diy overflow!!!!!!!!! check it out!!!!

jbair

Member
I'm just setting up my tank, and have not brought pumps yet. But if I understand right 1-1.5" will give me more flow that 2- 1", or 2- 1.25" will do the same. Buy the way, what do you have for your return lines to the tank?
 

isistius

Active Member
jbair- i think you're right about the size of the pipe, but maybe some with more knowledge can chime in on this. my return pump is a quietone 6000 with 1" vinyl tube splitting into 2 - 3/4"(i think) locline
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Isistius
hey reef-
any word from the acrylic company?
not yet I am going to give them a call.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by GrouperGenius
...poop out a little blue cookie....Is that a Maine thing?

I think its more of a me thing. I dont think I have ever heard anyone else say it. maybe I heard it once somewhere, but I cant remember where. It just sounds funny.
 

isistius

Active Member
Originally Posted by drpaul84
any updates?
other then it's completely silent and works flawlessly? nope. nothing bad to report.
 

isistius

Active Member
just make sure you use pipe large enough for the flow you want, and carefully plan out how deep you want it to sit in your tank. also, put it together before you glue it to make sure you have it exactly how you want it.
 

colotl

Member
Isistius,
I prime it by closing the ball valve near the drain. Then I fill the vent pipe with water just before it overflows. I then cap the vent pipe. Last thing I do is open the ball valve and the siphon begins. For the last 2 weeks I have turned the power off and on to make sure the system will re-siphon and it has!!! Today I decided to take the cap of the vent tube and I lost complete siphon. You pictures show the overflow working without this cap. I can't. Can you help me get it to work with out the cap on the vent.
Thanks
 

isistius

Active Member
does your cap over the vent pipe have a hole in it for the air to escape? there MUST be a hole. the cap is only to help silence the pipes. i never even put caps on mine and they were completely silent. nevertheless, the air must have a way to escape. if you look very carefully at the 2nd pic i posted, there is a 1/8" tube that is attached (crazyglued) to the top of the pipework. at the end of that, i use a check valve to prevent back syphoning of air to break the syphon. but that is where i remove the air from the pipes to begin the syphon.
lemme know if this helps
 

colotl

Member
My caps are completely sealed so the vents are not allowing air out. The tube I have on top is just like yours. That is also closed. I only used that once to suck air out when I first primed the system. It has self started before many times but know it doesn't. I will pull the cap of the vents and see what happens again. Strange???
 

colotl

Member
I took the cap out and it kept it's siphon. It wouldn't do that before??? I ended up putting the cap back. Having it off or with a 1/8 hole gave a gurgling sound. It also slowed down the flowrate to the sump. I guess sealing the vent will give you full siphon?
 

isistius

Active Member
yes, but then the air won't vent out which could possibly cause it to travel back the other way and stop the syphon. it may gurgle, but the cap will minimize the sound, and over time the gurgle will stop. mine gurgled at first, then after a few weeks - comepletely silent
 

hal000

Member
i also posted pics https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/297623/pics-diy-pvc-overflow of my setups. with these overflows about a week ago.
a couple of things to help you out. the plans you have are a little old!
a few things have been modified. to make these run better. if you click link you'll see what i mean.
1. the siphon runs better when the bottom elbows in the tank are 2 - 6 inches higher, then the bottom elbows outside the tank.
2. the use of an elbow on your overflow pipe. ( instead of that straight pipe)
will help siphon run better, will quiet it down 99 percent more, help control water level, and help siphon start up faster.
3.on your vent pipe, when using an end cap. a hole must be drilled in center of endcap(as stated above). trust me it will still quiet it down. to help even more put some filter floss in end of pipe befor putting endcap on. use enough, so you dont loose it down pipe, but not to much to clog airflow.
4.ok somtimes with these systems,overkill on pipe size, really makes them run unstable. as they can suck air an slow down, or stop all together.
I.e. a 400 gallon tank would run fine with 2x 1 1/4 inch pipe. in any tanks 125 and under. i would only use 2x 1 inch notthing more.
in this type of system i would always use 2x just incase 1 did stop for some reason, the other will handle the flow!
if overkill is being used then 1 overflow would run more stable than 2. you'll just have to worry about it stopping.
you guys need to trust me! i have been building these for over 5 years,and have done of over 80 tanks with these overflows around the area, over the years. And i have learned for my mistakes.
there has been more mods made to this system, a double and a quad.
i will try to find these plans, and post them and a more up to date plan of the
single pipe, even if i have to fix it myself.
HOPE this helps
 

isistius

Active Member
hal000 - very nice. i'm sure this will help out a lot of people that are looking into building these. thanks for the additional information.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by hal000
4.ok somtimes with these systems,overkill on pipe size, really makes them run unstable. as they can suck air an slow down, or stop all together.
I.e. a 400 gallon tank would run fine with 2x 1 1/4 inch pipe. in any tanks 125 and under. i would only use 2x 1 inch notthing more.
in this type of system i would always use 2x just incase 1 did stop for some reason, the other will handle the flow!
if overkill is being used then 1 overflow would run more stable than 2. you'll just have to worry about it stopping.
a question for you on this (as a point of clarification for others) I notice your mentioning tank size here but not return pump size. do you not think return pump speed should be the defining point of overflow design?
now as an observation from my point of view. it doesnt matter what size tank it is. flow out of the tank must closely match flow into the tank (better that the outflow capabilities are a little higher) but not so much higher as to cause the stalling hal000 mentioned. with underpowered return pumps the flow isnt enough to force air through the overflow system (this is one reason drilled tanks are referable) if you get a return pump that closly matches what your overflow design size is capable of handleing this will cure any stalling. dont use a 2 inch overflow size and a maxijet 1200 as a return pump..... its going to stall.
 

isistius

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
a question for you on this (as a point of clarification for others) I notice your mentioning tank size here but not return pump size. do you not think return pump speed should be the defining point of overflow design?
now as an observation from my point of view. it doesnt matter what size tank it is. flow out of the tank must closely match flow into the tank (better that the outflow capabilities are a little higher) but not so much higher as to cause the stalling hal000 mentioned. with underpowered return pumps the flow isnt enough to force air through the overflow system (this is one reason drilled tanks are referable) if you get a return pump that closly matches what your overflow design size is capable of handleing this will cure any stalling. dont use a 2 inch overflow size and a maxijet 1200 as a return pump..... its going to stall.
i would certainly hope that is taken into consideration, especially if you like learning from other peoples mistakes - like me.
 

colotl

Member
Thanks guys for all the info. This is a great system better the overflow boxes. I will deal with the gurgle and see what happens.
Thanks
 
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