Don't Do This

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Depending on how you define overfeeding. In a reef tank, you are feeding a lot of animals, and you are also attempting to encourage the proliferation of animals, micro organisms. I think it is good to feed 3x a day, in small quantities that can be eaten up by your tank inhabitants without food becoming waste. Fish forage all day long for food, and many species constantly graze. We should attempt to simulate that to whatever extent possible. If that's not possible, then it is more likely a problem with the way your system is set up, rather than too much food. FO tanks definitely struggle with this since it is the set up least like the ocean/reef.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
The more fish you have the more you feel you have to feed the more chance of overfeeding. Keep your fish population reasonable
 

nakadoc

Member
Originally Posted by reefmate75
http:///forum/post/2627768
another thing to look at is where is the tank set up, i had the same problem and though i might have had the lights on to long or i was over feeding also but nothin ghelped, as it turned out my tank was getting sunlight threw my window for about 2 hours a day and thats when my tank would get very green but in the morning it would be cleared up and i was baffled, i covered the window and BAM in 3 days the green water was gone (water chages didnt help a bit eather, so if your tank is getting sunlight i would cover that up first and see if that fixs the problem befor all the water changes, if your tank isnt getting sunlight start the water changes
Not true, this was a myth. Anthony Calfo did the research and found this method to be beneficial to your tank and it DOES NOT cause algae out breaks. There are lots of people out there with tanks/ponds to big to supplement lighting so they utilize skylights. This also helps keep your utility bill down. Book of Coral Propagation; sixth edition, Anthony Calfo.
 

nordy

Active Member
Originally Posted by nakadoc
http:///forum/post/2630745
Not true, this was a myth. Anthony Calfo did the research and found this method to be beneficial to your tank and it DOES NOT cause algae out breaks. There are lots of people out there with tanks/ponds to big to supplement lighting so they utilize skylights. This also helps keep your utility bill down. Book of Coral Propagation; sixth edition, Anthony Calfo.
Not to disagree with an expert, but to share my personal experience: my reef tank is in a south facing room and got a lot of supplemental light through my windows. I thought that might be happening but wasn't really sure until I noticed a few of my corals leaning toward the sunlit side of the room. It was definate phototropic response (I hope that's the correct 50 cent phrase!) to natural light. At the time I was really struggling with algae in my new (then) reef tank. I put really dark shades on the two windows in that room and it made a huge difference in the amount of algae in my tank. Of course there are other factors affecting the growth of my algae, like timer schedule for my T5 lights, using RO/DI water exclusively, focusing on not overfeeding,but reducing the naturallight exposure sure seemed to make a difference for my tank.
 

notsonoob

Member
Sunlight grows algea in a tank is a falisy.
The algea grows from the food source, that is why changing your light patterns will never douse it.
Your problem is that you have a decent size food source for the algea to grow.
Take away the food source and it doesn't matter how much light you put in the tank. I sometimes run my MH's for 11-13 hours with no ill effects. Before I ran a fuge I could run my MH's for anytime and my tank was full of algae.
I've run my cheato for about 8 months now and started feeding every day again. However, my trates are zero while before they struggled to get below 15-20. I also spot feed for my inverts, who go crazy for it. What do I get out of it? I nice big chunk of dark green cheato for my copods to build a neighborhood.
The only drawback would be heat from any direct sunlight.
 

nakadoc

Member
Every new setup will go through some type of algae bloom and if parameters are in check then algae will diminish in a very short time. If you are feeding foods filled with phosphates then you are just feeding your algae and it will grow out of control. Frozen and flake foods are known to be loaded with phosphates. I make my own food with a mixture of frozen and fresh. I put both frozen and fresh food in a strainer and leave it for about 30min and let all the water strain then I blend.
My setup is right next to a east facing window which I leave open to let in natural sunlight. No algae blooms at all, I feed twice a day in the morning and evening. Nitrates and phosphates are always ZERO! My biggest problem is battling p.h during the winter, easy fix but it gets cold here in Nebraska.
 

dfei

New Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
http:///forum/post/2627611
WOW Thats a lot !!!!

Start frequent water changes with new Salt water heated and mixed to the proper salinity of your tanks salinity. 30% Change wouldnt be out of the question to start, then 15% every 3 days for a couple of weeks. Test your water perameters check for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Once a day is plenty to feed your fish, and no more food than they can consume inside of 2 minutes. Some people even feed every other day. Make sure your pH and alkalinity are at proper levels.
I'm back. I did a 30% water change using the water from the fish store,changed to a PureFlo filter pad, added an Algone packet and changed feeding to 1x/day. Levels are good, tank is worse! Just a beautiful GREEN! Losing sight of the contents.
 

dfei

New Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
http:///forum/post/2627753
Right, if the tank is that cloudy then check your water readings. Post your ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH, SG, and temp. Pre-mix your water for at least 24-48 hours. If the PH, SG, and temp match your display EXACTLY then you can do 50% changes. Don't add all of the water right back in. Add some, then let wait for a bit, then add more. Watch your equipment. Don't let anything run dry or the heating element of the heater to be out of water. BTW, Welcome to the boards!! How long has this tank been set up?
Ammonia-0, Nitrite/Nitrate-0, PH 8.2, Temp-can't see anymore,but cool, SG 30, Phos-0.5 (little high). I did the water change, little at a time. Not too much equip, just the filter. The tank was started April 1, cycled after 1 month, then I added the fish. (Thanks for the welcome note..you all are great!). Thinking of getting another filter??? Have a biowheel good for 75 gal (mine is 65). Tank is greener everyday! Changing the filter pads 2x/day, they're dirty!
 

dfei

New Member
Originally Posted by reefmate75
http:///forum/post/2627768
another thing to look at is where is the tank set up, i had the same problem and though i might have had the lights on to long or i was over feeding also but nothin ghelped, as it turned out my tank was getting sunlight threw my window for about 2 hours a day and thats when my tank would get very green but in the morning it would be cleared up and i was baffled, i covered the window and BAM in 3 days the green water was gone (water chages didnt help a bit eather, so if your tank is getting sunlight i would cover that up first and see if that fixs the problem befor all the water changes, if your tank isnt getting sunlight start the water changes
I have a bright room but no direct sun. I shut all the verticals to make sure. I changed the light hours to 8/day. I don't know if it's a reason, but I just realized that my pink/black cucumber is gone. Don't know where cuz I can't see in. Been missing for 7 days..just when the green started to get real bad. Any ideas?
 

dfei

New Member
Originally Posted by NOTSONOOB
http:///forum/post/2631085
Sunlight grows algea in a tank is a falisy.
The algea grows from the food source, that is why changing your light patterns will never douse it.
Your problem is that you have a decent size food source for the algea to grow.
Take away the food source and it doesn't matter how much light you put in the tank. I sometimes run my MH's for 11-13 hours with no ill effects. Before I ran a fuge I could run my MH's for anytime and my tank was full of algae.
I've run my cheato for about 8 months now and started feeding every day again. However, my trates are zero while before they struggled to get below 15-20. I also spot feed for my inverts, who go crazy for it. What do I get out of it? I nice big chunk of dark green cheato for my copods to build a neighborhood.
The only drawback would be heat from any direct sunlight.
I try to be so careful with feeding, just a little at a time and once one pellet is refused, the feeding ceases, usually 2 minutes or so... once a day, early morning. I'm sorry, but I'm really new to this hobby and the board, but what is MH?
I just realized my pink cucumber is missing, possibly buried by the stand storm my clowns like to cause. Maybe it's the decay? I'm lost...
 

dfei

New Member
Originally Posted by reefmate75
http:///forum/post/2627770
or you could just add a UV....that will clear it up pretty fast haha (i have one for sell 30 watt)
UV to kill algae?? but if it's not algae?? Even after the 30% water change, it's getting worse. As my pink cucumber disappeared a week ago, do you know if it could be decaying and how long would that take? Would my water be green or is algae the only answer? Water change done Sun but today the tank is worse. Losing site of everything.
 

dfei

New Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2629169
The more fish you have the more you feel you have to feed the more chance of overfeeding. Keep your fish population reasonable
3 green chromis, 2 black/white damsels, 2 tomato clowns, 2 choc chip stars, 3 urchins, can't see the snails, but there were about 4. 65 gal, that's my totals. Good number? I never wanted a crowded tank. I can barely see any of them now.
 

dfei

New Member
Originally Posted by nakadoc
http:///forum/post/2631494
Every new setup will go through some type of algae bloom and if parameters are in check then algae will diminish in a very short time. If you are feeding foods filled with phosphates then you are just feeding your algae and it will grow out of control. Frozen and flake foods are known to be loaded with phosphates. I make my own food with a mixture of frozen and fresh. I put both frozen and fresh food in a strainer and leave it for about 30min and let all the water strain then I blend.
My setup is right next to a east facing window which I leave open to let in natural sunlight. No algae blooms at all, I feed twice a day in the morning and evening. Nitrates and phosphates are always ZERO! My biggest problem is battling p.h during the winter, easy fix but it gets cold here in Nebraska.
I was feeding only the pellets but the little damsels seemed to have a hard time with them so I added flake. The only frozen I use is krill and I break off tiny pieces every other day and just about hand feed the chocolate chip stars (2). My hats off to you, as I could not do my own food blend.
Levels are all good and although I have a bright room, no direct sun (that's south Fla. sun too!)
 
I have been dealing with huge cyrano problems and high nitrates. My skimmer malfuntioned and syphoned my tank. It killed my skimmer. I have been operating with just the filter and everything is going MUCH better. My fish are happier, healthier and my cyrano is gone! I don't even need to test to know that my nitrates are lower. I was thinking I was overfeeding but now I know I wasn't. When my skimmer burned up my filter stopped too because the surge was tripped. So my filter was stopped for a day or two without my knowledge. After a day or two with the filter only... my tank looks GREAT! Better than ever! DAMN skimmer! Don't buy a coralife!
 
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