assuming it's really 3/4 exactly), set the blade to 11/16 or so, and place numerous cuts across the back of the wood vertically (in relation to how it will be when in position; perpendicular to the intended direction of curve). One cut about every inch like this will let it flex, and the more frequently you place the cuts the smoother the curve will be.
You could also try soaking the wood, laying the frame of the stand on it's back, laying the wood on top, and weighting it to slowly coax it into the proper shape, but I've never tried that so I have no idea how good it will work, especially with plywood. It'll probably take days or weeks and a lot of soaking.
BTW, expect to go through at least one piece to breakage!
You could also try soaking the wood, laying the frame of the stand on it's back, laying the wood on top, and weighting it to slowly coax it into the proper shape, but I've never tried that so I have no idea how good it will work, especially with plywood. It'll probably take days or weeks and a lot of soaking.
BTW, expect to go through at least one piece to breakage!
phixer
Active Member
Thats the process, its called kerfing. If you want a good result you should build a jig for the shape you want to shape the panel too, its not hard just take a look at some woodworking books. The thinner the material the easier it is to bend i.e veneer. As mentioned you will need to make perpendicular cuts along the back of the plywood , soak the wood with water and then weigh it down with bricks enough to mold to the contour of the jig. Let it set for about a week, and keep it wet for the first two days. The wood will shape to the contour of the jig.
It might be easier to build a convex frame and use single hardwood vertical slats attached around it instead.
It might be easier to build a convex frame and use single hardwood vertical slats attached around it instead.
pfitz44
Active Member
Ok.. thanks guys.. youve given me some ideas...
Im here at work drawing up the plans for the stand. Im getting to the bottom, and a question arose. Does anyone put plywood as the bottom piece? Or just have it stop on 2x4, with plywood ontop of that?
Will post plans when i get home from work
Im here at work drawing up the plans for the stand. Im getting to the bottom, and a question arose. Does anyone put plywood as the bottom piece? Or just have it stop on 2x4, with plywood ontop of that?
Will post plans when i get home from work
turningtim
Active Member
Rather than kerfing, soaking or steam bending try this. Make a jig of a couple of pcs of mdf stacked on top of one another. If you want a 3" pc use 4-3/4" MDF. Make a convex side and a concave side that fit togather. Buy some 1/8" luan ply and a 1/8" pc of the hardwood ply of the stand. Cut them into 3" strips. Get some SLOW setting wood glue (titebond makes it I think). Start by placing the back pc in the jig and glue both sides of the next and set in the jig. If you want a 3/4" board you'll need 5 of the luan strips and 1 of the hardwood. Glue front and back of all the pcs and place in the jig and have some strong clamps and clamp all together to formm the curve. Let it set for 24 hrs + and you'll have the bow. Then use the jig to cut the ends at 90 degrees to the rest of the stand. Use more than you think you need and this will act as a lube when to tighten the clamps. Cover the good side of the hardwood ply with masking tape so it doesn't get messy with glue. depending on how hard the curve is you may need to soak the ply in hotwater for a bit but at 1/8" it won't take that long and then glue.
JMO
HTH
Tim
JMO
HTH
Tim
hot883
Active Member
All of the above listed ways will help you out. Hey, I have a 250w MH retro fit kit that would be perfect in there. Ha! Interested?; bcool831@pldi.net
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/210539/metal-halide-retro-fit-250w-coralvue
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/210539/metal-halide-retro-fit-250w-coralvue
fuppets
Member
Spaeking of 4X4's. I was just thinking about rebuilding the stand for the 180 I just bought. The stand I got with it is made of 2X4's. I am worried that those will just b too weak for a 180. So I was wondering if I should re-build this stand with 4x4's in place of the 2x4's What do you guys/gals think?
phixer
Active Member
If you go with 2x4s you will have to use more of them spaced closer together. The stand would be just as strong possibly stronger if you used more 2x4s. If you used the same spacing but with 4x4s it would be stronger and more stable but cost slightly more. Id go with the 4x4s only because Im conservative and feel its cheap insurance. Either way remember to give it a good coat of Spar or Polyurethane.