Does 1mm on a hole in glass make a difference?
- Thread starter nietzsche
- Start date
nietzsche
Active Member
Originally Posted by MoneyMan
probably... if not, you can always use the hole saw to grind an extra 0.55mm.
The hole* is going to be 1mm bigger or so bigger than the bulkhead I believe:
Part#: 175106 Size: 1" Hole Size: 1 3/4" [44.45] This bulkhead is threaded on the side that is flanged (where you screw in a strainer) and slip on the back side (where you can glue in a PVC pipe).
probably... if not, you can always use the hole saw to grind an extra 0.55mm.
The hole* is going to be 1mm bigger or so bigger than the bulkhead I believe:
Part#: 175106 Size: 1" Hole Size: 1 3/4" [44.45] This bulkhead is threaded on the side that is flanged (where you screw in a strainer) and slip on the back side (where you can glue in a PVC pipe).
reefforbrains
Active Member
If you build your own bulkhead its MUCH smaller. On the small tanks I would go for as small of possible that can keep your ID what your looking for.
A good clean fit will snug itself down no problem. It the hole is a little large its ok as long as the flange can seat itself clean and flat.
A good clean fit will snug itself down no problem. It the hole is a little large its ok as long as the flange can seat itself clean and flat.
sharkbait9
Active Member
Originally Posted by nietzsche
just placed the order on the diamond hole saw from online for 10 bucks from hong kong i'm going to start drilling tanks
I think a 45mm should fit a 1.0 inch bulkhead
I ordered my bulkheads from him too, they work great just keep spraying a lot of water on it.
I ordered the 45 mm hole bit to do my 1" bulks and had no problem, drill straight and add a little force in the beginning at an angle to start the groove. Once you have a deep groove start to straight it out [bring the bit flush with the surface of the glass] hold very slight pressure on the glass keeping it wet at all times.
The bit will do the work for you, I can't stress it enough add very little pressure or once it goes threw you will follow the bit down and crack the glass.
just placed the order on the diamond hole saw from online for 10 bucks from hong kong i'm going to start drilling tanks
I think a 45mm should fit a 1.0 inch bulkhead
I ordered my bulkheads from him too, they work great just keep spraying a lot of water on it.
I ordered the 45 mm hole bit to do my 1" bulks and had no problem, drill straight and add a little force in the beginning at an angle to start the groove. Once you have a deep groove start to straight it out [bring the bit flush with the surface of the glass] hold very slight pressure on the glass keeping it wet at all times.
The bit will do the work for you, I can't stress it enough add very little pressure or once it goes threw you will follow the bit down and crack the glass.
nietzsche
Active Member
thanks a lot for the advice sharkbait9 and reefforbrains. i'm not sure how long itll take to receive it but i already purchased the bit yesterday. so i just drill at an angle until it makes a groove and then make the bit flush with the glass and drill down? i'm going to try not to add any pressure and let the bit do this on its own. i think for now im going to just drill two holes and add on one add a strainer to keep snails, fish, and other things out
Originally Posted by sharkbait9
I ordered my bulkheads from him too, they work great just keep spraying a lot of water on it.
I ordered the 45 mm hole bit to do my 1" bulks and had no problem, drill straight and add a little force in the beginning at an angle to start the groove. Once you have a deep groove start to straight it out [bring the bit flush with the surface of the glass] hold very slight pressure on the glass keeping it wet at all times.
The bit will do the work for you, I can't stress it enough add very little pressure or once it goes threw you will follow the bit down and crack the glass.
Originally Posted by sharkbait9
I ordered my bulkheads from him too, they work great just keep spraying a lot of water on it.
I ordered the 45 mm hole bit to do my 1" bulks and had no problem, drill straight and add a little force in the beginning at an angle to start the groove. Once you have a deep groove start to straight it out [bring the bit flush with the surface of the glass] hold very slight pressure on the glass keeping it wet at all times.
The bit will do the work for you, I can't stress it enough add very little pressure or once it goes threw you will follow the bit down and crack the glass.
sharkbait9
Active Member
Originally Posted by nietzsche
thanks a lot for the advice sharkbait9 and reefforbrains. i'm not sure how long itll take to receive it but i already purchased the bit yesterday. so i just drill at an angle until it makes a groove and then make the bit flush with the glass and drill down? i'm going to try not to add any pressure and let the bit do this on its own. i think for now im going to just drill two holes and add on one add a strainer to keep snails, fish, and other things out
The seller is pretty quick to get them to you and they are really good bits, I still have the originals and have etched more then 20 tanks. Keep the bits cool and wet and light pressure and they’ll last you a long time.
Yes, you hold it at 80 degree angle and let the bit etch a groove into the glass. Make sure you hold the drill with both hands while your “water boy” keeps water on the bit and glass or the bit will break free and travel on you. Leaving etch marks *scratches* all over the surface of the glass and then your buffering the scratches out and that’s no fun.
Once the bit has made a groove in the glass slowly bring the drill/bit up to a 90 degree angle and hold, using a ever so slight pressure on the drill.
As the bit starts to reach the other side of the glass be ready for the bit to “grab”. As you reach the other side slow the RPM’S down so the bit doesn’t “grab” and crack the glass or leave chips on the edge of the hole you just etched out.
Also place tape on the opposite side your drilling, if you don’t you run the risk of the plug dropping down and cracking or chipping the other side of the tank panel.
As you are etching the hole out you will get a build up of glass resin or dust that will cake up, always rinse that out of the groove and off the bit.
When you are getting ready to etch the holes out, take a level and run a line down the back of the tank. Set your bulkheads center of the line and trace a hole from the inside of the bulkheads center on the line so in the end all holes are equal and not lopsided or crooked. That way if power goes out one hole is not draining more water then the other and you will not have a harder time trying to figure out tank drain water to sump loss equaling less of a chance of over flowing the sump in a power outage.
thanks a lot for the advice sharkbait9 and reefforbrains. i'm not sure how long itll take to receive it but i already purchased the bit yesterday. so i just drill at an angle until it makes a groove and then make the bit flush with the glass and drill down? i'm going to try not to add any pressure and let the bit do this on its own. i think for now im going to just drill two holes and add on one add a strainer to keep snails, fish, and other things out
The seller is pretty quick to get them to you and they are really good bits, I still have the originals and have etched more then 20 tanks. Keep the bits cool and wet and light pressure and they’ll last you a long time.
Yes, you hold it at 80 degree angle and let the bit etch a groove into the glass. Make sure you hold the drill with both hands while your “water boy” keeps water on the bit and glass or the bit will break free and travel on you. Leaving etch marks *scratches* all over the surface of the glass and then your buffering the scratches out and that’s no fun.
Once the bit has made a groove in the glass slowly bring the drill/bit up to a 90 degree angle and hold, using a ever so slight pressure on the drill.
As the bit starts to reach the other side of the glass be ready for the bit to “grab”. As you reach the other side slow the RPM’S down so the bit doesn’t “grab” and crack the glass or leave chips on the edge of the hole you just etched out.
Also place tape on the opposite side your drilling, if you don’t you run the risk of the plug dropping down and cracking or chipping the other side of the tank panel.
As you are etching the hole out you will get a build up of glass resin or dust that will cake up, always rinse that out of the groove and off the bit.
When you are getting ready to etch the holes out, take a level and run a line down the back of the tank. Set your bulkheads center of the line and trace a hole from the inside of the bulkheads center on the line so in the end all holes are equal and not lopsided or crooked. That way if power goes out one hole is not draining more water then the other and you will not have a harder time trying to figure out tank drain water to sump loss equaling less of a chance of over flowing the sump in a power outage.
nietzsche
Active Member
Thanks, I think I got it. All I need to do is wait for the bit now
Originally Posted by sharkbait9
The seller is pretty quick to get them to you and they are really good bits, I still have the originals and have etched more then 20 tanks. Keep the bits cool and wet and light pressure and they’ll last you a long time.
Yes, you hold it at 80 degree angle and let the bit etch a groove into the glass. Make sure you hold the drill with both hands while your “water boy” keeps water on the bit and glass or the bit will break free and travel on you. Leaving etch marks *scratches* all over the surface of the glass and then your buffering the scratches out and that’s no fun.
Once the bit has made a groove in the glass slowly bring the drill/bit up to a 90 degree angle and hold, using a ever so slight pressure on the drill.
As the bit starts to reach the other side of the glass be ready for the bit to “grab”. As you reach the other side slow the RPM’S down so the bit doesn’t “grab” and crack the glass or leave chips on the edge of the hole you just etched out.
Also place tape on the opposite side your drilling, if you don’t you run the risk of the plug dropping down and cracking or chipping the other side of the tank panel.
As you are etching the hole out you will get a build up of glass resin or dust that will cake up, always rinse that out of the groove and off the bit.
When you are getting ready to etch the holes out, take a level and run a line down the back of the tank. Set your bulkheads center of the line and trace a hole from the inside of the bulkheads center on the line so in the end all holes are equal and not lopsided or crooked. That way if power goes out one hole is not draining more water then the other and you will not have a harder time trying to figure out tank drain water to sump loss equaling less of a chance of over flowing the sump in a power outage.
Originally Posted by sharkbait9
The seller is pretty quick to get them to you and they are really good bits, I still have the originals and have etched more then 20 tanks. Keep the bits cool and wet and light pressure and they’ll last you a long time.
Yes, you hold it at 80 degree angle and let the bit etch a groove into the glass. Make sure you hold the drill with both hands while your “water boy” keeps water on the bit and glass or the bit will break free and travel on you. Leaving etch marks *scratches* all over the surface of the glass and then your buffering the scratches out and that’s no fun.
Once the bit has made a groove in the glass slowly bring the drill/bit up to a 90 degree angle and hold, using a ever so slight pressure on the drill.
As the bit starts to reach the other side of the glass be ready for the bit to “grab”. As you reach the other side slow the RPM’S down so the bit doesn’t “grab” and crack the glass or leave chips on the edge of the hole you just etched out.
Also place tape on the opposite side your drilling, if you don’t you run the risk of the plug dropping down and cracking or chipping the other side of the tank panel.
As you are etching the hole out you will get a build up of glass resin or dust that will cake up, always rinse that out of the groove and off the bit.
When you are getting ready to etch the holes out, take a level and run a line down the back of the tank. Set your bulkheads center of the line and trace a hole from the inside of the bulkheads center on the line so in the end all holes are equal and not lopsided or crooked. That way if power goes out one hole is not draining more water then the other and you will not have a harder time trying to figure out tank drain water to sump loss equaling less of a chance of over flowing the sump in a power outage.
