Do you quarantine

fishy7

Active Member
I do not qt anything.
Dip all incoming corals.
I keep my water at near perfect levels0 trites/5 trates/0 ammonia/ph 8.2/SG 1.026/temp 79/alk 8/phos 0/CA 460.
Feed them high quality food soaked in garlic
Acclimate 3+ for all incoming and add when the lights are out
Keep 2 large cleaner shimp
My tangs have had ick, clowns have had brook and parasites in general which I have not added any chemicals to the tank.
This system works for me no need to fix if not broken.
 

renogaw

Active Member
Originally Posted by ninjamini
So if you do QT your corals and/or fish what kinda tank, filter, light? How long do you QT for?

there's a great post in the disease forum on why you should QT and how. its's stickied. PLEASE save yourself and your fish a lot of headaches and follow it.
 

saltn00b

Active Member
i have a 29g tall with a HOB penguin biowheel. this gets the job done fine. the point is to attack ick from all sides to give it no hope. like i said before, after the cyst stage (trophont?) on the fish that you can see, it bursts and swims to the substrate to grow in the next part of the life cycle (tomont?) . if there is no Calcerous material it can not live for that next stage, so its a dead end. that is why no Sand and Rock. only PVC or Faux Corals for hiding spots. that is why it is occasionally possible to introduce Ick into your system from a new coral, it could have burrowed onto the rock or skeleton of the coral.
the other attack front is Hypo, this causes the salt like cysts to burst, because at that part of the life cycle, they are succeptible to low salinity.
i also run a UV for the triple threat, this is the only UV i own.
 

ninjamini

Active Member
Originally Posted by renogaw
there's a great post in the disease forum on why you should QT and how. its's stickied. PLEASE save yourself and your fish a lot of headaches and follow it.

Thanx!
 

ninjamini

Active Member
What about Clams and inverts? Would you qt a clam for several weeks without adequate lights?
What about coral?
 

shogun323

Active Member
I used to adopt Whitey's "survival of the fittest" method until Ick eventually took all my fish. I am now in at the end of my 2nd week of running fishless in my 50 gallon display tank. Needless to say, my 10 gallon setup from Walmart is about to payoff.
 

teen

Active Member
i honestly think its the lfs that kill most of the fish and introduce parasites. thats why i will never buy a fish from any of the lfs by me. i trust places like swf.com and other places that obtain fish directly from the ocean/breeders.
 

renogaw

Active Member
but they still store the fish... they still ship the fish... most lfs's will get the fish from someone who got it from the ocean or from a breeder as well. the only difference between swf and a lfs is you can see the fish at the lfs.
 

albfishin'

Member
Originally Posted by shogun323
I used to adopt Whitey's "survival of the fittest" method until Ick eventually took all my fish. I am now in at the end of my 2nd week of running fishless in my 50 gallon display tank. Needless to say, my 10 gallon setup from Walmart is about to payoff.
I like shogun, just lost all of my fish in my dt due to an ich outbreak. I just purchased an eclipse 12 gal for my qt and will qt all fish from now on. (It's too big of an investment not too.)
Just be careful using a qt with regard to the type of fish you are qting and what size of a qt you are setting up. Example, don't want to qt an adult hippo tang in a 12 gal tank to add to your display in 4 wks. Will probably develop ich due to not enough swimming room, etc.
I would also say to research the type of fish you are purchasing. If the species is not very hardy, you probably want to qt them. If they are a hardier fish, you may get away with adding them directly to the tank.
 

hatessushi

Active Member
Originally Posted by Anonome
Not trying to start a war....IMO, you my friend are playing with fire. You have been lucky, and that is where I will leave it.
Totally agree, quarantine is a must since this is not the ocean but a closed system. Introduce something unknown to your tank including a fish from a so called LFS quarantined and you take a chance of having to post in the Disease and Treatment forum for help.
 

30-xtra high

Active Member
i will be qting everything from now on, justy had major ich outbreak due to a new cinnamon, i have a 10gallon completely empty except with a maxijet600 for airation and to spread around the medication
 

hatessushi

Active Member
Some people posted that they don't QT because they can't afford it. Well IMO those people should not be salt water fish keepers. You can get a 10 gallon tank for about $30 w/filter. If you keep a DT that is salt water and can't afford $30 give it up. Of course to each his own and you can do what you want.
 

shogun323

Active Member
Originally Posted by HatesSushi
Some people posted that they don't QT because they can't afford it. Well IMO those people should not be salt water fish keepers. You can get a 10 gallon tank for about $30 w/filter. If you keep a DT that is salt water and can't afford $30 give it up. Of course to each his own and you can do what you want.
This is a great point. Truly you can't afford not to quarantine. I lost a total of $200 in fish. That is a considerable amount more than the $30 it costs for a QT tank.
 

catawaba

Active Member
I QT all fish for 6 weeks. (Sometimes I 'cheat' and put in DT after 4 weeks)
I do the "Reef Dip" on all corals.
Crabs/snails/shrimp get a 4 hour drip acclimation and then on into DT.
 

shogun323

Active Member
Originally Posted by Catawaba
I do the "Reef Dip" on all corals.
I am not familiar with this. What is a Reef Dip?
 

catawaba

Active Member
It's a product from SeaChem...it's an iodinated product.
SWF sells it....it's cheap and gives me a bit of peace of mind.
 

catawaba

Active Member
Mostly my peace of mind. Reported to help various hitchikers 'exit'.
Supposed to work against various protozoans, bacterias, fungi, (even though everyone needs a 'fun guy')
 
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